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3.0 vs. 3.2 injector removal. Is it similar?

I know CIS vs. Motronic injectors are different but is the removel/reinstall process similar (plastic sleeves, o-rings,etc)? I am familiar with 3.0 and am going to help my brother with his 3.2. I searched but couldn't find anything. Thanks.

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Old 02-20-2006, 08:31 AM
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I suspected an immediate response but then realized that perhaps not many folks are familiar with this on 3.0 and a 3.2. So for all those 3.2 guys who are wondering, the 3.0 injectors are a slip fit with an o-ring at the base and the fuel line threads into the top. The o-ring keeps the injector in place.
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:22 AM
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The 3.2 injectors are descriptively the same. It takes mechanical (leverage) assist to remove the 3.0's, and I suspect the 3.2's will also require some assist (I've never removed a 3.2 injector).
Old 02-20-2006, 12:09 PM
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Thanks. So the interface between injector mount and injector is similar?
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Old 02-20-2006, 12:29 PM
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Are we talking about a 3.2 Motronic? If so yes they are different.

Some of the differences - Motronic has a fuel rail and o-rings instead of individual tubes, the rail holds the injector in with another o-ring in the intake manifold. No special tools required for removal.
Old 02-20-2006, 12:39 PM
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What is the removal process then? Remove the rail and then they pull out like an SC?
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Old 02-20-2006, 12:54 PM
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Just did it this morning. Loosen the rail. Metal clips hold the injector in to the rail so they must be removed. Connector wires are also held on with wire clips so carefully remove these with a small screwdriver. Have friend hold rail up and out of the way then pull on injector. Some of mine were tough and required working it back and forth a bit.
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Old 02-20-2006, 12:58 PM
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ok,
I have the bentley manual in front of me and looking at their step by step on injector removal
they say the hard lines both fore and aft of the fuel rail need to be removed first
but some folks are saying they only removed the two bolts holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
I am gong to be doing this with the engine in the car
one more question
don't I need to cover the holes where the injectors are plugged in while they are out of the car?
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:27 PM
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I just did this. You can remove the two bolts holding the rails to get them out, the problem is in re-installing them you'll want to have the rail also off the pressure regulator on the driver side. I found it to be a lot easier to install and you wont have any undo pressure on the ends of the injectors.

Had mine sent to Witchhunter.com and they looked amazing when done. Highly recommended.
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Old 12-09-2007, 04:47 AM
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cool.
I am taking them to the witch hunter equivalent out here.
went and saw their shop thursday. everything done in house
I can drop them off monday and pick them up tuesday
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/
Old 12-09-2007, 05:35 AM
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I am wondering
do I need to cover the hole where the injectors are removed from?
I do don't I?
what should I use to cover them
I will have the injectors out for a couple days while they are cleaned and flow tested
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/
Old 12-09-2007, 08:23 PM
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It really depends on your garage, if it gets a lot of dust, bugs, critters in it, you might want to plug the holes etc. Also, when you do get ready to remove them, make sure you get your air blow gun to blow any sand, crud, etc. away from around the fuel injector intake area, kind of like when removing the spark plugs on a lot of cars. It keeps the crap from falling into the open holes. When I pulled mine, I used a set of rubber plugs that I had made for this task. Good luck!!
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:14 AM
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how did you make the plugs?
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/
Old 12-10-2007, 08:17 AM
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Hi Paul, I had a bunch of rubber plugs that I screwed a bolt into for an easy grip handle. They were from a/c components and such. You don't have to really push them in very far, just enough to seal the holes. You can even use plugs made from a paper towel, or pretty much anything else you have at hand, just don't push them in so far that they fall into the holes.
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 12-10-2007, 08:37 AM
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cool
I was thinking I should do something like that
thanks a million
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/
Old 12-10-2007, 08:39 AM
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When you get ready to pull the injectors, just make sure that you have all of the bolts and secure clips off, and try to pull straight up on the rail. I did find it much easier to loosen the fuel rail from the supply lines. You will see when you are doing this that you might be able to use something for leverage to help pull the rails or injectors. Do you have a Bentley Book? If so, it has a really nice write up on this. Good luck!!
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 12-10-2007, 08:57 AM
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I have the bentley manual open to that page as we speak.
but the weather is against me today
cold and rainy so i won't be able to get to it today
I have read that some folks remove and replace with out loosening from the supply lines
bentley book says to though
I think I will when I do it
but there is gas spillage when you loosen them right?
I will need plenty of rags handy to catch the spill
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1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses.
http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/
Old 12-10-2007, 09:03 AM
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Yes you will need a couple of shop towels or rags to catch the gas, but it in not a killing amount that will come out. I did find it easier to do it just how the Bentley shows, that way you are not putting undue pressure or stress on any of the other components. One thing to watch for, on the drivers side, when you are loosening the fuel rail fitting, it is very easy to knock of the big vacuum line from the plastic "Y" shaped tee on that side. I know because I did it once on mine, it really ran like crap, wouldn't idle right coughed and sputtered a lot. I shut it down and got the mirror and light on that side and saw that I had knocked the hose loose there. To prevent it from happening again, I installed hose clamps on all the fittings on that "Y" connector.
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 12-10-2007, 10:08 AM
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Question to 3.2 Cab that will be helpful to paulgtr as well.

What is the best way to clean in and around the injector hole before re-installation? I am waiting on a fuel line so I have only installed one side. In but in looking at the other side i noticed residue and crud where the injector sits. Can I spray carb cleaner or just set the injector and dont bother??
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Old 12-10-2007, 01:11 PM
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Hi, I have used various types of carb cleaner/ starting fluid on a rolled piece of a shop towel. It will cut through the crud and deposits in the actual injector hole. I have used one of the spray cleaners on the surface areas around the injector holes, but with my plugs in place, so none of the crap falls or gets blown into the intake area. I have also used some of my gun cleaning stuff, I have a big bore, nylon bristle brush and an equal size felt barrel swab, they work great on cleaning and lubing the injector ports. You can be creative with your approach, but the bottom line is, you don't want foreign objects to get in the ports. Also when re-seating the injectors and the fuel rails, I use a very small amount of engine oil to lubricate the new o-rings, so they slide on easier, and don't roll off from where they are supposed to be. Some might say that you have to use some special type of silicone or other type of lube, but I have always used just a very fine coating of motor oil. If I can be of any assistance, don't hesitate to contact me. Good luck, Tony.

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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 12-10-2007, 02:15 PM
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