Who already convert to 993 windshield, please help. - Page 2

RoninLB · 12-30-2007, 04:52 PM

911 PPG is much less $ than Sigla. Superman says 911 PPG is less likely to crack from road debris. No info on 964 glass.

I used 911 Sigla because the top band is wider than PPG.

The glass floats in the frame and can be kicked out from inside in case you're stuck in there after a crash. It must also be centered upon install. I imagine it'll crack at a corner if it's glued in?

3 guys makes the install easier although some pelicanheads have done it solo. I had to remove the new glass 2x to get it correct.

I used black dum dum on bottom of frame and sides to help prevent the glass shifting from center. So far so good after 20k miles.

I had small rust spots in lower frame.

I also drilled a hole in lower right of frame for glass antenna wire and plug. It's easy.

Dennis Kalma · Dennis Kalma's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

The windshield is held in with a big gasket. Do NOT let any shop touch it that thinks you need the adhesive sealant. There should not be any glue used at all. The gasket does the job, unless some PO allowed some dummy to use adhesive. This is the before photo. Damn deer.

Just a couple of notes to this, the big rubber gasket is indeed correct for earlier cars, I gather from various reports that the genuine Porsche gasket is better and seals better than the OEM gaskets. Also the manual specifies to use sealing compound around the corners and the upper edge, ostensibly placed using a caulking gun with a thin flat tip.

My major interest is the people who have used the glued in 993 windscreen, I have not seen photo's (but would love to) as it uses an inner and outer frame and a bonding agent/adhesive. Apparently it will work with the later flange (I have an '89) and would probably offer a bit better sealing and maybe even a bit of added chassis rigidity....

...now I just need a heated version....

Dennis

rnln · 12-30-2007, 10:57 PM

Tsunamiboy ,
Do you know that source of the window and seal you used?

RideShoot&Drink,
thanks for the offer. I affraid shipping a glass windshield might be a hassle. Let me do some more research to see what should I do. Again, thanks RideShoot&Drink.

Anyone know if cab's and coupe's are the same?

milt,
I read that thread more than once. That why I replied with question if you have done it yet so I can get some hints from you. What kind of trouble did you foresee?
No, not $600 but $1,3xx total was the quote, and I doubt that if the parts are OEM. Most of shop use after market unless you request to use OEM. As I wrote up there, most of my previous cars cost between $100 and $150, include an old MB with a giant front WS. I agree, $600 is way too much and I got a quote for twice that much.

spyderman,
I would, if I have the option. How about the seal? Did he replace your seal?

How to for 911 WS:
To take off your current ws, just push it from the inside?
To install the new 911 glass, setup all seal, moulding metal piece, and glass ws before align them into the car?
Did I get it correct guys?

If I decided to stay with 911 ws, do I need to replace my seal or just the glass ws is enough?

For 993 WS, I don't know yet.

Zeke · 12-31-2007, 07:23 AM

I did not do it and neither is Glenn on the green car you saw.

There is a lot of misinformation here. What about someone who says there is a diff between official Porsche and OEM seals? Or that a OEM glass with antenna and shading is the same as a $120 replacement?

Gluing in is not the end of the world. Maybe not glue the entire perimeter, but some is OK IMHO. It's just a bi!ch to get off the channel. There is substantial proof that these windshields will fly out in an impact and the glass installers are hep to that. They want to use glue for the to reduce liability. If you need to kick out a glass, believe me, you will be able to kick any out with the adrenalin in an emergency. And, they glue the seal to the frame, not the glass to the seal (in my observation anyway). So it should still come out with that kind of localized force. (You will not be trying to save your glass if you're kicking it. I would suggest right at the mirror.)

jhubs · jhubs's Garage

INHO, No matter what windshield you use or who puts it in...glue it in. If it has to be replaced in 6 days or 6 years, a new seal will be needed anyway...just glue it and avoid possible water problems in the cab and save your carpets and possible rust issues.

Jerry

rcwaldo · 12-31-2007, 10:48 AM

As I understand it, the 993 used bonded glass to add torsional stiffness. I agree with others here who recommend bonding it into place. Makes sense.

rnln · 12-31-2007, 10:59 AM

Thanks milt,

Hi Chris,
just trying to understand... if I bond the glass or seal into the frame, how do I get it out when it need to be replaced? body work required?

RoninLB · 12-31-2007, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnln

How to for 911 WS:
To take off your current ws, just push it from the inside?
To install the new 911 glass, setup all seal, molding metal piece, and glass ws before align them into the car?
Did I get it correct guys?

If I decided to stay with 911 ws, do I need to replace my seal or just the glass ws is enough?

only what I did

A new razor blade used to slice the rubber seal at the molding so I could remove the molding without bending. Removing the molding removes tension on the rubber etc.

Before mounting new rubber and molding on new glass I assembled molding and laid it on glass to confirm molding is shaped properly. If it's bent and installed that way there is a problem that can't be easily fixed.

Dish or laundry soap and water as lube. Keep a squirt bottle around so you have it available to help center the glass and rubber in the frame. I used Tide.

my personal install used dum dum as stated in my above post.

rnln · 04:07 PM

thanks roninlb

Ionizer · 01-06-2008, 09:46 AM

My WS and seal just seems to fall in to place. Will the metall molding expand the seal and hold the WS in place?

My molding is missing and I dont want it anyway. Is it possible to replace the molding with f.ex. a pice of wire pushed into the rubber seal?

And finaly, is there any good way to test that the WS is attached firm enough? I don't want it to fall out when I use the break.

RoninLB · 01-07-2008, 01:27 PM

My WS and seal just seems to fall in to place.

--------- the WS is designed to be kicked out from inside in a car crash. It has much clearance in the WS frame. Maybe your WS fell to the bottom and has a gap at the top and top corners?

Will the metall molding expand the seal and hold the WS in place?

--------- the molding adds tension to the rubber seal helping keep the WS in place. The WS has to be removed and molding placed in rubber seal Before WS install.

My molding is missing and I dont want it anyway. Is it possible to replace the molding with f.ex. a pice of wire pushed into the rubber seal?

--------- I do not know. I have not read about anyone doing this.

And finaly, is there any good way to test that the WS is attached firm enough? I don't want it to fall out when I use the break.

----------- If no molding I figure the WS is loose. Some pelican
members use the 1990 WS seal that does not use a molding.

Formerly Steve Wilkinson · 01-07-2008, 01:57 PM

Don't know what year it started and whether 993s fall into it, but modern windshields are part of the passive-protection system in cars with passenger-side airbags, which is why they are carefully and inextricably glued in place. The passenger airbag expands upward out of its cubby with considerable initial force, in many cases, and the windshield deflects it toward the passenger. There's no possible way you can kick the windshield out of a modern car. If you can, somebody screwed up installing it. There are numerous DOT regs regarding windshield installation these days.