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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 85
Emission, Just finished what you are attempting to do. First one same as everyone has been saying. Penetrating oil and heat with with nut still on the threads and a drift. If the ball joint is to be replaced "go with the heat". I replaced the ball joints, strut inserts and t-rods after 30+ years it must need it. First was a Bi***. The second worked very easy with the large C-clamp and a socket on the back side, without heat. Go Think!!! Every one may be different. Stay patient it will come out. PS. Get new ones form our sponser.

Old 01-11-2008, 05:43 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Acworth, GA
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As Superman says. It's like a tie rod end. You can whack, pickle fork, c-clamp yourself to death. A few sharp whacks to the HOUSING of what ever pin you are tyring to loosen will work wonders. Perhaps even a combination-pressure with clamp and tap the side of the housing.
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Ray
'88 Carrera, '81 SC, BMW R1200C, BMW R75/5, Ducati S2R Monster, '70 Karmann Ghia
Old 01-12-2008, 04:35 AM
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One of mine came out after using PB blaster, heat and a lot of pounding.

Other one wouldn't budge. Tried soaking and hammering on it for a few days in a row. Finally had to drill it out. What a pain.

Good luck.
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Old 01-12-2008, 06:55 AM
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Not a huge number of options for this sort of thing. Pick the one you like or try em all - but its the car that decides which one works...
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Old 01-12-2008, 08:16 AM
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When I re-did the suspension on my SC the pins came right out; they were coated with anti-seize by someone. Needed a small sledge and a 2x4 to separate the ball joint from the strut.
I thought that the pins weren't to be re-used?
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'91 964 3.3 Turbo
Port matched, SC cams, K27/K29 turbo, Roush Performance custom headers w/Tial MV-S dual wastegates, Rarlyl8 muffler, LWFW, GT2 clutch & PP, BL wur, factory RS shifter, RS mounts, FVD timing mod, Big Reds, H&R Coilovers, ESB spring plates- 210 lb
Old 01-12-2008, 10:31 AM
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"by someone [smart]."

We all want to do that when we install...
Old 01-12-2008, 10:59 AM
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Well, I got them out.

I beat the crap out of them (both!) with a 4# sledge for about ten minutes per side. They didn't move, and my hand ached. So, I drove over to AutoZone and picked-up a "2 Jaw-5 Ton Puller" for about $30.

Of course, I couldn't get clean access without pulling the calipers and my brake deflectors off.

I put the nuts back on to ensure the puller wouldn't slip off. With several cranks under high tension... BANG! They popped out.

There was a scare with one of the pins. The puller bent the pin to the point where it nearly wouldn't make it out of the hole. That would have sucked.

I coated the new pins with anti-seize and tapped them cleanly into place.





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Old 01-14-2008, 07:49 AM
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Excellent! That's the same type puller that I wound up using

Old 01-14-2008, 09:17 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #28 (permalink)
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