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can someone please show pics of a Dynomax on SSI's. leaning towards doing this but cannot find a shop that agrees with me.
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Anything with Dynomax will have to be custom fabricated. Look to Post #32 on this topic for pictures. It took my local muffler shop about 2 hours to fabricate and custom mount this muffler. Is it really worth paying $1000 dollars for a muffler that's "supposed to be" a bolt on item? The Dynomax can be purchased for less than $200, and installed with parts for ~$150. I would suggest the Dynomax Welded version instead of the Stainless Steel version. I've blown out the baffles of 2 different SS models, but I run my car at redline all day at the track!
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I suspect the ends of the SSI headers may have to be modified (as in, cut off) to fit well. If you don't mod the ends of the SSIs, it's going to be very tough to bend & weld pipes to mate with the muffler?
Patrick, I'm surprised you have problems with the baffles breaking. Do you think it is because your muffler plumbed in the opposite direction of flow on the bottom muffler in/out openings? |
It's not that big a deal to any decent muffler shop. DO NOT alter the SSI's, just have some custom pipes made to fit. Still FAR cheaper than something thats supposed to be a bolt on. Look at the pictures I have posted. It's not that complex!
With the Dynomax, yes of course I have the proper direction of flow. Apparently the harmonic resonation of the flat six is far more destructive than that of a 4 or V8. This I found out after breaking the second SS Muffler. The Welded version is much stronger than the SS Model. If I was just using for the street, it would be fine. Extended track use has taken it's toll! |
Good (relief)... wasn't about to alter those SSI's.
Also is the welded version 17231? If so it seems this is smaller (14 in as opposed to 20 in SS 17276). |
Go with the 17515. Same dimensions as the 17276. Much tougher construction, better flow, but perhaps just a touch louder... All that said, this muffler is much smaller and lighter than the stock OEM muffler. You actually see more of the stock muffler than the Dynomax muffler installed...
Let me know how it goes! |
Dynomax 2-2 mufflers that are potential candidates
Super Turbo 17725 flowing all directions- i've seen this used with a 3.6 with good results (fitment to B&B headers, but do not know HP results). But obviously you can see the HP rating is not so good http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224166123.jpg UltraFlo Stainless 17276 that Patrick has- I also have one of these on the shelf for my future potential use http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224166301.jpg Sturdier UltraFlo welded (17231) muffler that Patrick recommends in lieu of the SS polished model http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224166345.jpg |
Kevin~
My recommendation is the 17515, not the 17231! |
thanks for all replies. problem i see with 17626/17515 is the 20 inch body (I'm guessing 25 inches total) since the SSI flanges are only 23 inches apart (center).
Looks like I'm leaning towards a 74 Bursch (prefer the sound over any HP gains... yeah I know that sounds stupid). any feedback on this? |
Sorry Patrick, didn't mean to "put words in your mouth" I figured the 17231 would be best because of dimensions like WIL84911 said. And that is also why I thought mods to the SSI's would be a possibility. Patrick's installation was obviously easier for the shop to fabricate because they had so much more room to work with when fabricating their own header extension/secondary plumbing from the shorty OBX headers to the muffler.
Also, I can't see a reason not to go with the 17231 since it's smaller (lighter) and has nearly the same high capacity for horsepower- much unlike the Super Turbo flows-any-direction 17725. I'm kind of kicking myself for not previously noticing the 17231! I gotta ask one last question. Patrick, don't you think your muffler blowouts could be possibly be caused by the one of the flow directions being reversed on your installation? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224251578.jpg |
I have one of those Bursch creations if you'd like me to shoot some pictures of it. You're right that it does sound quite good. The nice thing about the Bursch is if the muffler needs replacing, it's a simple universal muffler that a shop can cut out and replace with one of similar dimensions.
I intended to put the Bursch on my car with some old headers similar to the OBX. I think mine were Triad. The fitment was terrible -headers weren't even close to aligning with the Bursch- so I decided to install something else. |
KTL yes please if you could provide pics that would be great. Still undecided here. Thanks.
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I did a magnaflow with a set of B & B headers - It sounded great - but the B & B Headers - no matter what the muffler produced a nice buzz at 2900 rpms - they were loud too.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=241196&highlight=muffle r The magnaflows are quality mufflers IMHO - and I have broken my share of them (and yes Kevin, I had the flow correct) Something about the 3.4 that runs some heat into the system (or could be the way I drive :) |
Partick, I saw the video of your car on youtube revving it a few times. You have any videos of you driving around from outside and under hard acceleration.
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That muffler is really two mufflers stuck together in one cam. why not just start a muffler right at the collector on each side and cut down on the length of the run. Could even bring the tail pipes together at the center. Or, would run them out like the factory did with megaphones. I do very much like how he hid the second tail pipe on the passenger side. |
that might also remove the sharp curve in the pipes for the muffler shown
gases don't "like" to turn corners... |
KTL thanks for the pics - looks good. Already went with Ben's gen 5 muffler 2/1.
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Thats a question I have looked for an answer to myself. |
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