A Photo Diary of a top-end rebuild. Or, The Tale of a one-armed rebuild.

[Jeff Alton]

Wayne,

I think the choice of an impact wrench to remove the bolts was the culprit....

Rob,

You are doing good, keep at it!

Cheers

[Dixie]

Thanks for the interest y’all. To be honest, I almost deleted the thread this morning. I was thinking no one would be interested in a plain vanilla refresh…

[Dixie]

Originally Posted by wilke3169

" Although she is a very nice lady it won't be long before she tires of the sights, sounds, and smells associated with said project. "

Y'all just don't realize how sweet a Southern Belle can be…

She’s put up with end tables that were really V8 engine blocks. She’s had a dishwasher ruined by “some idiot” washing engine parts in it. (On the plus side, they did come out squeaky clean.) She’s grown accustomed to having three or more vehicles in residence. And she no longer thinks it’s odd knowing so much about carbs, EFI, gear ratios, tire compounds, and more.

She has now reached a new plateau. She said that since the 911 is down, I could take her Jag to the track! God love her. I need to buy her some new jewelry or somethin’

[Johnb911]

subscribed

[Hoffmanmotors]

subscribed as well, i have my engine on the stand to do the lower studs but wonder if i should do guides as well. My car has 90k as well so i will follow this thread to help me make up my mind.

[01sport]

subscribed

[paulgtr]

good luck with it
I am building up the courage to try an engine drop too...

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by mca

I am in the same position with my SC motor. I am using about just under 1 quart of oil per 250 miles (although I do have some serious valve cover bolt leakage).

I am an obvious noob ... what happens when a valve looses a head? Will it result in a more expensive rebuild?

Craig:

What happens? You can look forward to this.

[Dixie]

Today’s goal is to get the engine out and on a stand. Easier than it sounds…. I had to raise the rear of the car to stupid heights before the engine would clear. After ten minutes of making sure everything was clear, I rolled it out.



Next task was separating the engine and trans. Now I’ve heard horror stories about getting the pivot pin out. So in preperation, I spent last week sourcing bolts, nuts, and what-not to deal with this arduous task. Amazingly (and luckily) the shaft slipped right out. It took hardly any effort at all. As you can see in the following photo, I tugged it up with a screwdriver, and pulled it out by hand.



Looks like the original throw out arm and shaft. What do you think?

[Dixie]

Over the last two decades my 911 has not seen a lot of repairs. Just oil changes and what not. Why’s that good? Because there’s little to defornicate. Why’s this bad? Because most things are due to be replaced... Here’s an example. This looks like the original rubber center clutch. It’s about .005 shy of hitting the rivets. Time for a new clutch as well as head work…



Finally, after many hours, it’s on the stand. Too bad it didn’t progress as fast as this post makes it appear.



That's it for today.

[Joe Bob]

When pulling the heat exchangers and exhaust off....do your homework on the nut removal. They snap easily...there are MANY threads on it but you can always ask me via phone for my $.02 worth. The snapped studs are a BIOTCH to get out of the heads...

Also....a new clutch, pressure and TO is a good idea no matter what it looks like.....even though that rubber center one looks good...%^B.....

Sachs Power units are my recomendation.

[Mitch Leland]

Rob,

I was so worried about jacking the car high enough to remove the engine that I designed and made these fixtures that bolt up to the hubs. I borrowed two engine hoist, actually most people were happy to get rid of them since most of the time they're under foot anyway. This gave me complete control and I didn't have to worry about removing the valance or bumper for additional clearance.

I would send them to anyone that needed them, but the cost of shipping is probably about the same as to make them. Mine are probably too heavy for what they have to do, but at least I know the car isn't going anywhere while they're doing their job.

[dagriff]

Originally Posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts

For those who have jabbed me in the past for removing the engine without the transmission - on older cars, the CV joint bolts can be easily stripped. I did this on a car once, and it took me about 30 hours to get them off after that (I have better tools for this now).

-Wayne

Wayne, "Older cars"
Can you be a bit more specific?
Any pre-removal procedures that may lessen the risk ?
Bugger, another thing to keep me awake at night .....!

[nyne11]

Originally Posted by Mitch Leland

Rob,

I was so worried about jacking the car high enough to remove the engine that I designed and made these fixtures that bolt up to the hubs. I borrowed two engine hoist, actually most people were happy to get rid of them since most of the time they're under foot anyway. This gave me complete control and I didn't have to worry about removing the valance or bumper for additional clearance.

I would send them to anyone that needed them, but the cost of shipping is probably about the same as to make them. Mine are probably too heavy for what they have to do, but at least I know the car isn't going anywhere while they're doing their job.

Mitch..........I take it that shot is of the motor going back in.....not on it's way out...it looks brand new!!

[K9Torro]

Sub'ed

T

[Mitch Leland]

Dave,

Ya, you caught me... Actually it's a clean up job, new clutch and "while I was there" items. The clutch was so torn up so bad I thought I better check the trans, I'm glad I (my Porsche mech) did because the synchros were installed backwards which were self destructing.

[jbscheff]

Subscribed - I'm afraid I may need this one...

[Dixie]

I got everything off the top of the motor today. The plan was to remove everything as one assembly, as mentioned in Wayne’s rebuild book. I gave up on this plan pretty quickly. Mostly, I didn’t thing the fiberglass shroud would hold the weight of the fan and alternator without cracking. Plus, the alternator ground tethers everything. In the end I removed the fan & alternator, the shroud, and the EFI as three separate assemblies.

The alternator had obviously been replaced in the past. I have a cracked boot, and a sheet metal screw used to secure a vane on the air diverter behind the alternator. I removed the screw, and replaced the broken rivet.





50+ bolts later, and things look like this. And yeah, I'm starting to realize this is going to take longer than I thought...

[Joe Bob]

Put seperate items like fasteners and catagory parts in a ziplock bag and label the bag with a sharpy. Clean them first......

Get a bunch of spray bottles....1 gallon water based "Purple Stuff" degreaeser, cheap cans of brake cleaner......

[Joe Bob]

Some threads on MY tranny and engine tear downs.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?searchid=1009102&pp=25&page=6
The Mikey, Ingo and Dan tranny rebuild clinic....