Brake Light Switch, Again?

[scarceller]

Here are all the details and pictures for the new Brake Light switches and Relay install. First note that the stock wiring harness was kept as is and has not been altered in any way, so it's easy to go back to stock configuration.

Here's the schematic:


Here's a pic of the new switches and the relay along with the new wiring


Here's a closeup pic of how I wired into the existing harness, you can wire into any of the existing 2 connectors it does not matter which one you use. In the existing harness the Green wire is the power while the Yellow wire is what lights the brake lights:


This simple change will reduce the current through the new switches to less than 1/2 amp.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by scarceller

Draco,

How much do you move your pedal before yours come on?

Hey Sal,

Please note our relay has been re-engineered by our EE, it is not a stock 30 or 40 amp relay.

For my baby, our BLSAS makes the BLS's activate instantly, literally as soon as a little pressure at top of the pedal my Brake Lights go on. Sometimes too sensitive but that's because I was use to driving with slow brake lights ever since I owned her. I thought this was a 911 thing, boy was I wrong.

One of our customers reported his came on in less than a second after pedal depress.

Jim

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Hey Sal,

Please note our relay has been re-engineered by our EE, it is not a stock 30 or 40 amp relay.

For my baby, our BLSAS makes the BLS's activate instantly, literally as soon as a little pressure at top of the pedal my Brake Lights go on. Sometimes too sensitive but that's because I was use to driving with slow brake lights ever since I owned her. I thought this was a 911 thing, boy was I wrong.

One of our customers reported his came on in less than a second after pedal depress.

Jim

Jim,

I tested my switches first with them installed but not connected to anything, I simply placed my OHM meter across them to see when they closed as I pressed the brake. Bottom line is they do not close imidiatly, they take a little bit of pressure before they close. I did this testing before I wired any relay or ran any power through them.

They do switch on far better than the old ones I took out. But I'm still not 100% happy with how they switch on.

So my plan is to leave the relay but add yet another 3rd switch, a micro switch, at the pedal cluster and run this one in parallel to the existing 2 so all 3 will be wired in parallel. This way whatever switch picks first will turn the lights on, I will leave the existing 2 in place as well. Basically I will have 3 fail safe switches and even if any one fails I still have the other 2.

Hope that makes sense

[DRACO A5OG]

Makes sense brother!

We recommend to our customers to test the old switches to note for timing reference. Then install our BLSAS with new BLS's to note the difference. My EE feels testing new BLS's without our BLSAS may damage the new BLS's, even for that short period of time. But he may just be too OCD, then again that is why we get along.

With our BLSAS you will not need to add the Mirco Switch but for safe measure it wil not hurt, we are talking about your safety and the safety of your baby. Can't be too safe.

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Makes sense brother!

We recommend to our customers to test the old switches to note for timing reference. Then install our BLSAS with new BLS's to note the difference. My EE feels testing new BLS's without our BLSAS may damage the new BLS's, even for that short period of time. But he may just be too OCD, then again that is why we get along.

With our BLSAS you will not need to add the Mirco Switch but for safe measure it wil not hurt, we are talking about your safety and the safety of your baby. Can't be too safe.

Jim,

No matter how you look at this issue I really think the device you are selling is worth installing and selling it as a kit sure makes it easy for most folks without extensive electrical knowlge. It took me about an hour to build my harness for my relay last night and that's with the right tools, shrink tubing and heat gun. So buying this off the shelf for $25.00 is a good deal for most PCar owners

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh Thanks Sal for the Endorsement.

I really appreciate it coming from an Electrical Engineer.

Please keep us posted on your version of the Arc Suppressor.

Best wishes,

Jim

BTW, any pics of your disected BLS's?

[DRACO A5OG]

Another reason why Mechanical BLS is not the best choice for our babys: No brake lights

[Shadetree930]

If I replace the 2 BLSs on the Master Cylinder will I have to bleed the brakes? Or is this a simple swap procedure?

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by prials

If I replace the 2 BLSs on the Master Cylinder will I have to bleed the brakes? Or is this a simple swap procedure?

Have a rag(s) ready and under the switches, have the new switch(s) ready to install quickly! Remove the old and quickly put in the new, you should not need to bleed.

Also, read this thread well. Post #21 shows another solution to the issue. I think the core problem is that hi-current is being sent via the switches, this causes them to arc and pit. In post #21 I show my solution of installing a relay for activating the lights and the switches are used to pick (Activate) the relay. Works like a charm.

Good Luck.

[911pcars]

The crux of the matter is that this is a poor method of energizing the brake lights. There's no adjustment and the service life seems to suck based on the number of posts in this area.

The factory took a step backwards when they added cruise control and needed a brake activated switch to negate cruise action. The switch on the pedal box is the long-term solution (std. on early 911s), but it will require some DIY skills to adapt one onto a non-switch pedal cluster.

Sherwood

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

Just to make sure everybody understands, Sherwood means it was "a step backward" that actually was an improvement. As he said, it's the long-term solution. I have one of the switches that I haven't yet gotten around to installing, but I also mounted two four-LED motorcycle brake-light clusters under the rear wing. they are mercury-switch activated and can be adjusted to go on the nanosecond there is deceleration.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by prials

If I replace the 2 BLSs on the Master Cylinder will I have to bleed the brakes? Or is this a simple swap procedure?

It is a simple swap, but to insure absolute zero air in the system, I would put pressure on the brakes when swaping out the BLS's.

Jim

[Shadetree930]

Cool,

I plan on doing 3 things then:

• 2 New BLSs
• Draco BLS relay kit
• 3 Luxeon Red LED 1157 "bulbs"

A nice little DIY project that will better protect my baby.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by prials

Cool,

I plan on doing 3 things then:

• 2 New BLSs
• Draco BLS relay kit
• 3 Luxeon Red LED 1157 "bulbs"

A nice little DIY project that will better protect my baby.

That is exactly what I did and my Brake Lights are Super Fast according to some Pelicans on the last Big Bear Run

When you put in the new LED bulbs, carefully bend out the copper contacts in the socket to make a solid contact (clean the 20+ year surface of the contacts if you can, I used a dremel). For some reason the LEDs are shorter than the OEM Bulbs and may fit loosely.

I also used a 14" long 2X4 to add pressure to the brakes for the BLS swap and testing of the Arc Supressor and new LED's.

A helper would be ideal to test the BLSAS.

Jim

[cab83_750]

Originally Posted by prials

Cool,

I plan on doing 3 things then:

• 2 New BLSs
• Draco BLS relay kit
• 3 Luxeon Red LED 1157 "bulbs"

A nice little DIY project that will better protect my baby.

I understand that there is no Draco kit yet for pre-84. I guess some of us will wait.


Prials,

I totally missed the LED 1157 bulbs. Is this for the 3rd brake light? Or is this for the regular brake lights? I thought sometime previously tried the LED for the brake lights, but the output was not satisfactory. Care to share your input/clarification?

Thanks.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by cab83_750

I understand that there is no Draco kit yet for pre-84. I guess some of us will wait.


Prials,

I totally missed the LED 1157 bulbs. Is this for the 3rd brake light? Or is this for the regular brake lights? I thought sometime previously tried the LED for the brake lights, but the output was not satisfactory. Care to share your input/clarification?

Thanks.

No Worries, I will post when we have the EE configure it properly. I recently had several other requests for pre-84-89 systems.

As far as the LED 1157, they are the two rear regular brake lights, I found only the LUXEN 5 WATT bulbs will not have current issues and are brighter than OEM light bulbs.

Problem with off the shelf products are that they are not bright enough especially during the day and direct sun light to them. I also found the cheap LEDs will absorb the slightest current and glow dimly during the day with lights off.

I have No affiliation with the LED company, BTW.

Jim

[gsmith660]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Another reason why Mechanical BLS is not the best choice for our babys: No brake lights

I read this thread you show and feel he had much more going on than a switch I actually understood reading this that as there was nothing wrong with the switch it was dirty but functioning IE when he took it off the pedal mount and the lights did what they should they came on cause the switch closed. Your kit looks good but the problem is the hydraulic switch is fundamentally flawed and doesn't work the way it should (I changed 2 sets in 2-3 years). my question is how is the relay modified? I have had the modified mech. switch installed for nearly 20 years and no problems I recently changed it to clean up the install and added a plain ole standard relay to the mix and it works great lights come on instantly? As Scotty said "the more complicated the plumbing the easier it is to stop up the drain".

[DRACO A5OG]

True, when new and/or free from debris, the mechanical brake switch is perfect, but over time they require maintenance and sometimes adjustments to keep them in top working order. Worse case is when they get too dirty with debris the brake lights will not work due to lack of contact.

Our BLS Arc Suppressor is a specific designed modified relay that permanently corrects the over amperage of the BLS System, using a standard relay without our modifications will not correct the problem, infact will most likely damage the BLS's again.

The beauty of our device is that it is truly a "plug and play" device and for those that desire to go concours, they can simply un-plug it.

[Scott Blaze]

Is this available as a kit by someone?

[DRACO A5OG]

You can PM me, we have standard and premium BOSCH Arc Suppressors with ground or priority shipping available.