fender lip rolling tool?

[SCWDP911]

I know I have read here in the past that people have used various objects, such as baseball bats, to safely roll their fender lips for better clearance. Then I came across a thread on another board where someone is selling his on ebay. I never knew there was an actual tool designed for the job. I think his was made by Eastport? Anyway, it looks like it would be fairly easy to make. Has anyone ever tried? It might not be worth the hassle. Kind of a nice tool for that one time job though. Here is a pic...

[Shoepop]

It's sold by Eastwood company. My son and his group of friends bought one for their car club so it's shared. I don't belong to the club 'ricers' but I got to use it on a 911 It works VERY well, just have to go go slooow. I wouldn't try to build one for the price.

[WPOZZZ]

I bought one for my 996, but it didn't work as I did not have the adapter for bigger bolt circles. I did use it on friends BMWs and Subarus and it works great.

[Noah930]

Doesn't Tirerack sell one, as well?

[KevinP73]

I'm bidding on the item on ebay. I'll rent it out if I get it. Stay tuned

[coolngroovy]

Was there something wrong with the baseball bat?
It's all i've ever used, & without paint damage.

But hey!~, if you have heaps of spare folding stuff.........................

[ChrisBennet]

I think TireRack rents out the tool.
-Chris

[Komenda Fan]

...but I'm sure you already have one of these tools in the garage somewhere...

[eapcpa]

but I'm sure you already have one of these tools in the garage somewhere...

I keep mine next to the seat. Doubles as a hood prop and keeps the ricers from drooling on the car. lol!!

[DRACO A5OG]

Wooden Bat & Heat Gun for non OEM Paint.

Ask Rnln

I used Aluminum Bat (Borrowed = Free) and a old rag as not to chip the paint, Bingo

[911pcars]

I've repeated this minority view before, but I'll add a visual that illustrates the effect of rolling the fender edge.

vs.

Instead, I suggest grinding away the metal for needed clearance. This allows moisture to evaporate and for dirt to escape.

Performing short cuts is an easier path. However, procedures that might require more effort are often better in the long run.

Sherwood

[DRACO A5OG]

Good Point, what if one weather seal the lip. will that not resist dirt and moisture?

I just worry about cutting the steel and exposing the metal to the elements i.e. water which may result in rust. Just my .02

Brush out the newly channeled lip and put some weather strip seal seems like a good remedy.

[KevinP73]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

I used Aluminum Bat (Borrowed = Free) and a old rag as not to chip the paint, Bingo

I used the same technique till she heard me refer to her as "an old rag". Chicks are soooo sensitive 'bout that.

[TechnoViking]

I chipped the crap out of mine using a metal bat. Guess I did not go slow enough. Then again, I question the ability of 30 year old paint to bend at essentially a 180 degree angle no mater how slow you go.

The tool shown above is probably the way to go if you are concerned about your paint as it will help you keep things steady and smooth.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Good Point, what if one weather seal the lip. will that not resist dirt and moisture?

I just worry about cutting the steel and exposing the metal to the elements i.e. water which may result in rust. Just my .02

Brush out the newly channeled lip and put some weather strip seal seems like a good remedy.

Sealing the now-folded seam against the elements would be minimum I would think. Since this is more or less a permanent modification, prepping with primer over a clean surface and sealing with caulking come to mind. The ease of applying primer and caulking depends on how tight the roll and the order in which you perform this.

As for grinding, protect the edge after removing the excess metal. Do this any time base metal is exposed. A layer of primer/paint along the not-visible cut edge is the solution - the same as it was before abbreviating the lip. How badly can one mess up a paint job along a thin metal edge, an edge that isn't normally visible? Conversely, we should realize the repair steps it takes to repair potentially cracked paint as a result of rolling the fender lip.

Sherwood

[bluesky]

Originally Posted by v8_ranch

I know I have read here in the past that people have used various objects, such as baseball bats, to safely roll their fender lips for better clearance. Then I came across a thread on another board where someone is selling his on ebay. I never knew there was an actual tool designed for the job. I think his was made by Eastport? Anyway, it looks like it would be fairly easy to make. Has anyone ever tried? It might not be worth the hassle. Kind of a nice tool for that one time job though. Here is a pic...

I've rolled fenders with a wooden ball bat.....if you really want to roll your fenders, I'll help you...I've got a wooden Louisville Slugger that I use for the job.

I think the better solution is to cut/trim the fender and then paint to seal against rust.

[rfloz]

I used the Eastwood tool on my Mustang and overall it did a very good job.

However, even using a heat gun and going at a pace I thought was slow, I chipped the paint along the edge of the fold on three fenders.

Also, be aware that with sufficient pressure this tool will stretch the metal near the lip. That's good news if you need a little flare along with the rolled edge. But, once you stretch it in one spot it is very hard to get back to a perfectly smooth contour.

As to the grinding/cutting method, I am thinking of trying that on the Porsche. Can anyone who has done this recommend specific tools and or grinding media? Also, does this harm the paint?

By the way, if you auto-cross or race, keep in mind that some class rules allow rolling the fender lip, but not trimming it (e.g., SCCA Solo rules work on the principle that if it doesn't say you can, then you can't.)

[911pcars]

Bob,
I've done it both ways and I prefer grinding the lip.

Apply masking tape to the areas to remove. Clearance is only needed in select area on either side. If you see a need for add'l clearance, you may already have the tell-tale tire marks on the wheel well opening. Mark your cut limits with a permanent marker, then begin grinding, but not so aggressively so as to overheat the metal. Apply wet shop cloths draped over the fender helps, then alternate between areas so the heat can dissipate somewhat.

As for equipment, the first time was many years ago on the rear wheel wells of my then-stock 69 911 for larger tires. At the time, I only had access to a large 10-12 inch rotary disc sander; quite intimidating once it gets up to speed (have you ever handled a gyroscope?). You don't want to make a false move against flesh or metal with this sucker at full tilt. However, as I soon discovered, the rear lip isn't where the tire rubs; it's about 3" above, on the body panel, so don't waste your time in the rear. For additional tire clearance, you must modify the factory flares or install larger flares. For most of us, it's the front tires that need a scoche more room.

I suggest a more manageable 4-4.5" disc grinder (medium grit) - easier to handle, and any injuries will be limited by the smaller size of the disc. If the disc is flexible, all the better to contour the new opening into the existing metal. Oh yeah, wear heavy gloves and a full face shield and route the power cord away from the 15,000 rpm disc. Add plenty of light to see what you're doing. Did I mention to remove the tire? I don't want to assume too much.

Use medium grit sandpaper to remove grinding burrs and to dull the sharp edge. You don't need any razor edges to greet friends who want to admire the added tire clearance. Prep any bare metal, then primer/paint.

After describing this, I understand why many prefer using a baseball bat. It's not that bad. If you perform any body work or trim your toe nails using this method, shouldn't be a problem. YMMV.

Sherwood

[Wil Ferch]

I would only add to Sherwood's excellent advice...leave at least a smidge of an "L" shape to the cut-down lip area. It will offer some bending resistance to the plane normal to the fender....like leaning on the fender toward the vehicle center. Evan a small "L" yields some bending resistance strength...

[gestalt1]

has anyone tried to flare the fender with this tool? i'm thinking of creating a 911r rear flare out of a no flare swb quarter panel. do you think it is possible or is a hammer/dolly method needed?
-matt