Shifter nut too tight

[theclaw]

I don't know how they got this on but this nut is not coming off. I'm taking of the short shift the PO installed to put in a WEVO but I can't get this nut off. There is no good angle to get an open end wrench on it and the shift housing is designed such that I can't get a socket over it. I'm beginning to round the edges of the nut. Any suggestions? I'm soaking it in Tri-Flow and already gave it a good heating. It's not reversed thread is it?

[Flieger]

maybe get some vise grips onto 2 of the flats. If you don't have enough leverage by going in with the pliars vertical, maybe you could put them in a vise and turn the housing?

[Walt Fricke]

I've not had this problem, though somehow that lock nut ends up being torqued fairly tight somehow. Maybe try a Crescent wrench if Flieger's use a vice suggestion doesn't work.

But I'd use an Allen socket at the same time - you should be able to put a lot of torque into that. Get both moving.

It is all standard thread as far as I recall.

Walt

[theclaw]

Without too much surgery problem solved. I SLOWLY ground off some material with the dremel. Then I was able to get a socket in there with a breaker bar. Looks almost factory.

[eapcpa]

Sometimes, desperate situations call for rational solutions. Good job!

[RWebb]

Tri_Flow??

not a penetrant that I recall

try using Kroil or pb Blaster - spray it, tap the nut 20 times; repeat every 2 hours for 3 days

if that does not work then take a small torch to it

[MURF]

We Use Impact Gun To Break It Loose

[theclaw]

Tri Flow is something I discovered in Florida. A bike shop had dropped a bike chain with WD-40 and one with Tri-Flow on it and left it in the ocean for a couple of months. The Tri-Flow chain was good as new. The one with WD-40 pretty rusted. I would have used some PB Blaster but I'm out.

Impact gun....With cast parts I'm a little carefull with those things.

Torch....tried it.

[theclaw]

I'll have you notice my BFH sitting on the bench.

[rootmatt]

FWIW now, a socket should fit. Mine did. Perhaps your socket is a bit bulky?

As to getting a grip, that nut is most easily removed/loosened before the shift unit is unbolted from the car.

Sorry for the late info but that's when it usually turns up.

Matt

[Jesset100]

Oh yea! I can't wait to see it installed

[theclaw]

Originally Posted by Jesset100

Oh yea! I can't wait to see it installed

Here you go. I've yet to finish putting the interior together but you'll notice I polished the shifter housing. A little bling but I think its cool.

Jesse, Thanks for the good deal. Now you know it went to a good home.

[911pcars]

Just to complete the thread; removing the lock nut is easier if the housing remains bolted to the tunnel (a 2k + lb. chassis ensures no movement here). Use a 1/2" dr. flex handle and 6-pt. socket for persuasion. A 1/2-3/8" drive reducer on a good 3/8" dr. socket usually has a wall thin enough to fit onto the nut securely. Position the flex handle on the driver side and lift upward to loosen the nut. It's usually tight from sticktion and inactivity. You don't need nearly that much torque to lock the set screw in place.

A courtesy to the Wevo folks
Sherwood
www.seinesystems.com