Mark;
I'm guessing that I am probably 3 weeks away since I need to get a Spring fishing trip in one of these weekends. I am hopeful that all will go well - no leaks, good evacuation and a simple charge followed by at least mid 30's vent temps.
But it will be driveable once the engine is done and who needs air in Chicago quite yet?

Nothing fancy and I really don't know what I'm doing with photography. Sony DSC-T1. Auto point and shoot settings mostly and the close-up setting works pretty well. Often need to disable the flash due to eliminate glare on the shiney bits.

Oh what the hell....here's a pic! :D


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208869360.jpg

But you will! I went to high school in Mt Prospect - Forest View HS Class of '76(now closed).

No doubt, by June, I will be using the A/C and will continue thru the summer. And, I am so looking forward to being cool on those hot summer days. In fact, last year my buddy & I took my Escape to the ALMS at RA rather than suffer in the 911. But not this year!!!!

I remember Forest View as I interviewed for a teaching position there about 1976.:)

OK, here are a couple of teaser pics of the variable speed fan controller. Everything comes neatly sealed in plastic, well organized with detailed installation instructions. There's a lot more to this unit than I would have expected.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208902946.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208902997.jpg

I wish there was a more powerful CFM fan you could put on top of the evaporator box.
I mean... it barely moves any air compared to most cars, and I've completely rebuilt the AC in my '87 car with the Rennaire kit including cleaning and oiling the fan motor bushings.

So, the AC fan is always on high here in S. Florida.

The variable fan control looks like a nice quality set of parts. I see 2 knobs: so they both match? Thoughtful. The circuit card assy goes in place of the resistor pack I assume [?]

todd
89 targa

I really want to do this one. Can you please let us know how it goes. Good, bad, etc. Maybe even some pics as you go...

OK, wife left for Hilton Head on Sat and I join her Wed for 4 days of vacation. In the meantime, lots of wrenching this weekend:D. Replaced the front wheel bearing/hub assemblies on her 2002 Mountaineer yesterday along with changing the oil and rotating and balancing the tires. SO, today was all MINE....back to the A/C project.

Installed the Kuehl Variable Fan Speed Controller today. This is really a great upgrade, high quality unit, extremely well designed and excellent instructions. The install process was a little more involved that I had expected....took me all day, but I went slow and had other issues to deal with (rats nest of radio, sound processor and LCD screen wires).

Starting point. I removed the passenger seat to try and clean up some wiring but not necessary for the job. Note the orientation of the central lock control and the A/C controls (will be swapping them).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209332412.jpg

5.1 Sound Processor sandwiched between two floorboard panels
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209332554.jpg

All I can say here OMG - how embarassing - the worlds visible supply of wiring, but now you know why this took me so long.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209332734.jpg

OK, down to business. Old bi-metallic switch comes out and new controller board installed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209332891.jpg
[img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads12/DSC045801209333029.jpg
[/img]
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209333188.jpg
Then the center console comes apart to install the switch. This is where things slowed down for me. Pulling the units is challanging with wires attached that limit working room. Additionally, I had a tough time seperating the modules. As the instructions describe, there is a white plastic pin and or screws in the rear of the units that must come out. My white pin holding the defroster/hazard and a/c controls had to be drilled out - like it was glued or fused after 21 years. After much wrestling, I was able to swap the a/c controller and central lock module. This will give me better a/c control access and visibility below my LCD screen. Additionally, I will no longer accidentally hit the lock button when reaching for the DVD remote. :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209333726.jpg
Drilled and installed LED indicator light
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209333782.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209333883.jpg

The old fan wiring harness remains in place. Plug disconnected at old fan switch in console accepts two spade connectors from the new switch along with one LED lead. Another LED lead goes to the thermo switch next door and a third goes to ground. At the evap inlet, where the circuit board is located, the old bi-metallic plug goes unused as the unit and the switch have a new plug connection. Finally, two wires from the circuit board unit are fed up through the same grommet as the thermo wire to the fan harness.

Instructions (8 pgs with photos) are excellent and should be followed step-by- step. After following the instructions, the new unit worked perfectly. I'm gonna like it!

Mark;
That's quite the tangle of wires that you had to contend with. Glad to hear the rest of the project went well and the unit works as advertised.
Due to my engine install, I managed only to flush the rear condensor and start wrapping the eveporator box which, I've discovered, is a tedious task. I hope to get back to the A/C after I get the engine periphals connected this week.

Time goes by fast doesn't it? :(

Faster all the time. Especially now as I want my car done and the weather keeps getting nicer.

Don’t mean to hijack, but I learned a lot from this thread and wanted to share.

Just about finished my install. Rennaire upgrade and Griffiths Dual Kuehl. Took about 10hrs + Bass Ale breaks.

Plan is to stay with R12. I have all the equipment needed and a few cans left on my pallet of 12 from many years ago.

I started by pulling the rear condenser and using my flush gun on it. I flushed the entire system about 5 years ago when I revived the old York system, so no crud came out. This ensured all the old oil was out so I start fresh being everything else is brand new.

I then began by pulling the evap. My initial runs started here moving out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210215893.jpg

Then I dropped the splash guard on the steering rack. I used my jack to hold the swaybar in place while I removed the bolts. Then reinstalled the bolt to hold the swaybar in place and moved to the other side and repeated. This made it a snap to drop and replace. Hose removal and reinstall was a breeze. Just drop the hoses and fish them out the bottom. Button up the adel clamps and done.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216246.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216283.jpg

Instead of running the lowside down the driver’s side, I left it on the pass side. I just made the cross in front of the inspection plate and moved some of the C-clips. The pass side run needed to be moved inboard a bit to make up the slack. I like to keep my options open and this way I can easily remove the Pro-cooler and install a stock drier with little effort as the slack is there to reroute my lowside back into the bonnet.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216514.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216549.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216641.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216808.jpg


Installed the new evap

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216764.jpg

and punced the lines into the rear compartment. This was a breeze. As you can see, the hole is very visible to see from underneath. Dead center you see the feed-thru.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210216951.jpg

I then mounted the rear fender condensor. Fit perfect with no problems.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210217047.jpg

Called it a night as you can see it got dark.

Next I installed the front fender condenser. This requires removing the seatbelt bolt.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210217179.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210217239.jpg


I then connected all the lines. I ended up getting a cross thread started on the rear fender condenser. I put a die on it and it got stuck. Ended up cracking the connection. It was a clean break and with the help of a local fabrication shop that deals in aluminum, I was able to get it TIG welded back for $55. This put me down for two days while I waited.

Got the rear installed for the second time and buttoned up the connections.

I have a machine shop at my disposal, so instead of plastic stone guards, I made up some from T3 Aluminum plate stock. Bolted them up and all that remains is to install the compressor, evac and charge.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210217721.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210217763.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210217793.jpg

Now it’s being dropped off at the mechanics tomorrow to get a new clutch. As soon as it gets back I will finish it up. While I have the down time, I ordered Retroair’s evap fan upgrade to get more air in the cab. So waiting for UPS.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210218001.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210218043.jpg

Big thanks to RennAire and Griffiths. RennAire was stand-up in getting me out a new Pro-Cooler when UPS delivered a severely beaten box. Unfortunately and fortunate at the same time, it was only the Pro-cooler that took the brunt of the hit. Everything else was intact. Within a few days a new Pro-cooler arrived! I owe you guys a beer.

I have to agree, Jeff at Rennaire gives excellent customer service.
Looks like you're going to have really cold AC :)

CatSkynr, welcome aboard. Nice work and nice pics. Your post is actually quite timely. I'm still not charged but planning to do so this weekend. In the meantime, I'm not happy with my hose routing as high side and suction lines are currently routed on the driver side. There is not enough room in the rockers to conceal both lines and the way mine are run they cross at the jack point and can be seen below the rocker.

Before I button everything up, I'm going to re-route the suction line from the ProCooler as you have along the passenger side.

It will be concealed. No need in disconnecting anything. I made loose fits before pinning the lines to the pan. You will need to move inboard to the next indention level on the pass-side pan after making the cross run which is roughly 6” inboard to have enough slack in the back. By the time you make it towards the rear, follow the indentation to fall into the original trench (just past the rear door jam when it makes the turn inwards). Pre-drill your pilot holes into the pan by holding the clamp in place over the hose then caulk the original holes closed. When you do this, you end up with exactly 2 unused C-clamps (where the line ran under the splash guard), you reuse these on the front-cross run. Fits perfect, you’ll see when you unbutton your line. Then you will need a few ADEL clamps to pin the line in place next to the hi-side run. Just tack them on the other side of the c-clamps, makes for perfect spacing. I zip-tied my lines all in place at the drier side first, then clamped them to make them look uniform. As you can see in my pic, I spaced them the width of the tie, which worked perfect. One tie loose around ALL the lines, then zip a tie around that looped tie in-between the hoses. Snug them all up.

I plan on making a skid plate for the front and using the original stone guard plastic to make a pan underneath my procooler runs; just to tidy things up as this can be seen and is not hidden. The plastic provided for the stone guards I use at work all the time. It can be molded very easily with the use of a heat gun. I may use this stuff for a skid plate over the front cross run so I can mold it around the hose, then bend a U clamp shape around the procooler side to cover the wheel-well portion that sticks out.

Cars at the mech now getting a fresh clutch so should be a little while before I get back on it to finish things up. I just wanted to get the mass of the work done while the weather is still nice here.

Got everything buttoned up and charged the system today!

First I rerouted the suction line back along the passenger side, made the final high side connections on the ProCooler and zip tied the mass of hoses. Funny, I did not hear any vacuum release when I removed the high side caps on the ProCooler.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210503722.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210503794.jpg
Not quite enough slack in the return line to the compressor to follow the orig route - had cross over somewhat mid tub.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210503900.jpg

Emptied the oil in the rebuilt compressor a refilled with approx 4 oz of Ester oil, then I poured 3 oz down the low side line for a total of 7 oz of oil. Next I pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes. No apparent leaks!!! Then I pressure tested the system using dry nitrogen at 155 PSI. Again no leak down.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210504309.jpg

I then pulled a vacuum for three hours prior to charging. Ambient air temps were 86 degrees so P&T charts gave me targeted low side pressure ranges of 19 -39 and high side ranges of 140 to 235. I then put in three cans of 134a being careful to purge the gauge set and lines by pulling a vacuum with a two yellow line set-up and got the follow readings after each of the first 3 cans (excluding any adjustment for charging hose lines and can changes).

Charge..............Low Pressure..........High Pressure................Vent Temp
12 oz.................15...........................12 5.................................70
24 oz.................20...........................17 5.................................44
36 oz.................20...........................22 5.................................40
36 + (?).............20...........................235.. ...............................43

Getting to the correct charge is the tricky part. Having altered the system by adding two addl condensers I figured my charge would be some north of 40 oz (47.2 oz R-12 capacity x 85% = 40 oz)

I found that imersing the cans in hot water while charging help empty them faster and empty them completely. After starting can 4, I introduced an unknown partial quantity (est 2-3 oz), my high side pressure shot up to 250 - 255 as did vent temps, so I figured I was slightly overcharged so I began venting refridgerant until my high side got back to 235 and then stopped.

Vent temps at idle were a little higher than after can 3, however, taking the car out for a drive after sunset with ambient temps of 75 I was getting vent temps in the low to mid 30's :D

Well, after driving the car for a couple of days, I could not be more pleased with the performance of the new A/C system.

Granted its not been hot here the past couple of days with ambients in the mid 70's and the true test will be when temps get 90+. In the meantime, no problem getting vent temps in the low 30's. I've even seen them in the high 20's on max cold setting.

I wonder if you could take a reading of the temperature off the body of your compressor after a 20-30 minute run on A/C w high cooling. Thanks.

Also interesting would be a temp reading off the top/front of each condensor vs the vent temp at the same time as above.

Are your condensers in parallel with #6-6-6-6 side and #8-8-8-8 side lines or in series all #6 lines? If series, what is the order from compressor to proCooler?