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Monkey+Football
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Does it build and hold pressure if you pump the pedal? What I've found in previous cars was that the most obvious symptom of a failed MC was if it wouldn't hold the pressure when continuously applied.
I got brakes that worked, just not where I was used to having them engage. Everything's back to normal now after another session of bleeding, that's all it took.
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<Insert witty comment> 85 Targa Wong Chip Fabspeed M&K Bilsteins and a bunch of other stuff. |
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03-23-2008, 03:19 PM
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Back in New England!
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Icemaster,
I agree that you just need to exercise the piston in your calipers. Its sounds like what happened to me last summer when I re-built mine. I recommend detaching the softline and using compressed air to force the piston to push your pads against the rotor. Once it contacts, remove the air pressure and the piston will retract. If you do this several times the piston will then be able to move through the new caliper boot properly, having the correct amount of travel (and you don't have to worry about breaking the caliper in while driving, this will hav no effect on your pads or rotors). After you "exercise" reach of your calipers, you will need to build the entire system. After that all should be great. Here is a related link to a thread on this same topic: Brake Caliper Rebuild Problem Have fun with it, Matt
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'78 RoW 911SC Targa converted to a '86-like 3.2L Cab (w/930 body & No A/C) Custom subframe integrated into AutoPower Half Cage, Euro Ride Height, Turbo Tie-Rods, WeltMeister Bump Steer Kit, Sway-Away 26mm Rear Torsion Bars, Koni Adjustable Shocks and Strut Inserts, Two Bar Rennline Strut Tower Brace, Poly Motor Mounts, WEVO Trans Mounts, Modified Conical K&N Intake, ER PB A-arm bushings and 17" CUP3 Wheels. Steve Wong Chip! |
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03-23-2008, 04:22 PM
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1978 Porsche 911 3.2L
