Finally getting around to CMA on my MFI - Page 8

Grady Clay · 06-03-2008, 05:22 AM

Declan,

Have them check the new injectors for opening pressure, leak and pattern - should be part of the price. I have seen new ones fail the tests.

Best,
Grady

declang · 06-03-2008, 05:26 AM

OK Grady.
I've asked them to do that.

Thanks for the advice.

Declan

304065 · 06-06-2008, 06:08 AM

Hmm, I wonder if all the "vintage" injectors will suffer from early opening. I suppose early opening would mean worse atomization of the fuel (an MFI strong point) and fuel too soon in the cycle (although the injectors are probably open pretty much continuously at any decent speed).

Given the price of new Bosch injectors I hope mine don't test this way. Can they be rebuilt?

declang · 01:00 PM

Yes, they are not cheap !

Mine are costing me 815 Euro - ( About 1250 US$ ) delivered from Germany to Ireland.

I think they are listed at 178 US$ here on Pelican, but I get hit with import taxes on goods from the USA coming into Ireland.

Edit : Price is 815, not 851 Euro.

declang · 06-10-2008, 03:26 AM

New injectors all tested good & waiting for shipping pending payment

declang · 06-15-2008, 02:06 PM

No, I Haven't given up

I have got a package from our sponsors with all the necessary seals and gaskets to fix my oil leaks, I hope.

Haven't had a minute to get near the car recently, but hopefully I'll get some of the seals replaced during this week.

Cheers.

declang · 06-24-2008, 12:33 PM

I got the new injectors today, (and the old ones back for spares).

declang · 07-13-2008, 10:53 AM

quick update: I've been away on holidays (in a motorhome around NE Spain) for the past 2 weeks, so nothing has happened apart from me moving the package of new injectors into the garage before I left

Will report more soon.

declang · 08-07-2008, 01:29 AM

Nothing more done since last post.

Been busy sorting out my daily driver and a mk1 golf gti (rabbit) !

Soon, hopefully.

Grady Clay · 08-07-2008, 02:57 AM

Declan,

With the Euro-to-Dollar the way it is, we should have you touring the High Rockies. How about Banff – Glacier – Yellowstone – Grand Teton - Rocky Mountain National Parks!

How about next year – in the 911. There are quite a bit of MFI experience from Edmonton to Denver.

Ship the 911 to Boston, tour New England, drive to Toronto, take the CN (with the 911) across the continent to Calgary, tour the Rockies and return to the East via Colorado, Wyoming, South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York and Massachusetts. Everyone speaks English (and Porsche).

Best,
Grady

declang · 08-07-2008, 03:15 AM

At the speed of my work I might be retired by the time I get the car all sorted, so you never know !

I haven't enjoyed working on the two vag cars at all.
In the 1983 golf, I had a small water leak from the windscreen dripping down onto the fuse/relay panel. Took ages to sort that out.

In the daily, (1998 Audi A4 Avant TDI), I had to replace the front suspension control arms. A day for each side !. What a pain in the proverbial. Rusted bolts, lots of plusgas & a BFH.

Both will shortly be for sale, so had to be done.

Now, back to a car I enjoy working on.

declang · 09-08-2008, 01:08 PM

Finally. Daily driver is sold and mk1 golf gti is back in use as a daily.

Tonight, I even got the 911 up on axle stand again and got to spray the exhaust & heat exchanger bolts with some plusgas, so it feels like I'm finally getting back to it.

declang · 09:43 AM

woohoo.

Today was a good day.

I've been dreading taking off the SSI's, after reading about the possible/probable problems with the studs. I have no heat source, so though I'd stick with the spray-spray-spray method & see.

I've been spraying the nuts with Plusgas for the past week or so. I ran out of plusgas last night so used WD40 instead.

Today I went and sprayed them all again, and thought, I'd try one nut to see if there was any chance the PO had used anti-seize when fitting them.

Sure enough, absolutley no problem. One barrell nut was a bit stiff, but forward & back about 10 times freed it up & off it came.

I stood the ssi up on its end, and about a quarter cup of oil came out

I got brave and decided I may as well take both off.
The 4-5-6 side was a bit more awkward. I managed to bend a ring spanner using my bfh, to get at the nuts on #4 and #5.
Had awful trouble with teh #6 barrell nut. Not that it was seized, just could not get the hex tool seated properly no matter what way I moved the ssi itself (all other nuts removed at this stage).

I ended up using a different hex bit, with a 1/4 drive small socket that fitted up the access hole in the ssi, a long extension and a ratchet.

Phew.

From looking up at the engine, without the SSI's in the way, I'm pretty sure the oil must have come from teh time I drove it without plugging the breather pipes. There was a lot fo oil on top of the engine at that time, and a lot dripped onto the floor, so I'm sure it made a mess.

I now have all the various o-rings & gaskets, so I may as well replace them while I have access.

I'm delighted those ssi's came off so easily. I was very apprehensive about getting them off.

Edit: In my excitement, I forgot the ask the questions :

1. How should I clean out the SSI's ? I guess I could pour in some petrol & swish it all around ?

2. In removing the exhaust box, the bracket to which the bands attach the exhaust simply fell off when I removed the box. It doesn't seem to have been secured anywhere.

I presume the two holes are for bolting it on somewhere ?

This bracket:

Thanks

Grady Clay · 09-13-2008, 10:45 AM

Declan,

That muffler bracket bolts onto the main engine mount (the part bolted to the engine).

Glad to see you making progress.

About the heat exchangers – DON’T USE PETROL (gasoline). We don’t want to hear of you in a Burn Unit for the last few agonizing days of your life.

Plain Sttodard solvent will clean out the oil. A high pressure, high temperature washer with the appropriate soap will do wonders.

Pelican rbuswell and I have some heat exchangers at a radiator shop as an experiment in cleaning. The product they use is a hot lie solution followed by high pressure steam washing. It worked well on my early (slightly rusty) heat exchangers. My 964 heat exchanger came out looking like new. Roger’s ’82 911SC heat exchangers had some reaction to the solution and we quit there. We think there may have been some ‘alumnized’ coating or paint that reacted with the lie. Roger will post some pictures soon.

How soon do we get back to the MFI?

Best,
Grady

declang · 11:31 AM

Grady,
Thanks for the advice on the petrol.

Well, we get back to MFI as soon as I get these oil leaks sorted

If you recall, I was trying to do the part load adjustment but had to abort due to smoke in the cabin !

So, my plan is fix all the possible sources of oil leaks, put in my new injectors & continue where I left off.

Hopefully soon.

edit: Is Stoddard Solvent the same thing as "white spirit" over here ? Used for cleaning paint brushes after varnish/wood paints, etc?

declang · 09-15-2008, 02:00 PM

Today I got the collapsable oil return tubes out, and got the tinware removed to get at the oil cooler to do those seals.

The more I see the more I am convinced I don't really have an oil leak, apart from the cam covers. It does really look like the oil that got dumped on top of the engine has found its way down by various routes.

I intend to replace the seals & gaskets anyway, for peace of mind.

When I dropped the oil, I was amazed at the strong petrol smell. I've hardly done 10 miles in it, but a lot of idling, while setting dwell , timing, etc.

declang · 09:01 AM

My oil return tubes are not the OEM type.

They look very similar to the aluminium version available from our host, except one end looks different to this photo.

The small side has an end which is simply a shoulder for the O-ring, rather than a seat for the O-ring, if that makes sense.
I guess I can replace the two end O-rings, and leave the 2 smaller internal rings - They look physicaly smaller than the new OEM version I bought, although I haven't removed one to check for sure. They look in good condition, so would it be wise to simply leave them in place, and add some silicon grease when refitting the tubes ?

I don't see any other seals available except the OEM type.

edit: Pics of my return tubes:

declang · 11-11-2008, 08:10 AM

it has been a long time ...

Today my daily driver was in the garage, so I took the opportunity of working on the 911 again

Replaced lots of o-rings & gaskets, oil cooler seals, & put it all back together.
Replaced cam cover gaskets & torque correcly this time.
New injectors in, SSI's back on, so hopefully later I'll scare the neighbours if I get her fired up without the exhaust in place

Cheers,
Declan

Grady Clay · 11-11-2008, 08:49 AM

Mr. Grady,

Best wishes and good luck. I hope it goes well.

Can you siphon the old petrol out of the 911 and into another vehicle?
The 911 will like fresh, high octane fuel.

Best,
Grady

declang · 11-12-2008, 12:28 AM

Woohoo. She lives

I put on the exhaust/silencer & fired up last night

I thought I might have to bleed the fuel lines to the injectors, but it sorted itself out after a bit of cranking.

I have a small oil leak at the breather cover. I did renew the gasket but maybe I didnt clean the mating surfaces properly before refitting

No sign of any leaks from the return tubes or cam covers

@Grady - I didn't see your post about fresh fuel until this morning !
I still have to check the fuel flow rate, so I guess thats an opportunity to refresh the fuel.