Removing Factory Sound Deadening

[rennch]

Hi,

amidst my project full of huge tasks, I thought I'd go for an "easy win" and get my interior shaped up. My plan is to remove the factory sound deadening, clean up the residue, grind any problem areas, and POR-15 the interior before applying Dynamat to deaden the sound.

I've searched the forum, but can't seem to find the best method to remove the material and the residual. Heat gun perhaps? Then some solvent?

I got the material off of the rear seats, the firewall, and the passenger side floor. (Which was REALLY tough). I still need to do the driver's side floor and the rear deck.

[Tom '74 911]

I'm in the midst of the same thing. I found that using heat on the floor sound stuff worked best for me. I put my shop light on a section for a few minutes to soften it up and then peeled up that section w/a chisel - small sections at a time. The rear deck and seats - I just ripped that stuff right out, then scraped the remaining residue and pieces w/a putty knife to get the left over fuzz and remnants. After that. . . it's just a matter of how clean you want it to be - I used a grinder w/wire wheel on the rusty spots that I plan on painting over w/POR to get down to bare metal. The rest will be covered in carpet eventually, so I'm not worrying about making it absolutely spotless. I took some photos yesterday, but they're on my other computer - I would've been MUCH easier if I'd tackled this stuff BEFORE the roll bar was welded in! DOH!

Tom

[slodave]

Heat gun works well. I just did this with KevinP73. A big flat blade screw driver peels it right up, although I suppose a smaller putty knife would work well too.

[rennch]

Sounds like we have the exact same plan on. Did you do anything about residual adhesive? Hit it with a solvent or something?

[rennch]

Well, the main reason is that I want to get a look at the floors. if it's any indication, I'm glad I did it, because I found some surface rust flaking off the passenger side that I need to deal with.

[EarlySport]

I agree - its a good preventative measure. POR over the bare floors and then dynamat, and hopefully you've stopped any rust in it's tracks. I did the same, although I'm foregoing the dynamat and going with dound deadening underfel stuff.

[rennch]

What is "dound deadening underfel stuff" ?

I'm assuming you meant "sound deadening, but I don't know what underfel stuff is?

[slodave]

Originally Posted by emptyo

Sounds like we have the exact same plan on. Did you do anything about residual adhesive? Hit it with a solvent or something?

I never got that far. I was just visiting and gave him a hand.

[rennch]

I need more visitors like you.

[ossiblue]

Emptyo,

I did the exact same thing on the floors of my 69, for the exact same reason--check the condition of the floors. Used a heat gun and putty knife, cleaned with solvent, washed thoroughly with Marine Clean, used surface prep (from Por-15), and painted floors. Long and tedious, but gave peace of mind.
One point--if you're not concerned about weight, Dynamat works very well, and if you cover the whole area, provides a waterproof barrier on the floor/seat bottoms. Dynamat, though, is a sound dampening material designed to stop the resonance of sheet metal and it is not necessary to cover the whole area (look inside your door and you will see a small piece of sound dampening material that gives the door that great, solid sound that all Porsche lovers want.) If you want to deaden the sound, you will need an underlayment of insulation, which can be found at upholstery shops.

[rennch]

LJ....good advice, thanks. What solvent did you use?