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			 Max Sluiter 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
								
		
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			I need new brake pads for my 1971 911S 
		
	
		
	
			
				S aluminum calipers front M steel calipers rear Pelican sells "Genuine Porsche" pads for front and rear. Also listed is Mintex front and rear. The 3rd option is OEM Textar front, OEM Jurid rear. Are the "Genuine Porsche" pads just rebadged Textar and Jurid (both are Original Equipment Manufacturers)? How do the Mintex feel? They are cheaper but claim to be a low dust compound that feels different. The car is driven on weekends only for very high performance street driving and occasional autocrosses. Initial bite while cold is the most important factor. I do not need track fade resistance. I do not care about dust. What should I do? 
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	1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance  | 
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			 Max Sluiter 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
								
		
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			A local shop can get ATE pads for the S caliper, they claim. Is this what the "Genuine Porsche" would be? They sell Textar M caliper pads.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance  | 
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			 Moderator 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
								
		
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			Any of the above will be fine for any sort of street use, this side of the Stelvio pass
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes |  | 
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			 Max Sluiter 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
								
		
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			I will be using OEM pads. Ate front and Textar rear. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			Is this the correct bedding procedure? 1. A few smooth slowings from 30 mph to 10mph. 2. A few stops from 30 mph. -let brakes cool 3. A few steady firm stops from 50 mph. -let brakes cool -find open road 4. A few steady, high pedal pressure stops from 70 mph. After this I can drive as I normally do?(very aggressive street driving) I see some pads say "100 mile brake-in" or "300 miles break-in period". Does this only apply for those who do not do a bedding in procedure and just drive normally without working the brakes? I figure the bedding in procedure would take 15 miles or so. 
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	1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance  | 
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			 Max Sluiter 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
								
		
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			Anone have a better brake pad bed-in procedure?
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance  | 
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			 Registered 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Nov 2006 
				Location: Ontario, California 
				
				
					Posts: 1,141
				 
                
				
				
				
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			Here's the procedure we used when I was in charge of a fleet of 4,400 police vehicles.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
			We called it burnishing the pads but bedding also works. Find a clear stretch of highway and accelerate up to 80 MPH and bring the car to a complete stop as fast as you can without locking up the brakes. Immediately do two more stops from the same speed. Let the car sit (with your foot off the brake) for 3 minutes and do 3 more stops from 60 MPH Let the car sit (with your foot off the brake) for 1 minute and do 3 more stops from 40 MPH. By now, the brakes should be smoking and stinking up the place but that's good. It's burning all the resins from the pad and they will last longer and stop better. I might add that there are several other ways of performing the burnishing (bedding) but this method worked for us Last edited by ljowdy; 04-11-2008 at 07:45 PM..  | 
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			 Max Sluiter 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
								
		
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			Thanks for the input.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
				
					
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	1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance  | 
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