1984-left tensioner to cam line replacement

GBG1000 · 06-19-2008, 06:47 PM

Hi all.

I just picked up an 84 targa w/stock 3.2-

The left tensioner line is leaking like a stuck pig, right where it bolts up to the cam line. I can't see if it is broken, by I tried to reseat it with no luck.

I have ordered the line, washers and bracket, and have started clearing things away to allow me to get at it.

Problem: It doesn't look like the lower bolt through the banjo fitting will come out without moving the big steel tube that comes up from the heat exchanger. (there does'nt appear to be enough clearance)

Please tell me I am wrong and that it will in fact brely clear. If not, what is the proceedure for moving the heat exchanger?

Do I need to remove distrib if I am only replacing the tensioner line?

Sorry about the lack of photo - camera is at the office.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jerry

GBG1000 · 06-19-2008, 07:49 PM

Help Please

Thrlls · 06-19-2008, 10:54 PM

I'm not sure what area you're talking about.
You need to post some pics.
The only thing next to my banjo bolt area is the tin for the engine tray.
Then again I don't have any heat exchangers, but even if I did I don't see where it would be in the way.

Flieger · Flieger's Garage

Which banjo bolt? The rear or the side?

I don't have heaters either but it looks like you have to make your own judgement. Can you get your hand and tool in there or not? If not, move stuff until you can.

GBG1000 · 06-20-2008, 03:54 AM

I'll get a pic posted after work.

It is the bolt throught the banjo fitting on the small, thin metal tensioner line on the back of the timing chain cover.

I'm pretty sure I can get to it, even without removing the distributer, but It does not look like there will be sufficient clearance to back it all the way out. (i.e. I think it will hit the tube coming up from the heat exchangers before it is fuully out.)

If this is the case, I may need to find out how to move the tube coming up from the heat exchangers.

I may just go ahead and try it before I get the part. I just thought that it would be better to know before-hand. The parts should get here mid-week, unless I am very lucky.

mthomas58 · 06-20-2008, 04:24 AM

Jerry, I have the EXACT leak and repair job on the top of my list. Here are some threads on the subject that may help. Bottom line, it looks like the dizzy and muffler must be removed to gain access to the left tensioner line fittings.

I've had the parts for over a year now and have been dreading all the work this repair will require. My muffler strap bolts are rusted and frozen. No luck yet with PB Blaster and access is a bear. Cat/muffler connection bolts are rusted beyond recognition and will have to be cut off. If I can't get the muffler bolts off or cut off, removing the bumper may be required.

Good luck and please document your project if you get to it before I do.

Pesky oil leak at tensioner line fitting

Tensioner oil lines

Chain Tensioner Line Replacement - Help

Oil Leak chain tensioner oil feed fitting

repair guide: cam tensioner oil lines

mthomas58 · 06-20-2008, 04:55 AM

Her's a pic (not my car). It looks to me like you can get access to the lower hollow bolt (12 o'clock above the heater tube in the pic) if the heater tube can be removed. Does not look to me like the dizzy has to come out. to replace only the small oil tube that feeds the tensioner.

As you can tell, "I've been studying this for some time now"

Rot 911 · 06-20-2008, 06:09 AM

Been awhile since I back dated my Carrera, but doesn't that tube go into a rubber sleeve held on by a hose clamp?

mthomas58 · 06-20-2008, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt V

Been awhile since I back dated my Carrera, but doesn't that tube go into a rubber sleeve held on by a hose clamp?

Yes

88911coupe · 06-20-2008, 12:55 PM

damn, that's pretty funny Mark...burst out laughing at my desk.

GBG1000 · 06-20-2008, 03:45 PM

Mark/Kurt

I tried to put a open/box wrench on it after work. No go. A special tool could probably get at it. The heat tube definitely needs to be moved. I'm not sure, but it looks like I can move it independent of the muffler if I loosen the straps. The plumbing to the heat exchangers looks to have flexible joints that also remove with hose clamps.

Can anyone confirm this for me?

Hopefully that will do it. May possibly need to remove some tin, but I think a socket will clear. I appreciate you reminding me to get the PB Blaster going!

Now I just have to be patient and wait for the parts!

GBG1000 · 06-20-2008, 03:47 PM

Sorry about the impromptu vision test. - I am learning

Flieger · Flieger's Garage

I think the tin must come out but that is no biggie

GBG1000 · 06-21-2008, 05:58 PM

Another question- I understand a good snug finessed torque is required on the hollow bolts to avoid breaking them (and use new aluminum crush washers).

Can I/should I use and blue locktite or equivalent on the threads of the bol to seal and help ensure that it stays put?

GBG1000 · 06-24-2008, 06:14 PM

[QUOTE=mthomas58;4013700]Jerry, I have the EXACT leak and repair job on the top of my list. Here are some threads on the subject that may help. Bottom line, it looks like the dizzy and muffler must be removed to gain access to the left tensioner line fittings.

I've had the parts for over a year now and have been dreading all the work this repair will require. My muffler strap bolts are rusted and frozen. No luck yet with PB Blaster and access is a bear. Cat/muffler connection bolts are rusted beyond recognition and will have to be cut off. If I can't get the muffler bolts off or cut off, removing the bumper may be required.

Good luck and please document your project if you get to it before I do.

Mark,

My parts should arrive tommorow. I was able to loosen 1 muffler strap w/o problem. The other was a bit of a bear. In the end it relented under brute force, and PB. Those bolts will be treated w/ antisieze before replacement!

Once that was done, the obstructing plumbing easily dropped right out of the way.

The engine tin will not need to be removed, as the hole allows easy access to a socket.

I will only be replacing the small line, so I will not need to remove dizzy. Photos attached for reference.

I don't want to speak to soon but this one looks fairly easy. I'm glad it was not the passenger side.

PS- I like that retrofitted ductwork from your fan to the heat exchanger.

mthomas58 · 06-24-2008, 06:59 PM

Jerry, great stuff! I'm encouraged and now motivated to get this repair done.

I'm going to re-soak the muffler strap bolts this week and try again to remove the muffler this weekend. Have got M&K cat bypass on order. I plan on replaceing all of the exhaust hardware from the cat backward. Steve Wong chip is next.

It will be REALLY NICE to get rid of the ugly nagging oil leak that I have lived with for 2 years. I'm SO over it!

Please continue to document your progress.

Thanks!

Gary.H · 06-25-2008, 04:14 PM

Just did the same fix on my '82 Euro SC today Jerry. I have early SSIs on my 3.0 SC and therefore (I think because of this) the tube that was causing you the problem is missing on my car (the hole in the tinware is just plated shut). As a result access to the banjo bolt is unobstructed

The support brackets I'd ordered from my OPC arrived today so I could fit the new timing chain tensioner oil line ready for CLM.

This was one I got from my local 911 parts man, 930.107.347.06 The suggested part was 930.107.347.02 (which I got from the OPC as a spare) was a different shape/length and did not line up properly. The 930.107.347.06 pipe looked identical to the previous one but needed a 'slight' bit of encouragement to mate up with the existing oil line junction. Had to remove the dizzy cap so I could get at the 12mm top nut, 13mm bolt on the bottom, but other than that was fairly straight forward. Installed the left-hand support bracket too this time.

I ordered the rhs support bracket too (although it's always the left-hand oil line that fails) but was unable to fit it since my rhs oil line is a different shape to the one in this picture (from Pelican):

Mine looks like this:

The curved part of the oil line runs over the nut where the bracket would normally attach to the straight section.

I cleaned up the area around the oil lines so I could check for leaks and ran it stationary for a few minutes and had no leaks so took it out for a run. When I came back there were a few drops of oil on the top of the cam cover but it didn't seem to be coming from the new pipe. There's a lot of oil swimming around my engine bay after the failure of the previous line (the support bracket was not installed) so I'm not sure whether it was that collecting ? I nipped the top nut and bottom bolt up and cleaned the area again and ran it at 2.5/3K with a sheet of kitchen roll under it, no leaks this time. No time left for another run, so not totally convinced it's sorted yet :unsure:

GBG1000 · 06-26-2008, 02:57 PM

Thanks for the post Gary- good work.

I have parts in hand now so out to the garage I go.

I was hoping to get some words of wisdom from a guru regarding the loc-tite question, but since I have received no reply on that one, I will do it without.

I'll let you know how it goes. Mark, I'll try to make notes of anything that is noteworthy.

GBG1000 · 06-26-2008, 07:48 PM

Gary. I had the same saga as you. The replacement part I received 930-107-341-00-m260 was VASTLY different than the part that was on the car. See pictures. I was somewhat ticked off, after having the car sit for a full week. I put a series of bends in the tube to get it to line up. Very tedious trial and error.

Mark - this will be a lot easier and a lot more potential for success if you start with the right part. Maybe if you have the big line and the small line as a set, you will not have the same issues that I did. I followed some advice I read on one of the other threads you refered me to about tightening the compression fitting first. Also pay a lot of attention to the posts that describe the torquing of the hollow bolt. It seems it would be very easy to twist it off if you are not carefull.

Best of luck. Thanks to all for help and advice!

mthomas58 · 06-26-2008, 08:22 PM

Jerry, thanks for the advice. I'll be sure to check that I have the correct part before I get started. You might want to drive the car for a few days before putting the heater pipe back on in case you need to snug it up a little if there is a leak.

I might go ahead and order a spare just in case. I happend to notice in the PO's service records that this oil line has been replaced before - but no support bracket installed.

Thanks again for documenting your good work! Enjoy your new clean garage floor!