Dodging SUVs >> Improved LED tail and brake lights

[The Curator]

Originally Posted by MIK911

3rd brake light---how is it mounted on your '87? My '86 is high inside rear window. I wonder if the bulb socket 'orients' the LED's to point rear-wards.

You have a different housing, mine is external. Check the site and diagrams once you find the corrsponding bulb. I measured mine to make sure it would fit. I am not sure if the LEDs need to face outwards, but I am sure it would help.

[The Curator]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

Good idea, but I think you'll find even faster brake light response by replacing the existing master cylinder brake light switches with another type switch. The hydraulic switches are not adjustable; they only complete the circuit at a certain brake pressure theshold. IOW, light braking may not energize even the most advanced LED light bulbs because of the slow response MC switches.

Sherwood

The switch is fine, response time is perfect. My goal had nothing to do with timing, having them see my brake lights was, especially when sunlight hits the lenses late in the afternoon.

[The Curator]

Originally Posted by MIK911

3rd brake light---how is it mounted on your '87? My '86 is high inside rear window. I wonder if the bulb socket 'orients' the LED's to point rear-wards.

If you want I can measure the amount of light coming out of it if mounted sideways, so that the LED does not face outwards... I think that it diffuses light enough that it may not matter. Just let me know.

[tcar]

Don't think switching to LED's will help much. Little brighter, but still low to the ground.

Third brake light, high in rear window might help.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

I use not only LED taillights in a fiberglass RSR configuration and the stock CHMSL for cars later than mine ('83 SC) but most important a pair of motorcycle LED brakelight units--total of eight bulbs, four in each--that are mounted under the center bottom side of the tail. They are totally self-contained, no wiring, being powered by wafer batteries of the kind you find in some cameras. They are activated by the movement of a dollop of mercury inside each unit, and they can be adjusted (via mounting angle) to come on literally nanosecond-instantly when you brake--far faster than any conventional switch could react--and they flash in a jittering, back-and-forth pulsation. Superbright from directly behind (which is all I care about) and the batteries seem to last somewhere between six months and a year. I mount them with small pieces of industrial-strength Velcro, so I can remove them whenever I have the hatch open for awhile to do engine work.

[RarlyL8]

Where can I purchase those?

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

I don't remember where I got mine, though I can search for the receipt if it's the only way for you to find 'em--lemme know (stephwilkinson@verizon.net). I learned about them from a PP thread about a year ago, so I'd start by doing a search for that. If you do a Google search for "motorcycle LED brake lights," you come up with a substantial number of hits, most fo them companies that supply wired-in lights.

[RSBob]

I went with Halogen tail/brake lights - a VERY noticeable difference with no ill effects to the wiring. Didn't see them from our host, but perhaps Automotion/Performance.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

The problem with those halogen bulbs, I'm told, is that they get extremely hot and eventually melt your lenses. But I have zero experience with them.

[tcar]

Originally Posted by RSBob

I went with Halogen tail/brake lights - a VERY noticeable difference with no ill effects to the wiring. Didn't see them from our host, but perhaps Automotion/Performance.

Halogen are probably OK with brake lights and turn signals - they are on intermittently.

They are NOT OK for taillights. They get hot enough that they will melt your lenses and damage the reflectors.

[RSBob]

Originally Posted by tcar

Halogen are probably OK with brake lights and turn signals - they are on intermittently.

They are NOT OK for taillights. They get hot enough that they will melt your lenses and damage the reflectors.

Considering that I have over 300 hours of run time with the halogen bulbs (I keep my lights on during the day on 2 lane country roads for hours on end) there has been zero deformation to lenses, housings, etc. I removed and cleaned the lenses and housings 2 days ago - zero problems.

I would like to know where you get your 'facts'? Can't be from first hand experience.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

Probably not very strong (high-wattage) halogens?