Best MFI cores for a 3.0 MFI ??

[RS-GT]

Hi,
I have 2 complete MFI systems to start with ; a 72T with plastic stacks or a 2.0E with alum throttle body and mag stacks. Both pump are turning and systems in roughly the same good condition.

Which one should I keep to built a 3.0 MFI motor in a near future ??

Thanks for your help !!
JD

[Flieger]

2,0E is better. The Magnesium stacks are very good looking and function better because you can fit Webber style air cleaners or go for trumpets.

Just my $.02

PS: sounds like a fun project. Please share more updates and photos as the work progresses.

[boba]

Originally Posted by Flieger

2,0E is better. The Magnesium stacks are very good looking and function better because you can fit Webber style air cleaners or go for trumpets.

Just my $.02

PS: sounds like a fun project. Please share more updates and photos as the work progresses.

+1

Also use the 2.0E pump.

[Jeff Higgins]

I used a '72 2.4 T system on my 3.0 MFI project. The plastic stacks are easier to bore to a larger size, and the cold start enrichment system is superior on the plastic stacks. The pump itself will accept an RS space cam if you feel you need to change it, where the 2.0 E pump will not. Actually, I am running the stock T space cam in my pump. The pump can be re-calibrated without changing the space cam. The warmup system is superior on the later pumps as well.

[Mr9146]

IMHO, 2.0-liter pumps blow. I don't like the way they adjust. The 2.2 and later pumps are FAR more user-friendly. I used a 2.4 pump for my 3.0-liter MFI ... never had a lick of trouble.

The internal bearings of the 2.0-liter pumps are supposedly more durable and better suited to "thrashing". But, really, who gives a crap? You're not building a racecar, are you? If you are, then maybe the 2.0-liter pump would be a better move ... MAYBE.

Look, it's not like the thing is gonna self-destruct once you have Pacific do the pump - at that point everything is going to be reconditioned and/or new. It doesn't matter what stacks you use as long as you use the right TBs. 2.0S TBs use a different stud spacing than the rest, so make sure you've got all your ducks in a row.

If I could do my car over again I would probably opt for the plastic stacks because of the integral cold-start (like Higgins mentioned). I would argue that boring plastic over the mag is 6 of one/half dozen of the other ... CNC technology will take care of the machine work so it's no big whoop. I have to say, though, the mag stacks look cleaner when done with K&Ns or run with no filters at all.

Do a search for photos ... you'll find some good stuff.

[RS-GT]

Thanks guys ! Any other comments for past experiences ?

JD

[Jeff Higgins]

Looks like two votes for the 2.4 pump/plastic stack route from two guys who have actually done it. Marco's car, by the way, was the final impetus for me to finish mine. Awesome car.

If you want to go with 36mm S size stacks, we have a Pelican in these parts that has a reamer he made to bring T's or E's up to S's. Far cheaper than N/C machining. He goes by "914/6" (not Marco, who is "Mr9146").

I'll second Marco on the visual appeal of the mag stacks. My only complaint is the fact that Weber rainshields won't fit on the plastic ones, which are too tall to clear the engine cover with them. ITG's will fit, but they are not the best for a street car in a rainy climate like mine. I'm kind of stuck with the stock filter housing, which just covers up too much of the motor. But, in the final analysis, I'll take function over form almost every time.

[Flieger]

I defer to the experts.

I just think the Magnesium stacks look so cool, especially with the trumpets or Webber style air cleaners.- or tennis balls