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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: asheville
Posts: 205
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lower control arm issues
Hey all, I just got the dissapointing news that the control arm bushings on my 87 targa are shot. I am not exactly sure how big of a deal that is though. Accordiing to my mechanic, they can be lubricated to fix the squeeking and cracking sounds that they make ,but that is only a temporary solution. furthermore, he says the bushings cant be replaced. As far as I know the control arms are straight as it has not been in a wreck, so the only issue is the aggravating sound. What other options do you all know about, and how serious of an issue is this.
thanks
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Carl F 2000 Ruby Red Dodge Stratus with high performance racing stripe SE edition WTF? (sadly gone, but not forgotten) 1997 HOnda Accord "Shaggin Wagon" 1987 All black Targa 1998 Lemond Zurich/Dura Ace 2005 Jamis Dakar Sport 2006 Lemond Reno 2 DOgs , 2 Cats, Shi@ton of fleas 1 Cool as Hell Wife that tolerates my stupidity |
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Max Sluiter
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The creaking on the front A-arms is usually the steel torsion bars rubbing and creaking on the inside of the A-arm tube that houses the torsion bar. If the bushings are not addressed, the torsion bar will continue to rub and will be permanently damaged.
The original rubber bushings were pressed in and vulcanized under extreme heat and pressure by the factory. They will not come out easy and they cannot be replaced by anyone I know of except Elephant Racing's Chuck Moreland. Some people heat up and turn the rubber factory bushings around so that they flow the other direction. The real fix is to get Elephant Racing Poly Bronze bushings and lubricate them with a grease gun periodically. Or you can get Chuck to redo the factory style rubber. Either way, you wil need to fix this soon otherwise you will need torsion bars and more work in the future.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Max Sluiter
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Oh, if you mean rear spring-plate bushings, the PolyBronze/rubber solution is the same. Torsion bars will also squeak in back.
If it is the semi-trailing arm, then either go monoball from Elephant Racing or get the replacement rubber. Chuck Moreland is a contributor to the forum and his products can be bought through Pelican.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Quad Cities IA
Posts: 1,238
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Quote:
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Jay '08 E350 Wagon '74 914 gone '72 T gone |
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Diss Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SC - (Aiken in the 'other' SC)
Posts: 5,020
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This detail needs to really be punched up. If the torsion bar has any surface wear on it from the rubbing then it needs to be discarded. Cracks always start at the surface so anything that changes that surface causes a risk of failure. Visible wear and/or corrosion are big no nos.
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- "Speed kills! How fast do you want to go?" - anon. - "If More is better then Too Much is just right!!!" - Mad Mac Durgeloh -- Wayne - 87 Carrera coupe -> The pooch. |
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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A lot of stock rubber Control Arm bushings squeek, including mine for the last 5 years. I know that the bushings are good and the squeeking is just a minor annoyance. Spraying some penetrating oil on the bushings will help.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD! 1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats. ![]() Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ". ![]() |
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RS 73
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Santa Monica Mountains
Posts: 161
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I love the poly-bronze bushings from Elephant on my 1973....great stuff
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Dick Lague RGruppe #79 1973 RS Spec Carrera 2001 Saab 95 Aero 2003 Saab 95 Aero |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 8,279
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Do your research, there are several different options in replacing those bushings. Each with their pros and cons.
Although, other than cost, the one with the least cons, IMO, for a street car is to get the rubber bushings replaced with rubber bushings. This can be done be either putting whole new control arms on (which would then get you the factory set up with factory parts, which will last another 2 decades without even ever looking at them again), or getting the bushings replaced with similar rubber bushings. |
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gjs
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I researched this in depth and replaced the control arms and spring plate bushings with Polybronz. Chuck wanted approx $500 to do the control arms with orig rubber. Polybronz are a better product for less. Urethane is out there for less but has a squeak problem. If you also do trailing arm bushings it is a good time to do rear wheel bearings while arm is off. After all this you will need to reset ride ht,
corner balance and do a 4 wheel realignment. Oh yea, did all four shocks and front strut support bushings to. It alot, but boy did it change my ride. After 20 years all of the above rubber is probably spent, regardless of mileage. If you get into it do a search for some of my posts to see the problems you can run into. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 19
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IMO the very best solution, and the most expensive, is to buy new control arms. The Porsche designed bushings are non-replaceable. Just as in my BMW, you replace the whole arm. There are replacement alternatives as noted above, but none will "envolope" bumps as well as patented factory bushings.
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AutoBahned
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Actually, people who should know tell me that the polybronze does a _better_ job on street bumps ("envelope bumps") than the stock rubber.
I you have a different experience or any data, or have heard differently from true experts, please post. If it is just supposition... |
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