retorque intake manifold nuts on Carrera 3.2

[oly]

I have questions about a Panorama Tech Q&A article (July 1997) with a Bruce Anderson statement that says:

"The intake manifold gaskets compress and leave the manifold nuts loose. If this is not taken care of, the engine will run rough at idle because of the air leaks. If it gets this bad, probably the only way to really fix it is to pull up the intake manifold, renew the manifold gaskets and then torque up the manifold again. The torque is 15-18 lb-ft. They should be torqued every 15,000 miles just to be sure they are tight."

Specifically:
1. Do other people use the retorque every 15k miles advice to successfully prevent the rough idle problem?
2. Is this a solution to the 3.2 rough idle problem that other people have successfully used?
3. How difficult is retorquing? How much time does it take?
4. How difficult is pulling the manifold, replacing the gaskets, and replacing the manifold? How much time does this take?

My search on this subject did not show any related threads. But I think that my internet settings might be messed up. So if there is another thread on this subject, please give me a reference to it.

[strupgolf]

I just did my right side gaskets and it was very easy. The manifold came off with just loosening the throttlebody unit attached with the two ring clamps. I did take off the fuel rail and laid it to the side. I cant recall if I took of the injectors or not. Changed the gaskets, 2 for each port, but did not change the rubber gasket. They looked good, but maybe someone might chime in to say you should. I do need to torque them down to specs now, but I'll get to it soon. Car ran much better for me afterwards, but I had a bad gasket. So a search on intake gaskets, maybe it will help.

[oly]

strupgolf,

Thanks for the post.

If anyone is interested I found this one with a search on "intake gaskets":

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?action=showresults&searchid=2552030&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending&exactname=yes&searchuser=

[yelcab1]

Bruce is right on this one.

[88911coupe]

Is there anything that can be done to reduce potential leaks on the Carrera intake runners seal? Possibly some sort of sealer?
TIA

[burgermeister]

So pretty much the entire top of the engine need to be disassembled to torque those bolts? Sure looks like it ... heck, it looks like even the intake manifold must be removed to gain access to torque the intake manifold bolts. I doubt mine have ever been retorqued - nothing on top looks like it's ever been apart.

[RKC]

Basically, yes, try to do it when you do the valves. My car only has 37,000 miles, and developed a lumpy idle at around 27,000 miles (was missing on one cylinder at idle/OK when revved) which turned out to be a "sucked in" gasket. It isn't hard to torque or replace them, just takes time to remove all the junk to get at it (and get a double-jointed, longish extension for your 1/4 ratchet). To replace them, you can lift up the manifold better on one side than the other, but you can get new gaskets on with the engine in the car.

Was in there doing something else 10,000 miles later, and sure enough, some were getting loose again.

[RKC]

You can leave the manifold in place if you're just tightening them. Just get a flex-ratchet extension (and a mirror and good light!) Our cars are getting old - if you take all that stuff out, you could do your high-pressure fuel lines too! (Yes, that's why I was "in there" this summer!)

[stlrj]

Originally Posted by 88911coupe

Is there anything that can be done to reduce potential leaks on the Carrera intake runners seal? Possibly some sort of sealer?
TIA

Yes. You could eliminate the intake gaskets altogether and use Ultra Gray sealant instead.

I never have to re-torque my intakes or worry that they might get loose and suck in a gasket.

Intake gaskets are such b***s*** IMHO.

Cheers,

Joe
86 3.2

[88911coupe]

OK, have to ask, what is the difference between the Grey and the Black, other than the obvious color? I guess the grey is specifically for making a gasket but the black is a sealant? Would the black help if used in conjunction with the factory gaskets which I already purchased from our host.

[Lesworth]

You should replace the black spacer (sits between the two gaskets) when changing the gaskets, they only cost a few dollars.

I removed the air box and engine heater blower motor and could easily access the studs to re-torque.

Two important things to remember if you do this yourself:

1) Take extreme care not to drop anything into each cylinder (use a rubber glove or something to block as you work
2) After 1000 miles, re-check the torque settings as the gaskets complress slightly. I had to turn each stud a quarter of a turn when i re-checked this

[stlrj]

Originally Posted by 88911coupe

OK, have to ask, what is the difference between the Grey and the Black, other than the obvious color? I guess the grey is specifically for making a gasket but the black is a sealant? Would the black help if used in conjunction with the factory gaskets which I already purchased from our host.

Why take a chance?

[dshepp806]

I found one of mine loose one day,..checked 'em all after that.....I'll continue to check them on occasion (even when she's asymptomatic).

Best,

Doyle