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-   -   Trying to make my carrera 3.2 FASTER! (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/430635-trying-make-my-carrera-3-2-faster.html)

mmn710 09-15-2008 07:04 PM

Trying to make my carrera 3.2 FASTER!
 
Well ill start by explaining what I have done so far. The car is an 88 3.2, it has fabspeed cat delete, K&N drop in filter and 911chips.com chip.

I raced my friends 04 350z which has intake, cat delete and clutch and flywheel package. from a 1st gear roll he would take me by like a car, car and 1/2. From the light I had him till the end of 4th which amazed me and made me so happy :). I was very impressed, but its those rolls that were killing me.

What else can be done to these motor for more power with out opening it up. I was thinking of getting the bursch exhaust but i didn't know if i would loose back pressure from having the cat delete and exhaust. Help please, thanks.

Whtnkls911 09-15-2008 07:05 PM

Lose weight...

DYB 09-15-2008 07:11 PM

You have pretty much done what you can. You could always spend some dollars on headers and induction. But to get anything worthwhile in the HP it will run into big dollars. Headers maybe not but a better EFI and ITB's or carbs will cost in the $1000's.

Losing weight will make it a fun car to drive, but you always have to consider how much comfort you will lose and how it may affect resale.

old man neri 09-15-2008 07:11 PM

A few things.

1) A 911 is not a dragster.
2) Street racing till the end of 4th? That's very fast for the street. Just take it to the track would you please.

mmn710 09-15-2008 07:21 PM

Ya I'm not looking to spend thousands but ill def look into loosing weight. Where can I start first on that. Like what should i take out which will help my car loose weight.

Also with the exhaust question. Should i get one or should i just keep it stock for back pressure?

DYB 09-15-2008 07:28 PM

If you have the sports seats you can lose around 70lbs by putting in some light weight ones.

But for the definitive answer on losing weight..try

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/423361-438-lbs-gone-5-days-my-build-story.html

It is a comprehensive and excellent description of on how to lose weight and how much.

aigel 09-15-2008 07:32 PM

Go to a road track. You'll beat any stock 05 350Z. What are you trying to do anyway? Impress someone in a 20 year younger car? The 911 is an icon, you don't own it to drag race.

That said, headers and cams would be next on your list - with an updated chip taking this into account. And loosing weight as everyone has already pointed out.

You could also just go buy a 2004 996 turbo, catch up in time and forget about it.

George

RWebb 09-15-2008 07:33 PM

Start at the rear of the car. 2you can remove the bumper shocks & exchange for the Euro crush tubes or just toss the whole bumper assembly.

kill the a/c; and any big heavy metal stuff on the motor.

get a FG rear deck lid...

you have a penalty with the later MY car as it has the heavy G50 in it. If you like the feel of a 915, build up a late 70's Mg cased one for strength and the gear ratios you want and put that in. people will pay good money for a G50.

remove the sound absorption material, again starting at the rear

toss the heater blowers in ecah footwell and then the one in the rear.

look at Shakingjoe's wt. loss thread it is currently active on here

87coupe 09-15-2008 08:01 PM

So what's the weight difference between a G50 and a "late 70's Mg cased one for strength and the gear ratios you want", and what is the net performance gain of losing said pounds that low and centerish on the car? Has anyone ever actually done the switch from G50 to 915? Not trying to be antagonistic, if there really is a significant performance gain for this I'd like to know about it.

MOMO3.2 09-15-2008 08:35 PM

The "weight penalty" of a G50 is relatively minimal. As Randy correctly states a BUILT mag case 915 would be lighter with optimal gear ratios and the strength and dependability of a G50. But, that would be quite a pricey alternative to sticking with your already strong, reliable, sure shifting G50 that carries a small weight penalty.

My advice as the owner of an 87 G50 Carrera would be:

1. Don't race your friend on the street anymore. If someone crashed, you could end up in prison and lose EVERYTHING.

2. If you are going to keep your Carrera forever, comfort is not an issue, and resale does not matter, strip all the weight you can off that thing. My Carrera lost 400 lbs. It weighs 2,460 lbs. The result is a much more responsive, lively, fast, and noisy car.

Good luck.

Mike

MOMO3.2 09-15-2008 08:48 PM

Brandon:

A few people have actually weighed and measured a number of G50's. You may want to search posts from Tyson Schmidt. He recorded data from several G50 and 915 cars. I believe Tyson found there was a 15-20 lb difference stock. If your 915 has an oil cooler, the difference is nil. I think there is a lighter flywheel that brings the G50 to about the same weight as a 915.

The G50 is a strong transmission that is rated to survive much higher hp and torque loads than a standard 915.

Mike

87coupe 09-15-2008 08:54 PM

Thanks Mike, confirms my suspicion. 15-20lbs reduction at that location is pointless. Changing your gear ratios is another story, although Porsche did a pretty damn good job already.

Geronimo '74 09-15-2008 09:32 PM

Lose weight, take it to the track.

If you're friend starts feeling good because he's faster than a Porsche, remind him your car is 20 years old and that any recent Porsche would gladly have him for breakfast. ( heck, it even doesn't have to be that recent either.)

Steve@Rennsport 09-15-2008 11:01 PM

Leave the engine alone: install close-ratio gears.

You'll be amazed at the difference,.... :)

1100sport 09-16-2008 02:01 AM

On the engine side:
964 cams will prevent the car from being out of breath after 6000 rpms.
A MAF system will yield approx ten more HP... Nice little boost for reasonable amount of money.
Light flywheel will make the engine rev faster and contribute to overall weight reduction.

cgarr 09-16-2008 05:27 AM

You guys need to go to some autox's that's where you will shine against the 350z

vanwyk4257 09-16-2008 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgarr (Post 4183725)
You guys need to go to some autox's that's where you will shine against the 350z

Yep, 350z's are really heavy cars!:D

Bill Verburg 09-16-2008 05:54 AM

For drag racing
1) drop weight
2) install an 8:32cwp

JeremyD 09-16-2008 06:18 AM

For the G-50 to 915 myth - quoted posts of people that are much smarter than me:

G-50 vs 915 Transmission
Quote:

Originally Posted by Tyson Schmidt (Post 2330791)
The weight difference between a G50 and a late model aluminum 915 is 25#. That's with similar clutch and flywheels set-ups. The stock G-50 clutch and flywheel are what add on the extra weight between a stock G50 car and a stock 915 car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911-32 (Post 2083211)
FWIW, the difference G50 vs 915 is 45lbs, but that includes everything flywheel forwards. The bare trannies are about 27lbs. You can fairly easily save 20lbs on the G50 by going for a lightweight aluminium pressure plate, a spring centred clutch and L/W flywheel. Now you are only 25lbs difference and you get the benefit of an engine that revs much quicker between gears and has less reciprocating mass for better acceleration. That's not to say you can't save some weight on a 915 as well, but you get the idea.
Richard

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwerion (Post 3275396)
I have weighed the late 80's G50 and the aluminum 915 and there is 20.5 lbs difference stock trans to stock trans. I figured by the time I beef up a 915 and add a cooler I would only have about a 10 lb savings, not worth sacrificing the reliability of the G50 in my opinion. My G50 is bullet proof with out a cooler and I have been very happy with the decision. There is another 10 lbs savings if you use an older mag case 915 but that would not hold up to a 3.8 RSR motor from what I hear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann (Post 5136580)
Let's look at this a little closer. The weight of a filled 915 RoW version 915/67 with cooler is approximately 60 kg (132 lbs). The cooler weighs almost nothing (I can testify to this because I've cleaned a number of them), so let's call the USA 915/68 at 130 lbs. The weight of a filled RoW G 50 version 950/00 is 66 kg (146 lbs), which is virtually identical to the USA version 950/01. So we have a weight difference between the two transmissions of 16 pounds.

The 915 flywheel weighs 12 lbs, and so does the G 50 flywheel, so that's even.

The stock 915 clutch weighs 18 lbs, the G 50 clutch weighs 29 lbs. So, in total, the G 50 package is approximately 27 lbs heavier, which was offset (in 1986) by an increase in rear torsion bar size from 24.1mm to 25mm. Something else comes into play here that contributes to the 915 car "feeling quicker" to some drivers. Back in the day of Hemi-Cudas, 427 Vettes, etc., the ticket to really quick quarter mile times was having a "short", 4.11 rear end (final drive) ratio, or an even shorter 4.56 ratio. Of course, the big compromise with a short ratio was having to run at much higher revs at freeway speeds. Cars with a taller, aka longer, 3.00, or 3.30 rear end (ring & pinion ratio) just wouldn't come out of the hole as quick, and the race was usually over in 2nd gear. In 1974, 911s were fitted with a 7:31 ring & pinion, which is a final drive ratio of 4.43 (remember, the bigger the number the shorter the ratio). Later SCs and early Carreras w/915s had an 8:31 (3.88) final drive ratio, BUT, G 50s are fitted with a 9:31 (3.44) final drive ratio. Yes, the factory fitted all new, "shorter" ratios to 1st-5th to try and make up for it, but, while striving for better mileage and reliability, couldn't overcome that "longer" ring and pinion, which can make, combined with the extra pounds, a G 50 car feel more sluggish than a 915 car. A lightweight clutch will help the G 50 car, but on a road course there should be very little difference between the two because the rpm drop between second and third, between third and fourth, and between fourth and fifth, is very similar when comparing a 915 to a G 50. Yes, the 915, in some situations, will "feel" quicker, but can it generate quicker lap times on a road racing course? I doubt it.

For the "How do I get the most of my Carrera"

Take your buddy to a DE or autocross.

Get some sticky tires.


Own the 350z

kick7ca 09-16-2008 06:42 AM

Racing on the street to the end of 4th gear? You're an idiot.

MOMO3.2 09-16-2008 06:46 AM

Jeremy:

Thank you for taking the time to organize the fact based posts from the experts to whom I was referring.

This is solid information for G50 Carrera owners that are "weighing" their performance upgrade options.

Mike

Dantilla 09-16-2008 07:24 AM

I have a stock 3.2, with a 7:31 915 tranny and light flywheel. It's in a 2200 pound 1973 coupe.

I'll gladly take on a 350Z, but only at the track.

richde 09-16-2008 07:26 AM

Street racing is kewl

911st 09-16-2008 08:08 AM

For a little bit more on the cheap. Removing everything form the front trunk is 50 lbs. Replacing the 65 lb battery w a 15-20 lb race unit. Take the rear seat backs and lap belt hard ware out for a total of about 100 less weight.

Choosing the right tires can add a small gearing advantage. Stock is about 25" tall. There are tires down to 24" or less that can work on the car. Mich Sport Cup tires are lighter that most but expensive.

Adding a second exhaust pipe to the passenger side to mirror the driver side can add up to about 7HP if the chip is matched. Or get a good sport muffler. A freind has a car just like mine but w a Bursh muffler and he gets about 5-7HP more than me on the same dyno on the same day.

Make sure your car is well maintained w a clean air filter. Good plugs, wires, and valve adjustment.

Then get you car on a dyno, upplug the O2, have them put there wide band 02 in its place and verify your A/F ratios. If not ideal, send them to Steve to get them right.

If ya want to spend more, weight reduction and gears as noted are the big ones. A light clutch pack would be nice and will add HP on the dyno.

Cams might add a little HP up top but should have lighter valve retainers added and / or up graded springs to match. If you are going to spend much time around 7000rpms you should put stronger rod bolts in as they are a known weak point.

SSI headers add a bit around 3000rpms but are smaller than stock so don't add much up top.

Then there is the low boost turbo conversion for about 340HP... ;)

Just my two cents.

FastCarFan 09-16-2008 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg (Post 4183771)
For drag racing
1) drop weight
2) install an 8:32cwp

Or, for drag racing, get a Mustang.

And stop racing on the street before someone gets hurt.

RWebb 09-16-2008 08:44 AM

Sure, a built Mg cased 915 is a "pricey alternative to [a] G50" BUT be careful when calculating the wt. penalty - it is "small" when compared with a late model Al cased 915; but larger when compared with what I stated - a Mg cased 915.

If you race, then you are going to rebuild the trans. eventually anyway.

If you drag race, then you are going to rebuild the trans. very soon anyway.


If this table formats properly, you will see that the Quoted "only 15-20 lbs." above is WAY WAY off. Try 50 lbs.!


Transmission Year Weight (lb) Input Torque max. (ft-lb.) Clutch Plate Dia. (mm) Notes
901 - 1968 75 215
901 1969 148.5 1 215
911 1970-71 225 2 wider gear rings than type 901
915 - early 1972- 125 181 3 rel. to 901, 911 has reinforced bearings, roller bearings, ball bearings; gear shaft spacing increased, wider gears; two shafts supported by six bearings (prior was 4)
915 – w/ pump 275
G-50 1987 1755 221
964 trans 145.5 with oil
993 6 speed trans 145.5 with oil4

1 die-cast housing replaced the earlier sand cast housing, allowing more input torque (Frere, p. 114)
2 “pull clutch” - blade tips of diaphragm spring located in the cover, so pressure plate pushed by blades along a smaller radius, giving better leverage, with less force required by driver to release the clutch (Frere, p. 114)
3 Frere, p. 120 – higher torques can be handled with a reinforced final drive and a pump to circulate oil through a cooler and to spray the most stressed gears and crown wheel and pinion assembly; the 275 ft-lb. figure is for racing where long term wear is not a concern.
4 Excellence, June 1999, p. 28
5 The 1995 993 trans. weighed the same as the previous 5-speed in the 964 at 145.5 lbs (with oil). Excl. April 1994, p. 77. Gearbox casings are thin wall, pressure cast Al; the pinion shaft is gun-drilled, and the ring gear forging has pockets to reduce wt. – P AG says all these are firsts for a production road car.

RWebb 09-16-2008 08:45 AM

Ok, here is an image of the table instead:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1221583535.gif


- same footnotes apply


As you can see, the G-50 is a Porker!

MOMO3.2 09-16-2008 11:43 AM

Randy:

I was off by 5 lbs according to Tyson Schmidt's data. And I clearly stated "I believe Tyson Scmidt found a 15-20 lb difference". I then suggested that Brandon research Tyson's posts to find the exact numbers he came up with.

The issue really comes down to what you want to place more stock in, your data table or real world experience and findings from people such as Tyson Schmidt and Peter Zimmerman.

I don't know about you Randy, but I think I will stick with what Peter and Tyson have to say.

Mike

jurhip 09-16-2008 12:28 PM

All advice has been great, but aking it could be comparable to walking around with blinders on. For the money you will likely spend to top out your car, your friend could bolt a supercharger on his 350Z and you will never touch him in a straight line. He could also remove weight.

If you want a car that is fast given modern day standards, you should just like totally buy a modern car. (Apologies for the jab - but please don't write in common vernacular. It is a sign of poor intelligence)

RWebb 09-16-2008 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MOMO3.2 (Post 4184500)
Randy:

I was off by 5 lbs according to Tyson Schmidt's data. And I clearly stated "I believe Tyson Scmidt found a 15-20 lb difference". I then suggested that Brandon research Tyson's posts to find the exact numbers he came up with.

The issue really comes down to what you want to place more stock in, your data table or real world experience and findings from people such as Tyson Schmidt and Peter Zimmerman.

I don't know about you Randy, but I think I will stick with what Peter and Tyson have to say.

Mike

You need to go back and read the info you posted more carefully. Both are comparing the very last of the 915s (the heaviest ones) with the G50. Now, go back and re-read what I said about wt. variance in different versions of the 915.


Again - look at the footnotes on the data table. They give the sources, which are highly reputable. I would also want to see the methodology that others used, and be sure the scales they used are calibrated.

The aside you quoted about the Al cased transmissions being stronger than the Mg cased ones is not really true according to what I've seen. It appears the MG cased ones are stronger b/c of the steel bearing /plates used. 2p ag dispensed with those on the Al cased trannys. There is a thread on that somewhere.

Another source of data would be to collect a bunch of Porsche's Tech Spec books. If people will post scans of the trans. wts. from various years, I will collate them and tabulate.

If people would like to send me an assortment of transmissions, I will be glad to weigh each one accurately on a calibrated scale and then return all the ones I don't want to keep.

gtc 09-16-2008 12:56 PM

NOS, but don't use it too early or the Z will whoop you.
I learned that from Vin Diesel.

dshepp806 09-16-2008 02:45 PM

wanna play "that" game,..get a turbo for starters...

..otherwise , seemingly misguided. As kick7ca

alluded,...(that is, top of 4th..) ? Streets?

It's JUST NOT about this "redlight stuff".....but a turbo could help with the redlight endeavors...


Best,

Doyle

mmn710 09-17-2008 09:55 AM

Thanks for all the help.

911st, i like a lot of your advice, I'm prob going to go with some of the things you said in your post. I tried looking for turbo kits but i couldn't find any for the 3.2 motor. I dot plan on doing it anytime soon but i would like to see some of them.

dimeified 09-17-2008 10:38 AM

For 3.2 turbo kits do a search on "protomotive."

Also i know this sounds lame, but check if you are getting full throttle. More than enough drivers out there end up finding out they aren't getting full throttle when they buy a performance chip and it says in the instructions to check full throttle in which case they do and their blown away after it is corrected.

In my case, I found out i wasnt getting full throttle. Turned out the ball on the throttle linkage wasn't in the cup on the back of the gas pedal, but just resting in one of the diamond squares. I drove the car like this for 2 years after i bought it in 2006 not realizing. I guess the previous owner sold me the car thinking it "got slow" after he might've fussed with the gas pedal, but me not ever owning one of these before thought it was fast the way it was. Rest assured i was pleasantly surprised once I resolved this issue.

If your not getting full throttle then not only will you be slower due to the lack of air and gas entering the engine, but the WOT (wide open throttle) sensor will not click on and default to WOT fuel maps in the chip in the dme. You won't be driving at balls out performance.

Nine9six 09-17-2008 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aigel (Post 4183266)
Go to a road track. You'll beat any stock 05 350Z. What are you trying to do anyway? Impress someone in a 20 year younger car? The 911 is an icon, you don't own it to drag race.

That said, headers and cams would be next on your list - with an updated chip taking this into account. And loosing weight as everyone has already pointed out.

You could also just go buy a 2004 996 turbo, catch up in time and forget about it.

George

+16 on loosing weight. That being said...
Let the guy continue to drag race his car...We need more posts on motor drops and clutch installs:p

911st 09-17-2008 11:09 AM

Here is a great source for a turbo kit:

http://www.geocities.com/protomotive/products.html

mmn710 09-17-2008 09:18 PM

I don't always street race the car, for all those people freaking out about it. It was one race I had with a buddy of mine just to see how fast my 3.2 was because i used to have a 350z, pretty much the only time i really raced my car on the street. I don't plan on going out picking street races so please relax.

I just want help on getting more power out of the car.

Thanks 911st for the link. If anyone else has any opinions on what to do I would like to hear them.

911st 09-18-2008 03:44 PM

Not my cup of tea but I would think the 911 w g50 transmission dose have the makings of a good drag car having 60% of ones weight over the rear wheels.

A LSD would help.

For years the Porsche 930's and Turbos posted the fastest 0-60 and quarter mile times in the car mags.

sl951 09-18-2008 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911st (Post 4188999)
Not my cup of tea but I would think the 911 w g50 transmission dose have the makings of a good drag car having 60% of ones weight over the rear wheels.

A LSD would help.

For years the Porsche 930's and Turbos posted the fastest 0-60 and quarter mile times in the car mags.

It does... given the rear weight bias, the car hooks up and launches very quickly. There was a guy that professionally drag raced his 964 turbo in the 9sec range.. Mello - his name?

The 911 platform has successfully competed in every motor sport category beyond the common road course. From off-road dirt racing, rallies, hill climbs, land speed records, ice racing, endurance racing, and even drifting. I see drag racing as just another venue that it can compete with the best of them.

As for a faster 3.2 - replace it with a 3.6 :)

wcc 09-18-2008 06:01 PM

Do you REALLY want to make your 911 faster? Really? I mean do you really want to make it faster or are you just saying you want to make it faster? What I would do is sell it and buy a nicely modded 930, SERIOUSLY! Then make it what you want.


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