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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wil Ferch (Post 5560201)

Just trying to be helpful on this fantastic build...so don't take this the wrong way.

1.) I second the motion to ditch the foam-cell-tape weathrstripping. You NEED the in-place channeling effect of proper U-shaped weatherstripping...and I've never seen the taped-side stuff look good after some time. Tends to come off too...... plus are you sure it's closed cell and not open cell anyway?

2.) with regard to the carpet material glued onto the inside surface of the door panel. Let's think this through. In a "normal" street car, it is understood and accepted that rain will run down the outer window surface, and enter the door cavity. That is why there is a plastic sheet vapor barrier placed and glued underneath the inside surface of door panel and trim....that touches the inside mounting location of such a panel. You don't have an "interior" panel,...just a massive "hole"... so that won't work, but in either case if you have up/down windows ( correct?....via strap or such?)....then water WILL collect in the inside of the door cavity and will always wet the carpet surface that is glued to the inside surface of the outer door skin. This carpet will in time always stay soaked and get moldy, not to mention what it does to the glued surface and that it might then cause door rust under the carpet. Do you then want to do this?. OR.....do you hage a "fixed" window (sorry if I missed this) with a slider window- in-a-window ....going horizontally back and forth instead? Then it might be OK as the window lower edge may be sealed or overlaps the outside door surface. SmileWavy

Not taken the wrong way at all, thats why I keep posting, there is always someone who knows more about these things than I do...its great!:)

1. I am going to have another go at fitting the bonnet seal. I think the main problem is that the fibreglass bonner is thicker on the edges than the standard bonnet, hence the bonnet was sitting higher when it was all fitted. I have found a generic supplier of u-channel seal that I could use...for now i will keep the foam seal on the bumpers but I agree with the comments regarding the bonnet.

2. O'yeah...good point......erm......:rolleyes:

Ok I have some options:
1- Leave as is as face consequences
2- Remove the carpet, paint over area and job done.
3- Rethink window mechanism...
a- fixed glass with small window in window slider or flap opener
b- recreate something like this 935 or 904...

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/IMG_7063.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/IMG_7074.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...dkqw_27JPG.jpg

I think this is do-able, some aluminum u-section tapped with a drainage pipe and some custom brackets should do the trick?

Thanks again
Chris

Hmm....935/904 slider is full height and may still have water entry issues..... maybe we should see how the factory did this, even if for rudimentary race duty.... if lower main window edge has a channel/tubing/collector, etc of some sort.

I was thinking more along a smaller portal....like here on posts # 2, #3 , #17, allows lower full edge to be sealed, of course this whole set up will let some water in thru the window itself to some degree, but you get the idea.--->

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/448312-911-slider-lexan-windows-fixed-style.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by thk2c (Post 5675251)

Any updates?

Soon.....life seems to be getting in the way at the moment:)

Well I eventually opted for a 911 engine. I was hoping to have it fitted over the Christmas holidays, though sadly its still stuck in the UK due to bad weather etc. At this stage what's another few weeks:)

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...01218-1216.jpg

2.2e 911 engine, complete with Fibreglass tinware, RSR style bracket and also a pair of weld-in mounting brackets. It looks the part.....

Chris

I eventually got round to picking up some welding gas. First job was to make the seat bases.

I kept the original early slider bracket (on the sill side) and constructed a basic square frame, with additional weight saving holes drilled

Clamped and tack welded in place...
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1000604.jpg

Finish the weld and clean up
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1000606.jpg

I got hold of some later sliders. They required alittle bit of drilling to fit the seat base, but now fit into the new frame and seat base a treat.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1000615.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1000614.jpg

Next job, tackle the central filler neck on the petrol tank

Thanks
Chris

Hi Chris,

David in Portland here. I found some good "before pics" of the car on my computer, let me know if you want me to email them to you.

Subscribed (better late than never)

Chris,

I love the height your car is resting at. Do you know the front and rear fender arc measurements? Sorry if this data has already been mentioned prior... Great project and attention to detail!

Thanks,

Steve

once again, I am glad to be here......Awesom job.

Quote:

Originally Posted by earlyaircooled (Post 5775833)

Hi Chris,

David in Portland here. I found some good "before pics" of the car on my computer, let me know if you want me to email them to you.

Hi David, good to hear form you!

It would be great to see those pictures, I will send you my new email address.

Cheers
Chris

Quote:

Originally Posted by la2mtl (Post 5776039)

Just went out to the garage with tape measure in hand but realised that I put the car up on axle stands yesterday in preperation to fit the brakes and engine:rolleyes:

Sorry I don't know the measurements off hand, there was not an exact science involved I just adjusted it to what looked good. It will have to be adjusted and setup properly once the engine etc is installed, but it should be fairly close to what it is at the moment.

If its any help the wheels are 16'' on 195/50 r16 tyres

Chris

Chris,

Thanks anyway. I sent you a pm with a couple specific questions regarding suspension upgrades. I guess depending on my tire/wheel combination I will have adjust to my preferred ride height.

Steve

Not the biggest job in the grand scheme of things...but its looks abit better than the length of wood, and also allows me to get the petrol tank in and out easier during welding

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1000631.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1000633.jpg

Chris

That was just surface rust.......right Chris?

I like the hood prop, another nice invention.

Looks like primer gray may have been some inspiration for the color, good choice.

All of us with this "disease" see the diamond in the rough....I have a bad case of it too.

Chris:
Me again....unless I am mistaken your seat bracket fab pics show the "L" shaped lever arm for fore/aft adjustment....to be on the tunnel-side slider of the driver's seat. Why?.....wouldn't it be better on the left-slider side, nearer the door?:confused:

:)

Its on the tunnel side so you don't catch it with your shoe while swinging your legs in & out.

Len

:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT (Post 5794681)

:)

Its on the tunnel side so you don't catch it with your shoe while swinging your legs in & out.

Len

:)

Yep, thats it. Good point:)

Seriously though, theres no particular reason. Its far enough under the seat that it does not interfere with the gear stick or hand brake, yet it works fine.

Funny....the factory then does it the "wrong" way.....