My ongoing UGLY ENGINE CLEANUP thread - Page 4

Gogar · 09:40 AM

HEY, that wasn't too bad.

Thanks, Bill and Steve and Jess at the last minute there.

This picture demonstrates the importance of proper lubrication.

Another few hours of actual working time, and I think i'll start it.

Bob Kontak · Bob Kontak's Garage

Turst not, the Rebel Alliance, I am your true father, Luke.

Thanks much Gogar - Nice job!! Early this week I was scuffing up the engine cover to paint it in 22 Line Glasurit Guards Red and saw your Darth pics and, especially noted "Anything but red" and I liked that. So, off to Lowes and $11 later had the professional Rustoleum primer and gloss black paint.

Ed Mayo rebuilt my 915 this spring (Thanks Tom P) and the engine was just sitting there, so I found a powder coating factory in Canal Fulton, Ohio (Racks Coating) and after two waves of parts - maybe 30 in total - and $350 later (including grease clean up and sand blasting) I am ready to reassemble. The intake runners are coated in "reflective chrome" as is the fan shroud strap.

The big job was the engine compartment clean up. Major hours into that. Finally used my pressure washer along with adhesive remove (gallon size at Home Depot) to finish. That is the way to go for those doing this. Below is a pic of the engine bay. More pics as I progress.

C911S - Superb!! Nice to see someone in my age range. I thought I was the only one.

Jandrews · 05-15-2009, 03:59 PM

Looks amazing Jeremy! I'll bet you are ready to fire it up! I can tell you that it will be a joy to work on with it clean like that!

JA

Gogar · 05-15-2009, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jandrews

Looks amazing Jeremy! I'll bet you are ready to fire it up! I can tell you that it will be a joy to work on with it clean like that!

JA

Thanks, John. It will be super-fun to work on, for the first 1000 miles, until it's likely just as dirty as it started.

Bob Kontak · Bob Kontak's Garage

Gogar,

Did you resolve the JB weld issue? I have the same sort of glue on my 81SC, but back by the engine oil cooler. The glue was there in 1997 when I did a top end job and I left it alone. No change in it's integrity since then. I wonder if it's a casting fix at the factory? I am not going to touch it. Odd, though.

What did you end up doing with the charcoal cannister? Mine ties into the air box rather than the shroud. The hose fell apart when I pulled the engine. I received the same feedback through inquiry as you -don't remove.

Regards,

Bob

Gogar · 05-16-2009, 11:40 AM

Bob,

I cleaned, scuffed, and smeared EVEN MORE JB weld on that spot, and I'll cross my fingers. I'm sure it should be ok, until some fateful day in the future, which I have already named "the day I start looking for a 3.0."

As for the canister stuff, I think I'll cross that bridge in the next day or so. the lines up front right near the canister are in bad shape, so were I to hook it back up I know I'll have to replace at least one of them.

The car ran fine without, and I never smelled any fumes. But That's not all there is to it, I suppose.

Your engine looks great!

Gogar · 05-16-2009, 04:06 PM

I was looking at the first page of this thread, and since then I checked up on my wiring stuff.

My Cold Start Valve was 're-wired' a bit, I think. What happens is it gets power from the yellow wire on the starter, and the ground side of the CSV goes to the thermotime switch on my left chain cover. If the engine is cold, thermotime switch grounds and the CSV will operate on startup. Engine is warm, thermotime switch is open, CSV will not operate on startup. Works like a charm. So, even though the thermotime is being used in a 'non-traditional' way, so to speak, it still is getting used.

And, I also have the hand throttle, too.

Gogar · 06:31 AM

Fire Extinguisher? Check.
Multimeter? Check.
9ish quarts of oil? Check.

Lump in throat? Check.

OH YEAH. THAT'S RIGHT.

A little smoky for about 5 minutes, as expected.

So, first I threw in one of those 5.5 quart containers of oil.

Turns out I hadn't cranked on the oil line clamps (tank to cooler) quite enough. No problem.

Added up to about 8 quarts, unplugged the CDI, and turned the key on.

Fuel pump ran . . . funny noises from accumulator and fuel distributor. Went away in 15 seconds. Perfect. No leaks at all.

Crank for a while. OOOOOOOH, starter sounds great. Healthy.

plug in CDI, crank.
Crank for a minute, start up. A few rattly sounds; is that the tensioners filling up? Maybe I didn't build enough pressure. This engine has sat for 6 months with no oil in it.

Rattly sounds subside after oh, 10 seconds. COOL!

It runs like I remember. Checked the timing and I was about 3ATDC, good. Unplug vacuum line for fun. Goes up WAYYY more than 10degrees, but I'll recheck timing tomorrow.

Little tiny flakes of powder coat in my eye as I check the timing. I deserve that.

Charging problems, GONE! Woo hoo!!!!!. 12.8 at idle.

And, I ran the car for 15 minutes, got up to about 150 degrees and not a drop of oil. I know that's because it's still making its pathway down the case, but that's ok. Gotta live it up for a while!

zotman72 · 05-19-2009, 05:55 AM

What is the word on the sport muffler addition? Should not leave out 10 hp on a 140 hp engine, especially when you live at 5280' (OK ~ 8 hp). And that sound.... YMMV

Gogar · 05-19-2009, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zotman72

What is the word on the sport muffler addition? Should not leave out 10 hp on a 140 hp engine, especially when you live at 5280' (OK ~ 8 hp). And that sound.... YMMV

I'm mulling it over. This did sound kind of "docile", FWIW.

However, I'm not sure I want to wrestle the HE's to line up with the muffler inlets again. That was brutal. Thank goodness for ratcheting tie-downs.