Oil line Change

[JINKATIN]

Hello everyone,

I am planning to change a couple of my oil lines on my 86 Carrera. This is a first for me, so I wanted to know if I am suppose to put anything on the oil line threads or not?

Thanks,

Jinkatin
86 911 Carrera

[kodioneill]

a little never seize wouldn't hurt. what lines specifically?

[KTL]

Which lines are you referring to, and do you mean "put anything on the oil line threads" when removing or installing?

If you're removing the oil lines that connect to the engine sump location and the thermostat, you definitely want to put some penetrating lubricant on the fittings before removal. Also, know that the threads are not always the problematic part of removal. More often than not, the shoulder of the compression fitting (underneath the collar nut) likes to get corroded and covered in road debris. This makes removing the oil line tough because the nut grabs the oil line and makes the line spin when you loosen the nut. I always strike the fittings with a rubber mallet to break free the debris or corrosion.

When installing the new lines, without question you should put antiseize paste on the threads and also on the shoulder of the oil line underneath the nut.

[JINKATIN]

The Thermostat to engine oil line.

Thanks guys I really do appreciate the help.


Jinkatin
86 911 Carrera

[Tigerrat]

I had a problem getting a new line the correct length. Two tries and I had to take it to a local shop and get new rubber and crimps to get it right. If the hard line and threads are good you might want to consider cutting to the chase and just getting the rubber replaced locally. Good luck. Ken

[JINKATIN]

Thanks, Tigerrat


Jinkatin
86 911 Carrera

[Grady Clay]

Kevin is right on about the area under the nut. The space between the nut and the fitting needs to be full of grease or anti-seize in order for it to not collect and retain water, causing the fitting to be difficult to remove. (The same is true for brake pipe fittings.) Of course the threads need to be full of anti-seize.

What is the consensus for the steel-to-aluminum connections at the thermostat? What flavor of anti-seize works best (or works at all)? This is reminiscent of ’72 and earlier aluminum oil line nuts on the ’69-’72 aluminum front oil cooler.

Best,
Grady

[KTL]

Grady,

Believe it or not, i've had good results with run-of-the-mill Permatex antiseize. It's got good staying power and good temp rating. I've used it on my cyl. head exhaust studs and oil line fittings for a number of years now and it lasts a long time.

I've also had good results with Never-Seez (?) paste. It's a really thick nickel-based paste that is almost glue-ish. It's got a very high temp rating and lasts well. Does not wash out whatsoever.

I've not had good results with Wurth CU800 copper-based paste because it gets a bit oily and doesn't want to stick to the threads. Instead it just gets wiped clean by the mating threads and pushes it's way off.

When removing the oil line from the thermostat to the engine, you're going to find that the two oil lines that join near the oil tank are quite difficult to get apart. This is the one that you have to disconnect when dropping the engine. This union of two lines is right where a lot of water and crud get slung rearward by the rear tire. So this union is ripe for being a real bugger to get loose. I've had to resort to two pipe wrenches on this one before. And one of the pipe wrenches had to be smacked plenty hard a lot of times with a small sledgehammer. So get ready to get ugly if you have to take this one apart.