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MSD 6-AL installed

Could not get engine to idle seemed lean. Decided to go into the distributor, had noticed alot of play and sure enough the plate area surrounding the shaft has worn down and worn into the cast piece as well. I will attempt to shim this area and take out the extra play. Here are some pics will update later if this fixes the problem.

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Congratulations on getting this beast started. Huge accomplishment, but then again, I don't need to tell you that as you already know it.

5 months of progress
 

Posting pics from last five months of progress to show what all I have been working on.
Radiant panel to help shield ignition, accumulator/filter area. Early door caps striped and flocked with door panels mounted. Covers made and painted for front passenger area over oil tank and rear panel with hoses for naca ducts. Some numbers and graphic stuff on car... etc.

Now for the pics

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Ran engine up to temp several times probably hour or two total with Brad Penn break in oil. Need to drain , adjust valves, put in 20/50 oil , then off to the dyno for three runs,,,,,,,,,,get some data.................. This is where it gets interesting

Absolutely awesome build.

Stamina isn't the word...

Please post dyno stats.

Any News SmileWavy

My Happy Place
 

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:D Got the car out to HPR for PCA DE last weekend in April. This was first time car had been driven more than a few feet. So I was probably more focused on what was going on mechanically than really enjoying driving the car. Did five out of seven sessions and would have done the other two as well but did have a few things to sort out. Had a oil leak at the banjo fittiing for the cam line. Tightened banjo bolt and seemed to solve that other than some residual oil. Shifter linkage came loose in one of the turns on a downshift. Its a Hargett shifter, did some fine adjustment and tightened everthing on shifter, also put shorter detent spring in trannie for getting into reverse easier. Overall shifting much better now. Car weighs 2407 lbs with 5 gallons of fuel and no driver. Not superlight but almost 600 pounds less than a stock 930. Running stock boost at .8 bar and its plenty for now. AFR's 11 to 12.5 Car handles great. As you can see in pics front valence was loose. Adding Dzus fastners to flares to solve that issue. Engine temp running on the track was around 180 to 185 but it was only 75 to 80 outside temp at track and three oil coolers in front does'nt hurt either. See how it does in July.

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This pic happened to be taken when shifter linkage had come completely off. Audi on my ass and I'm shifting the car by pulling and pushing the long connector shaft from the trannie. That was a hoot..................

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forgot this one, nice have pics of my car from somewhere other than my garage for the last 7 years.....

awesome! congratulations - that's got to feel GREAT!

Probably spliting hairs here, but if it were mine, I would like to see temps in the range of 200-210 as 180-185 is not hot enought to qickly "burn off" water and other contaminates.

And I really like your car!

Ronnie your making a good point about operating temp. I think it would be better as well to be at 200-210. I think probably will need to block off one or both small front coolers when its cool as it was in April here in Colorado. I figure once temps are in the 90's or higher my operating temps should stay in the higher range. Thx for the compliments on the car as well.

Just went through the entire thread and two words spring to mind: "congratulations" and "inspiring"!!

Thank you very much for sharing.

Ben.

Tadman,
Awesome work-of-art. I'd be very interested if you have found out how your water-to-air intercooler is working. Have you been able to take any readings of the air temps before and after the IC?
Thanks,

Dave, not currently reading the temps off of inlet or discharge for the intercooler. Its on my list to add and track from datalogger, probably a winter project. Next want to dyno and get some baseline numbers. I will probably get over on the turbo forum more at some point and post data to compare with others with 930's. Thx, Tad

930 Air Intake Mod
 

After looking at the airfilter tucked in that back left area got me to thinking how to maybe get better air flow and cooler air thru the decklid. I don't have the issue of big air/air intercooler on top and the space is there so this is what I came up with.
Started with a stock 930 air box, did some cutting.

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This top section will require more cuts to graft into the other section but here is basically how it will fit in. End section will bolt up as before.

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Then the intake section will be cut some more to allow an inlet to feed thru either by a long horizontal cone filter or just cut down a stock 930 filter to fit.

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Still alot of cutting and welding to do but this piece actual fits pretty well in relation to room available, can still get to mixture screw on top of fuel head for adjustment


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Still no dyno numbers yet, hopefully by next season. Car pulls strong from around 2000 rpm all the way to 6000 rpm with 1bar boost . AFR's lean mid range and rich WOT. Common issues for CIS but hopefully find a way smooth that out later.....

Awesome project, bit late now but there is a guy a few blocks from me that specializes in 934/935 and usually has some sweet parts for sale if anyone is looking?
SpezialMotorer-Engine Development

Air intake improvement ?
 

Airflow coming into to the air mixture bowl on CIS K jetronic has always seemed limited in its amount of flow and temp of air its passing in. Abandoning my attempt at just moving the filter and ducting to the the right side of the engine compartment which would not be of much significance anyway. While the two NACA ducts in the rear quarter windows are already feeding the water inter-cooler the next logical spot seemed to be the passenger window area. Location of the intake and filter can be easily moved so I can experiment with other locations. Took the car out around the block and terrorized the neighbors. Outside temps were in the 60's before this cold front and snow came in this weekend. Some interesting differences and sounds as well. Intake really resonates airflow feeding in when on boost, loud but this car is loud any way. Boost spooled up quicker. I have driven this car in cool temps before and I know the difference in performance that makes but this was not the same it was better more responsive.

On a side note added sensors to log intake and charge air to see how this water inter-cooler performs compared to an air/air inter-cooler. R&D fun...........

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Tight fit under rear shelf area..mainly transiton from 4" to 3" hose
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Intake components: Silicone 5" to 4" 90deg elbow, 4" to 3" reducer to fit 3" hose, Spectre $20 brake duct and K&N Xstream filter. 4" hose would obviously be more air flow but it will require modifying back shelf area some, not ready for that yet.

Hi Tadman,

I am just starting a 911 project and was curious, now that you've lived with it for a year or more, how do you like the ISIS electrical system you installed? Is it everything it's made out to be & has it been trouble/glitch free for you?

Thanks,

Tom

Hi Tom, well its name changed for starters to infinity box for good reason I suppose.
The system installed nicely and without a hitch and is very adaptable to changes and easy to troubleshoot a loose connection or blown fuse etc... It is goof idea to install a cutoff switch due to the constant system drain when system is on even though its a small amount. I had one of my switches programmed as a cold start for my CIS system to send fuel for 4 seconds and it works great. So the possiblities are there to do away with alot of relays and traditonal switches should you choose to do
so and another plus is the weight savings.

Thanks Tadman,

I noticed the name change when I looked up their website - unfortunate original name choice!

One of the things I really LIKE about our older cars is the lack of computers and hi-tech stuff. The Infinity Box system is intriguing however because it does seem pretty logical - assuming it works. I also like less wiring and the versatility potential.

I've downloaded the 3-cell system manual and read through it so I just know enough to be dangerous at this point. It doesn't talk much about reprogramming the input/output nodes - but it's possible I assume? I haven't done a full inventory of exactly what my electrical needs will be yet, but it looked like most of the stock programming would work. My car is headed towards being more of a race car, but still will be street legal, so all typical lighting functions need to work etc... but still pretty bare bones in terms of accessory circuits.

You've found the durability to be good too so far?

Thanks,
Tom

4 year update
 

I was sitting around and got on pelican forum and looked back at my thread and could not believe how much time has gone by since I posted where I was on my car. A lot of tinkering over the last few years for sure. I was playing around with airflow to the engine, intercooler, cis etc. I moved cooling for intercooler making a setup for the area under the tail. NACA ducts are moving air to engine bay, (2) UNI foam filters on the CIS which seems to work well. Moved MSD to inside rear area after failures which I assume was due to extreme heat and no problems now. Added 6 CHT sensors to data logger. Lastly changed the headers to 934 style with a larger T4 flange. Laminova intercooler also supplies water cooling to a Borg Warner EFR 7670 turbo. Added slider windows and my favorite race teams livery.
I was told once race cars are never finished, but I think Im close, and it only took me 12 years Lol.

Happy New Year

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