Carbs are on I have to measure the CC squirted and go from there but a little hurdle.

[BReyes]

Carbs are on I have to measure the CC squirted and go from there but a little hurdle and couple of Webers questions regarding going from being on a 2.0 and now onto 2.2, and freshly rebuilt (several months ago).

Do you prime the webers. Zots rebuilt them. #4 did not squirt fuel like all the others. Removed a a couple #4 jets all looks like new. New hardware too, all hardware reanodized, and PP rebuild kit. New Fuel lines. Gas tank removed and cleaned very well. Line running through the tunnel was not replaced.

I am looking into getting a manometer next week to apply my knowlegde learned by researching how to adjust webers.

Where do I apply compressed air. And which jets to remove. Or do i remove the whole carb cover to look in there. I expect he replaced one of my bowls as i mentioned it to him was probably going to be needed. When installed new fuel pump up front and put in fuel, immediately eliminated few very small leaks in the newly installed fuel lines(front fuel filter and the right side accelerator nut, and rear clear style fuel filter.

The carbs are perfect except for a 2MM tear in one of the fuel filter in the Weber. Very difficult for a particle to enter there though. I need a couple filters. Only avail from Pmo, or do they even have them?

They are 40s.

What size jets do I need for a 2.2. Carbs came off 2.0, but don't knwo what they were from (car was and E so I know it is not original to the 2.0) It has 30 venteturi's. Do I call PMO or find jets locally?

Thanks.

Regards,

[2.70Racer]

Bernard,
This is from PMO's list of recomended list of jet sizes.
2.2E 30mm vent, 125 main, 180 air, 55 idle, F26 emulsion.
2.2T 30mm vent, 125 main, 180 air, 55 idle, F26 emulsion.
2.2S 32mm vent, 130 main, 180 air, 55 idle, F3 emulsion.

I would verify your carbs are at one of the above listing.
Since your carbs are recently rebuilt, you shouldn't have to worry about passages blocked, dirt, etc.

Webers are very sensitive to fuel pressure and float levels.
I would have a fuel pressure regulator and gauge installed and set for 3.5 lbs.
PMO supplies a simple accurate regulator and gauge.
It also allows the use of your existing Porsche fuel pump.

I get the best results using the float level glass tube that attaches to each float bowl.
PMO recognized the importance of float levels and built a sight glass into PMO carbs.
PMO also can supply this float tool.
If your carbs have been rebuilt by a reputable company, I would expect the float bowl fuel level is correct.
Checking is simple with the glass tube tool.
PMO works through Fax and Email. They do not list the phone number for the general public. They will respond to customers. And they know Webers.
If you need any jets or tools, order them from PMO.
Then you'll be a customer with the benefit of advice from PMO.

I would check the jets listed above against what you have. If they are close to what is shown, close being within one size of the list, I would then set the fuel pressure to 3.5lbs. Check closely for leaks before continuing.

It is likely you may need to order the proper size jets as shown on the list.
Get them from PMO. You'll know they are correct.

With the above accomplished you are now ready to start the engine and go through the set up for idle, synchronizing, etc.
I assume you have that worked out.
PMO also supplies their customers with a thorough set of instructions.

[BReyes]

Received the Sync, and float bowl gauge.
Spoke with PMO.

The mains, idle, emulsion, pump jets etc are all as you guys have posted.

Motor cranked up on second crank and idled at 900. Timing , dwell, timing done.

The car drives but I did not drive it off the property. Couple of issues to work on. The carbs balance perfectly, but may take a step back to adjust valves next. Just wanted to say I am into the carb adjustment portion and that with the inital settings and your help from other threads and OP I have confidence with Webers to trouble shoot mine any time.

Thanks again.

[1QuickS]

There is a ball check valve that secures each squirter into the throttle body. If the check valve does not seat correctly then that squirter will draw in air when the throttle is closed. When you check squirter operation the bad check valve will cause the jet to sputter fuel instead of stream it out.

Fuel bowls are contaminated from three sources: 1) debris getting past your fuel filter (install a good fuel filter just before your carbs and don't rely on the internal screens); 2) air with debris coming into the carb from poor sealing of the intake air filters (I had rust in the stock air cleaner where the rubber seal was - the channel was rusted through and small flecks of rust was sucked into the fuel bowl) and 3) the air vent pipes in the top of the carb body rust (mostly internally due to condensation and the thin zinc plating on the inside diameter of these tubes) and this rust drops directly down and into the fuel bowls.