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Little History:
I have to make a decision and not sure which way to go. I picked up a beautiful 1975 US Carrera that is in beautiful original condition. I have the paper work since new. This is a 4 owner car and had excellent maintenance. The second owner had the engine completely rebuilt (blueprinted) in 1979. The car at that time had 73,000 miles. The third owner had updated chain tensioners placed. The car now has 112,000 miles on it. The third owner had the car since 1987, has maintained it well. It has had very few miles put on it in the last 20 years. When i purchased the car I took it to a reputable shop which changed the transmission oil, completed a brake service (new brake fluid), did a leak down test on all cylinders which were fine and aligned the car. The car has been running with mobile one synthetic (I called the previous owner's shop). The car runs perfectly and has several oil leaks The Question... The shop that i take the car too has recommended a tune up be completed. He said that they could drop the engine very easily which would make the tune up easier (and cost less) and then fix repair leaks (which would cost alot) which he said were in common places requiring engine disassembly. He would also reseat the valves and complete a litany of things. My question is...should i just change the oil and keep things as is knowing that the car will only be driven lightly on sunny days and has some several small leaks or should i consider this costly complete repair addressing the leaks and knowing the cars age? Thanks for your comments. I always enjoy the insight!!! Greg ____________ 75 US Carrera 03 Cab 2 69 Camaro Pace Car |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 521
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Not sure why your shop would be recommending that the valves be reseated if the leakdown test came back fine. Not sure where the oil leaks are from, but my experience is that most are from the valve covers, and bits on the top, and you don't have to rebuild the engine to fix those. You might be able to fix many of the leaks without removing the engine. Without some compelling reason to rebuild the engine, unless the leaks really bother you, I would personally wait on the rebuild. It isn't that hard to do the tune up with the engine in the car, and would certainly would be a lot less expensive.
-------- Chuck 96 C4S 75 S 70 S
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Chuck ------- 70 & 75 911S 96 993 C4S '10 F-150 |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pittsford, NY
Posts: 3,701
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Did the mechanic identify where the leaks are? You could tackle some yourself if they involve oil return tubes, valve cover gaskets, thermostat etc. Secondly, you might consider going away from synthetic oil and putting in some Brad Penn 20-50, which you can search for here and read up on the "ultimate motor oil thread" or google LN Engineering and read oil comparisons there. I'd be inclined to tackle what I could do myself with the engine in place and then re-evaluate the degree of oil leaking.
edit: please put in your location. You might also ask for a reference for a GOOD shop in your area from members that may be close.
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Tony G 2000 Boxster S Last edited by tonythetarga; 03-06-2009 at 05:55 AM.. |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
Posts: 3,059
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Doesn't sound necessary, but if you got the $$$, time and inclination...maybe you should just go for it and get it over with. Having a dry ride is a pleasure in itself.
But if the leaks aren't bad (drips, as opposed to puddles) and you just want to drive it...put it off and drive the thing!!! Besides, P-cars don't leak...they're just marking their territory.
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
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Quote:
You have a car with just over 40K on a documented rebuild, that has been upgraded and well maintained. The leak down numbers are fine and, apparently, the engine shows no abnormal performance symptoms, yet he wants to "reseat the valves?" Has he given you any test results or diagnostic reasons why they need to be reseated? Just where are the "common oil leaks that require engine disassembly?" Has he identified them to you? How bad are the leaks? There are common leak points, such as front main seals, that require an engine drop so maybe his claim is partially legitimate but for the money involved, I'd suggest you get some very specific answers. Maybe he is talking of removing ancillary parts to get to leaks when he speaks of "engine disassembly"--like crankcase breather tube gaskets--that can best be addressed by an engine drop. He's probably completely honest, but considering the potential expense it might be wise to ask for some specific answers before you give the go-ahead. And don't forget, once the engine is out, there is the inevitable "while you have it out, why don't you..." temptation you will face.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip Last edited by ossiblue; 03-06-2009 at 06:02 PM.. |
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Wayah Road Warrior
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,536
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I would get rid of the Mobile 1 oil. That may solve your leak problem right there.
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02 996tt White 87 930 GP White (Sold) 87 911 Targa Guards Red(Sold) |
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Drive it -- Be happy.
My 964 marked it's territory like a 2 day old diaper. My P-guy said until you want to spend big $$$ just enjoy the car and keep the oil level up. He continues to get my business because of his straight forward approach to repairs. Everything is explained and he doesn't add unnecessary costs. If the work on the car is needed now, do it - if it's busy work to keep his doors open then look for a different shop.
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1987 Carrera Coupe |
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you see Arthur...
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: West Vancouver BC & San Juan Capistrano CA
Posts: 672
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What p-cars leak oil? This is news to me. I recently had my motor out for a clutch, and replaced all the seals then, but if you don't need to drop the motor just live with the leaks and drive it like you stole it.
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J 82 911 SC, Cat bypass, Flowmaster 1 in 2 out lightweight flywheel and backdated heat 06 Cayenne S 00 ML 55 AMG Santa Cruz Bullit |
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You guys are great. I will definately investigate furthur. We are finally starting to thaw here in chicago so when I get the ole girl out of storage and take her in, I will get a list of the leaks and the specific issue that the shop thought needed to be addressed. I know the leaks are minor (drips not puddles) so I will likely head the advise of everyone and if there are no major issues, then I will not go the big buck service and just enjoy the car. As i had said earlier, the car will only be used very lightly and gently.
I am in the chicago area. There are two shops that i have worked with. They both appear to be excellent. Perfect Power in Buffalo Grove Illinois and Fischer in Barrington. Any thougts on these two shops? Thanks... Greg __________________ 75 US Carrera 03 Cab 2 69 Camaro Pace Car |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northern Chicago Suburb
Posts: 16
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Don't know either of these shops by you might also try Lou's garage in Lake Forest on 41. They have experience with 911s, are good and reasonably priced. I've turned a couple of people onto them (one with a leaky 1980 SC-turned out to be a bad oil pressure switch which they fixed working blind with the engine and fuel injection in place).
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"...the car will only be used very lightly and gently. "
I've found my car runs a lot better when driven with, um, shall we say 'gusto'?
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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Greg,
I have used Fischer Motors (Barrington) a number of times and they are an excellent and respected shop. They are pretty connected with the local (Chicago) Chapter of the PCA and do a lot of club racing. With their visibility they can't afford to be anything but top notch and they are. Having said that they are also expensive. I do as much of my own work as I can and only use them when something is beyond my capabilities or time constraints. Kinda like using a lawyer only when you REALLY need to. My car ('72 911 T) has leaked some oil for all of the 10 +/- years that I have owned it. I look at it the same way that people used to look at old Harley's --> "If it ain't leakin' there's none in it". I'll fix the leaks next time I have to drop the engine for something important. As a first step I would lose the Mobile 1 and put in "dino" oil and others have suggested. This helped out with my leaks. Drive it and enjoy it! |
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If there is not any major leak, I would live with it.
Be careful, even shops would good reputations can have a bad mechanic/poor practice. Ask lots of questions and possibly take it for a second opinion.
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Ray H. 1979 911SC Coupe 2000 986 |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 5,857
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Yeah, depends on the leak location and "flow".... An oil return tube, you may even fix yourself... Something trickier, you probably cannot... I'd apply the same logic I apply to my 83 (it does not leak but it "eats" oil). $6000 rebuild or $2.50 of 20W50 every month ?
Your call... Of course if it's 1 qt per week on your floor, well, it may be time to save some $$$$. Mine at least has the decency of burning its oil instead of dripping all over ;-) |
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911's don't leak oil, they mark their territory ;-)
Chris 73 911 E |
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Canucks Fan
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Posts: 2,216
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Sounds like your mechanic saw your fat wallet and wants a piece of it , change the oil to Swepco or Brad Penn and see what happens , if your a do it yourself guy most of the leaks can be fixed cheaply with you doing the work, if you don't wrench then find another guy , there lots of help on this line and that guy sounds outa line IMO
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 490
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Yup, "...reseating the valves..." sounds like they were trying to blow the proverbial smoke up a certain part of your anatomy.
My SC marks its territory just like a lot of others do. Oil is cheap so just keep an eye on it.
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1982 SC...Guards Red + Linen |
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