915 Shift fork check with an unexpected outcome

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

Please comment about the G50? What should I look for when presented with a potential candidate? I know there are some updates recommended for the G50. Should I look for these or is it something that can easily be done afterwards?

After what's happened with my 915 I'm inclined to have the G50 opened up and inspected by a trans specialist before I part with any money. I know that's probably not necessary with a G50 but it can't hurt.

Now you got me! When I sold my shop to Marc in '99 we had not even considered doing a 915 to G 50 conversion - all of the 915s were easily fixed, and it was still a relatively inexpensive (usually less than $2500, sometimes only $1600-1800) that we did regularly. As you do homework on this job keep in touch and I'll comment on the different aspects. The "upgrades" that you've heard about are primarily linkage and throw out bearing fork related, I don't think that anything internal is required.

After you put your 915 together you will probably get some R&P noise, hopefully it will last long enough to get you on your way to the conversion.

[sc_rufctr]

Just one last question. Since I'm taking it apart anyway, would it be worth flipping the synch bands in my gearbox?

I know you said you never recommend this but I figured in my case it couldn't make things any worse. And it may even shift a bit better until I swap out the box.

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

Just one last question. Since I'm taking it apart anyway, would it be worth flipping the synch bands in my gearbox?

I know you said you never recommend this but I figured in my case it couldn't make things any worse. And it may even shift a bit better until I swap out the box.

Flipping might make your shifting much worse! The sliders and synchros have all worn together, if you change that relationship it might be ugly!

[sc_rufctr]

Hi all... Just thought this would be of interest. These are the differential bolts as removed from my final drive.

Notice that 5 out of 12 have broken in the same way. The threads of the 3 heads with the locking tabs attached were still in their threads in the crown gear. All three came out by hand. No tools!... The remaining un broken bolts were all just finger tight.

Looking at these bolts I agree with Peter Zimmermans original reply that they were put in using an impact wrench. If you think about it all of the heads were broken off. That would take about more then 200ftps to do by hand...

Amazingly the thing held together and was quiet... After this I think I'm going to start going to church again