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Where to start?
Hi everyone. I picked up a 1969 911e that has been sitting for over 25 years. I started by dumping the tank and I'm going to have it dipped at a local radiator shop to ensure it's fully cleaned. I've also been replacing the fuel lines that I can get to. Other than cleaning the plugs and replacing the oil is there anything that NEEDS to be done before I put power to her and give it a crank?
Any help on how to access the eletronic fuel pump on this year is also appreciated. And finally, this is an AZ car so there's no rust to speak of except for the front pan where the gas tank sits and the torsion bars connect. Any ballpark figures for having that replaced? Thanks for the help! |
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A quick inspection of the electrics is probably a good idea. Old distributor cap and wires could cause problems, especially if any insulation has cracked. Same for any vacuum lines (if that car had anything using vacuum. Oh, and the fan belt is probably shot, replace that before you crank.
I'd prefer if one of the engine builder's seconded this, but you probably want to follow the post-rebuild startup procedures to ensure you have oil pressure. Just a thought. Lastly, before taking it out on the road, I'd make sure the brakes are good. I'm betting the fluid and hoses are shot.
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Don't Lift... Don't Lift... Don't Lift ![]() ![]() ![]() '75 Targa in "Arrest Me" Red, 3.0SC ('79) engine, Bilsteins, Turbo Tie-rods, SSIs into 2-1 M&K muffler... and looking for my next upgrade. |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 452
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Don't forget to re-torque the lug nuts and check the tires (rather, replace the tires). Dry rot is hard to see and quite deadly.
Good luck.
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pozee |
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First thing to do is: Post pictures
![]() Lots of great people to help you out here. If you have a problem someone else had it too do a search and you will find a lot of great information. A new thread is always good too, but it's just not the same without pictures. Just my 0.0168677 US cents (Hey I'm Canadian)
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1985 911 Cabriolet 1970 911E Coupe |
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Now in 993 land ...
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1. I would replace the ignition tune up components (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) and change the oil.
2. While the plugs are out, spray some oil or better marvel mystery oil in there to help lube up and possibly unstick some of the rings. 3. With the plugs out (will turn easier due to lack of compression) turn the engine over manually with a wrench to the crank pulley bolt. If you can not turn it manually, put the car in a high gear and rock / push the car forward. I would not use a starter for first turning, as it has a lot of power and may break rings that are stuck. 4. Flush the fuel line, replace the filter. 5. Hook up gas tank with fresh tank or a small canister with gas. (I have run a lot of old heaps off a canister to evaluate engine condition. On some "projects" you need to know if cleaning the tank out is even worth the hassle.) 6. Replace battery with good used or new, make sure all contacts are clean. 7. Put plugs back along with all ignition. 8. Fire! Run at 2000 rpm. 9. Expect a lot of smoke -white with blue. Also expect some minor valve train noise. Only shut it down if there is knocking or a lot of noise or if things overheat. If the smoke does not clear up after 20 minutes, you are in trouble. Reviving old cars that sat for a long time is one of my favorites. Unfortunately, often you find the reason why they were parked in the first place. But I have had some great luck before too - I once bought a very nice MGB for a song that got parked and all it needed was the ingintion coil hooked up the right way! It would die on the old owner after 20 minutes of driving and he thought there was an engine problem ... George |
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Here are some pics.
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Now in 993 land ...
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I am green with envy. That is a beaut. Please let us know how it went!
George |
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sancho
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 129
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car looks great I hope it all works out well....
keep us posted |
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Thanks for the help! I'm hoping to start it up in the next few weeks and then discover what the real issues are....
I need to figure out how to get to the fuel pump and I've traced a line that disappears somewhere around the rear drivers wheel well. Any suggestions? |
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Max Sluiter
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On my 1971 911S the fuel pump is tucked up on top of the driver's side rear sway bar mount. I think on all other 911s, it is above the sheet metal cover for the steering rack.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Now in 993 land ...
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Not sure for your year, but the later cars all had the pump on the underside of the car right behind the fuel tank. There is a sheet metal cover protecting it.
George |
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sancho
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 129
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victorviking,
I think the fuel pump is located above the splash panel between the front wheels. when removing this pannel you need to support it with something, it is a lot heavier than it looks. this is where the fuel pump is on later model cars, but I think it would be a good place to start, as it is not difficult to remove.. best of luck |
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Registered
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Found it! Thanks for the help. It was seized up from 25 year old gas that had turned to goop.
I opend it up and cleaned it and now it's humming (pic is pre-cleaning) So I think I've gotten the fuel system back in order all the lines have been replaced or blown out clean. Is there a way I should prime the fuel system before I attempt to start it up or will the fuel pump do all the work? (this is an MFI car) |
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Max Sluiter
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The fuel pump will fill up right away. The fuel fills the line from the tank naturally and the pump is strong enough to push the fuel the rest of the way.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,653
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Brakes! No car that has been parked for 25 years should be driven w/o doing the brake system.
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Autodidactic user
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 1,298
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Quote:
In addition to the other advice you've received, I would also replace every rubber fuel, vapor, oil or brake line before my first drive. After 25 years they will all be dry rotted and useless.
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Please help the MFI community keep the Ultimate MFI resources thread and the Mechanical fuel injection resource index up to date. Send me a PM and I'll add your materials and suggestions. ![]() 1973 911E Targa (MFI) |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
Posts: 3,059
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visiting this thread for the first time, and got a look at your car. What a find, great looking ride. Good luck.
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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Uh oh something blew!
I had it cranking over Sunday night after going through the fuel system, etc. The starter would give me about 1-2 revolutions and then quit. So I thought "maybe it needs more juice" so this morning I hooked up an 800CA battery connected by two set of jumpers (this is a two battery car) and then for the extra umph I hooked up my battery charger in "engine start" mode. I got about 1/4 of a rev and then nothing - and I mean nothing, no light no fuel pump wipers, etc. I disconnected everything and checked the fuses in the front and in the rear and they looked ok - though I have no experience with cylindrical fuses like that but I'm assuming I'd see a breakage like in newer fuse styles. Any ideas of where to look or what I may have damaged - besides my "give it more power" ego? PS - The concerns are noted. I will be moving onto to breaks, etc well before this thing ever actually hits the road. I just wanted to see if I could get it breathing first. |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 11,239
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What's the story on the long slumber?
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David 1972 911T/S MFI Survivor |
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My understanding is that it failed AZ emissions back in 1983 and has been parked ever since. I was hoping to get it started to discover what the "real" reason is...
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