3.6L Motor & Brake Upgrade: Few lessons learned

[mnmasotto]

Well it all started when I dyno'd my modified 3.2L Carrera motor and was somewhat disappointed with the results. I had just finished a 14K rebuilt on my 3.2L motor with most of the usual bolt on hardware: SSI's, Custom SW Chip, MAF, ported heads, Intake plenum work, 964 cams, etc. Although it was better than stock it wasn't enough. This combined all the posts lately about Pelicans motor transplants caused me to take the plunge.

It started with a modified 1995 3.6L motor with recent rebuild, ported heads, blue printed and balanced bottom end with Carrillo Rods, 1 7/8 headers with Custom Fabspeed Twin Mufflers, 993RS Cams, new valves and Ti valve retainers and solid lifters. The build sheet on the motor was priced at 50K. Unfortunately, the intake manifold, AFM, ECU and wiring harness are from a 1994 964. I know, not optimum but it runs well. The motor dyno'd at 325 HP at the rear wheels in the previous car.

Notice how dirty the engine is. The previous owner drove the car with a significant oil leak. I tried to capture a photo of the inside of the intake ports so you could see the porting work, however, my camera would not focus correctly.





My recommendation when buying a used 3.6L motor is have plenty of spare money left over to fix and replace all the unexpected little odds and ends during the transplant process. The initial inspection of the motor found quit a few things that needed repair. The motor had a major oil leak which necessitated extensive cleaning. This can be very time consuming! We completely resealed the motor, replaced all the rubber boots which attach the intake manifold to the heads, replaced damaged engine tin, replaced a few valve guide seals, complete tune up, plug wires, new fuel lines, flywheel and various hardware bits. I am sure there are a few item I neglected to mention but when finished, about $5000 in parts. This does not include the labor. I recommend buying a motor from either Instant G or Patrick Motorsports. They will make sure the motor is sealed and you can buy all the hardware as a kit. I did not do this and it cost me several thousand dollars in the end.

Finished product: Runs great and fast! Not 996TT fast, but FAST ENOUGH!

They had to custom fabricate a mount in order to use the Rennaire A/C with this motor. Works well but it is a tight fit.

Of course, I could not stop there so I upgraded the brakes. I bought a set of 993TT front brakes and a pair of 993 rear brakes. Since these brakes do not fit under the Factory 16" Fuchs I have had a set of Jeff Alton 17" wheels on order for the past 5 months.





One thing I need help with! How do I line up these antisqueel devices onto the back of the new brake pads so they line up with the pistons on the calipers? I will be using new brake pads so I am not sure exactly where to place them. It seems like there is not alot of room for error or they will not fit into the caliper.

[mb911]

Looks great sorry no help with the brakes but hopefully something should be shipping for you this week?

[Jess]

Put the shims into the calipers first.

[smokintr6]

NICE WORK!! Your car and conversion is probably the cleanest I've seen. I am just finishing a conversion similar to yours, but it is all stand alone engine management. I too spent quite a few more dollars in the conversion that I figured, but I had anticipated that. This is a great thread for people concidering doing a conversion. Once I decide if I like my new swap I'm going to get to work cleaning the wheel wells and detail the engine bay. Your pictures are inspirational.

Here's a link to a thread I started on Rennlist that details my conversion. It might be interesting to compare notes. I really need to finish updating it, as I should hopefully be on the road for the first time this weekend.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/911-forum/488079-spring-projects-engine-swap.html?highlight=spring+projects

[PatrickB]

What became of the old "3.2"?

[Bill Verburg]

As jess says, put the spiders in the calipers first then slide the pads in.

I wouldn't bother though, the spiders are a PIA to deal w/ and the pad material and cleanliness have more to do w/ noise than the spiders

[JeremyD]

I just left the spiders off - Where did you get the 993TT brake hats and caliper adapters?

[mnmasotto]

I bought the entire setup from Rob King at S-Car-Go in San Rafael, CA. The brakes are amazing. The modulation is incredible. However, I seem to have a problem with the parking brake. There is something rubbing inside the rear parking brake system that I can't seem to find. I believe the rears are 993 with 911 turbo rotors. Any help from you guys on where to look would be great.

[JeremyD]

Are the rear calipers just redrilled? Mine were a little bit of a tight fit - had to remove some of the pad material and widen the throats a tad with a dremel. The parking break works fine though

[ShakinJoe]

subd

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by mnmasotto

I bought the entire setup from Rob King at S-Car-Go in San Rafael, CA. The brakes are amazing. The modulation is incredible. However, I seem to have a problem with the parking brake. There is something rubbing inside the rear parking brake system that I can't seem to find. I believe the rears are 993 with 911 turbo rotors. Any help from you guys on where to look would be great.

You can check the parking brake shoes, but that's probably not what you are experiencing. The 993 rear caliper is a very tight fit on the 930 28mm rotor. It was designed for a 24mm rotor. So the pads have to be worn down a bit for best clearance.

[mnmasotto]

Bill,
Right on the mark again! The brakes pads are too thick. I had to use so older partially worn pads to fit. However, the noise appears to be coming from the metal internal of the parking brake mechanism. I have tried to file down the metal rear backing plate with little sucess. The brake dust backing plate is gone. Does anyone sell new pads which have been machined thinner inorder to fit easier?