Partial drop/engine tin question

[88911coupe]

I've read about 2 dozen threads and still have some questions on my dilema. Trying to address some leaks on my recently done rebuild which appear to be on the driver side chain box and one at the tensioner line on the same side. I need to remove the rear engine tin and have the muffler out and all bolts for the rear tin out as well, but it won't quite come out...it hits the engine bay structure. I need to drop the back (technically front I guess) of the engine (fan/alternator end) so the tin will slide out past the rear frame of the engine bay. Can I just disconnect the tranny and lower it a bit at the rear by supporting the engine and unscrewing the large bolts? It looks like the only thing I'd need to disconnect is the main wiring harness since it only has to drop a tiny amount for the tin to clear the frame.
TIA

[Scott R]

Originally Posted by 88911coupe

I've read about 2 dozen threads and still have some questions on my dilema. Trying to address some leaks on my recently done rebuild which appear to be on the driver side chain box and one at the tensioner line on the same side. I need to remove the rear engine tin and have the muffler out and all bolts for the rear tin out as well, but it won't quite come out...it hits the engine bay structure. I need to drop the back (technically front I guess) of the engine (fan/alternator end) so the tin will slide out past the rear frame of the engine bay. Can I just disconnect the tranny and lower it a bit at the rear by supporting the engine and unscrewing the large bolts? It looks like the only thing I'd need to disconnect is the main wiring harness since it only has to drop a tiny amount for the tin to clear the frame.
TIA

Really to be safe you need to disconnect the shift coupler and CV's. I've been this close before and one jacking mistake and you're in trouble.

[Flat6pac]

You need the rear of the chassis on jack stands because you dont need any flex in the work.
Disconnect the engine 14 connector and you should be able to clear a couple inches.
Watch the S oil line as it is the shortest thing in the swing.
The driver side chain box leak is liable to be the rubber O ring behind the cam drive seal to the cam carrier as you cant have that seal not seated.
Bruce

[fredmo1947]

I'm am not an expert at this (or at anything else for that matter), however I recently upgraded my 76 911s with a 78 3.0L to oil fed tensioners. I ran into the same problem with the tin, it seemingly would not come out. I worked on it for about 15-20 minutes with a little gentle bending and twisting I was able to get it out through the bottom of the bay with I believe the right side of the tin first at about a 45 degree angle and rotated with the top of the tin facing the back of the car. It took some slight twisting and maybe a couple of scrapes on the tin, but as part of the job I cleaned it and painted it anyway.
Installation was also a little tricky but I got it in in about 10 minutes.
I don't know if you have AC, but that could complicate things a bit. Good luck!
Fred

[snbush67]

I have had np issues lowering the engine 6 inches of so without disconnecting anything except for the 2 mounting bolts real easy peasy lemon sqeezy.

[88911coupe]

Thanks to all who have responded. Looks like I'll be able to drop it a little, at least enough to just get it past that part of tbe bulkhead. From what I can tell in this situatino, it would require more bending than I'm comfortable with.