What to watch for during windshield replacement / What to do while its out?

[Cattler]

I'm getting the windshield in my 87 cabriolet replaced this weekend (gratis, thanks USAA). I have a windshield with the internal antenna, no tint. I'm re-reading a lot of threads on windshield replacement, but have two questions for the group:

• What should I watch for / be careful of during the replacement procedure?
• Is there anything I should do / look for while the windshield is out?

Safelite will be replacing the glass. I have to call back tomorrow to confirm that they'll bring a windshield with the internal antenna, the proper rubber seal, and the anodized windshield moulding. I probably won't have much time to do any big tasks while the glass is out, but intend to check for rust and clean the leading edge of the dash. Anything else?

Thanks,
David

[snbush67]

If you don't all-ready have your windshield out you are behind the power curve, it only takes about thirty seconds to remove it, then you have until the window elves get there to dry out any wet spots and patch up any rust, it is almost a given that you will find a spot or two of rust where moisture has seeped down along the inside edge of the seal and found a place to rest and has eaten through a portion of the metal that surrounds your windshield and/or cowl, take a good look now, if you are lucky the rust be in a non visible portion and you can get by with cutting away the bad metal, preparing the surface with POR 15, Spot filling and resurfacing with JB Weld metal and painting again with POR 15 before the professional window elves arrive. You will do a better job cleaning the frame then they will as well and they will be glad you did. Also read up on the installation just in case they haven't done it before, make sure they install the rubber onto the windshield, then the metal into the rubber then put the whole windshield into the car, I did it by myself, I would have loved to have 4 more hands.

[JohnJL]

You can take it out now and just have them install. That should give you time to clean up and POR any rust.

Also a prime opportunity to recover your dash. I had a local upholsterer come over and stretch new leather over the dash, it looks awesome and you can choose your exact material.

[81turboporsche]

i just did this on my 81, personally take youre time grind down any spots to bare metal and i bondoed and filled it took awhile but no one will be the wiser and i dont have an unsightly rust bubble staring at me anymore

[jrumiano]

I had a bad experiences with Safelite several years ago when I had them try replace the windshield on my 240Z. I even took the windshield out and had a factory rubber seal for them to use for the install. The outcome was a torn gasket with no trim installed. The installer tried to tell me it was the wrong gasket. I'll spare you the ugly details, but I will never use Safelite again.

I ended up taking it to a local independent shop, and was 100% satisfied.

Hopefully you'll have better luck with Safelite.

Good luck,
John

[dtw]

You should really DIY. If nothing else though, insist on a factory Porsche seal.

[carrera turbo]

when you go to reinstall use lots of lube. i use dawn dish soap. i start by soaking a piece of nylon cord dawn in a zip lock bag so it will stay lubed while pulling threw the rubber weather strip. i always start at the bottom and have an extra hand on the out side putting slight pressure just in front of the cord. this has worked for me many times over the years.
i to have had a not so pleasant experience with a glass installer years back hence the reason i install all my own to this day.

i will say that if your windshield has a chip in it it will be more likely to break while installing.

its also a good idea to go around the windshield with some good green or blue 5 to 15 day masking tape before you remove then after removal add a little extra beyond the outer rubber edge line this way you wont scratch or chip the paint outside the weatherstrip .

this is also a good time to take care of any dash problems and to re glue the leading edge of the headliner if needed, if you don't and its loose it will try and peal away with the cord.

"OH YEA THIS IS MOST LIKLEY THE ONLY TIME YOU WIL BE ABLE TO STAND UP IN YOUR CAR" try it , its kinda cool.
good luck

cheers ed

[lateapex911]

Also, the deep mysterious secret to getting the rubber correctly matched and tight in the corners is the metal trim. It often has it's corner radius' open up on removal, then when reinstalled it leaves gaps to the body at the middle of the corners. The cure is to tighten the radius of the trim, which will match the car body opening. Some use a curved wood block for this, and gentle persuasion. I massaged my metal trim before inserting it into the rubber. Solved a long standing problem for me.

This helps cut the possibility of a leak down as well. A search will yield a thread about this.

[tj90]

I had my glass pulled due to pitting and some rust showing up in the bottom corner of my 95 993. Of course the rust was much more extensive under the glass than what was visibly creeping on the outside.

I grinded all the rust away and used POR to paint all the surfaces to cover any scratches and bare metal areas along the channel and pinch weld.

The installer wants to reuse the same inner seal that looks to be in good shape, but he is going to get a new outer seal and plastic piece that was brittle and cracked close to the glass.

Questions for you guys:
1) How long does it take for the POR to cure (assume So cal climate - not too humid or hot this time of year).
2) Would you sand the POR so that there is more mechanical bonding during install? Im not using a topcoat on top of the POR, so I need a good bond with just the POR15.
3) The installer gave me to one-time applicator of primer to apply on top of the POR. I guess he normally would use this to cover any scratches or something to the OEM finish. I think with the POR this is probably not necessary.
4) This glass shop that comes highly recommended by p-car indy shop uses Sika products. Is there a specific class of product (sealers or urethanes) that should be used for the windshield? I want the moisture to be blocked as much as possible and no creaks from the windshield.
5) Hes reusing the inner seal and getting new outer seal. Ive read on this board to use OEM seal. The shop tells me that the glass is not coming from the dealer but its factory glass since thats the only stuff available for the 993s. Can I assume that the seal is OEM? Who would make a seal for this limited production car?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want this done right.