Difference between types of alternator belts?

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

The Pelican catalog shows two different alternator belts for my '83 SC--a $5.75 aftermarket belt that is labeled "service-free" and is of the notched variety; and a $10 OEM belt that is labeled "may need re-tensioning" and is of the non-notched type.

Which is preferable? Not a big deal, I'm only buying it as a toolkit spare, but I seem to remember a recent thread in which people were saying they avoided the notched type of belt...or maybe it was the other way around.

Opinions?

[Fast Corners]

I don't know about "service free" but I have witnessed in the past that the notched belts develop less cracking on the inner belt surface. My theroy on this is that the notched belt does not heat up as much as a non-notched belt.

[Oh Haha]

Notched or "cogged" belts typically run cooler.

[Jim Sims]

Serrated belt versus smooth belt?

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

Thank you! Guess I didn't use the correct search terms.

[1982911SCTarga]

The service-free belt will get you home and doesn't take a lot of thought (put all the shims to the outside). However, it tends to run loose over time and you're left with no adjustment. The belts I've gotten from my FLAPS have been of the service-free variety (it's what their computer system calls up in term of replacement belts).

Brian

[KTL]

Note that the flexible Continental cogged belt is typically 10x710 and the solid belt is 9.5x710. So the number of shims on the outside & inside will be different when switching from one belt type to the other. That extra 0.5mm of width and flexibility makes a big difference in ease of installation too

The solid belt can be a bear to install. I know from experience that the 9.5x710 Goodyear solid belt can present a real struggle to get the pulley installed far enough on to the hub (and fairly straight) and get your outer shims + cupped washer on the shaft, ready to install the 24mm nut. I finally tried a 10x710 cogged belt this year and it's a breeze to install compared to the solid one. I'm a believer in the cogged belt now. Let's hope it lasts awhile or it'll require more frequent replacement due to what Brian described. Without question, the cogged belt is the one to keep in the tool kit for emergencies.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

The "technique," if it can be called that, that I use when replacing an alternator belt is to put the belt, inner shims, the outer pulley half and the cupped washer on the shaft--no shims outside of the pulley half--and then torque the bolt some, while doing your best to make the belt conform to the pulley. Then, after you've tightened the outer pulley half until it's well onto the shaft, gently remove the nut, and usually the pulley half stays in place, tightened even though the nut is off, giving you enough threading to put on the shims and the cupped pulley and then torque everything home.

[psalt]

Hello Steve,

My experience is the cog belt can develop a disturbing sound like failing alternator bearings. I always recommend swapping to a normal belt before the execution. Otherwise there is not much difference.