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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 104
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Splitting open the airbox
I have my CIS injection system off of my 83SC and noticed that the seam between the upper and lower sections of the airbox has a sealing material that is cracked. It looks like a great opportunity for a vacuum leak and I might as well fix it while the engine is dropped. I tried separating the two parts to reseal them. However, they don't want to come apart easily and Im afraid of cracking the plastic. Does anyone have experience with this, either a proven way to split these apart or seal them without splitting them?
Andy
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Some have reported success w/ 3M 5200 Marine Sealant for holding the 2 sections together.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 104
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Thanks Paul.
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Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 391
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I had a similar situation with my box and no, the pieces did not want to separate! I took a Dremel tool with a small round bit and routed the seam/joint all the way around, maybe 2 or 3 mm deep. I then filled the routed channel with JB Weld (slow set), making sure it completely covered the seam. Not pretty (gray JB on a black box), but it doesn't really show. I pressure tested the box before re-install and it's worked well ever since.
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John 1982 911SC Targa ~ Gulf Blue (gone but not forgotten) |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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The 3M 5200 comes in various colors, incl black.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 104
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The dremel isn't a bad idea John. Much safer than breaking it. I was finally able to split it and only had a small chip break off. There is a tounge and grove along the seam, like I suspected, and if they use much glue at the factory it will undoubtedly give you grief. I had to keep going around the seam with a sharp putty knife and pry at it. I like the idea of pressure, or vacuum testing it to make sure.
I will look into the 3M product Paul. I also thought about a black silicon gasket sealer if they have it. I may need to get it apart again one day.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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3M DP8005 for one. the glue must have HDPE or PP on the bottle. these are glues that actually melt into the plastic and truely bond the two halves, unlike JB weld or others that merely sit on the surface.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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I've noticed that some posters have used polyethylene (hdpe) which is pop bottle plastic, for making patches. PP is polypropylene, which is the "living hinge" plastic. Plastics suppliers will have both.
Aside from what JW said, I've seen another 3M 2 part adhesive, DP8010, which is for hdpe and pp.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone Last edited by Paulporsche; 07-27-2009 at 07:33 AM.. |
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