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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga (Atlanta)
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Scored some great alignment tools on Craiglist!!

I am replacing all my shocks, Tbars, bushings, swing arms, a-arms,ball joints etc, on my '80SC.
Have been concerned about alignment when I got through.
Well this weekend I found a complete set of tools from an 80yr old retired mechanic, who put some on Craigslist. Great old fellow, and he gave me some real good tips. He built several of the tools himself, including toe gauge, tire marking tool and the adjustable camber bar. Couldn't believe my luck in finding these tools for $50 including turntables.
The magnetic camber gauge is '50s vintage SnapOn as are the turntables. It not only does camber, but also caster (using turntables) They may be old, but that's AOK, as I'm sure camber and caster works today the same as it did in the '50s. LOL
The homemade adjustable toe in gauge is quite neat. He told me to spin the tires and put a broad chalk mark on on the tread. Then you use the little spring loaded knife edge device to scribe a fine line in the chalk while rotating the tire. You then line up the arrows on the bar to the scribed tire lines on the front of the tires. Then move the bar to the rear of the tires, center, and compare the distance between the arrows. Simple, yet elegant!
This will be my first attempt at an alignment, so wish me luck! Any tips on procedure will be appreciated.
Any of you Atlanta Pelicans who would like to attempt an at home alignment, let me know via PM.
Grant








Old 08-10-2009, 11:37 AM
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Nice!

Congrats, where do you live, can I borrow it
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Old 08-10-2009, 11:41 AM
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very cool! too bad for the old dude he did not know ebay, but good on you none the less! he was prolly thrilled you were going to put them to DIY duty.

t
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Old 08-10-2009, 11:58 AM
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I have these same tools except without the camber "caliper" you have. The only thing you need to be careful of is getting the camber gauge on consistently. I use mine right on the wheel. Since it sits on top of the wheel, I found that a Fuchs worked very well with the center cap removed - the lip mated nicely (insert your own joke here). With the "later" wheels I left the center cap in - just make sure you push it on firmly and that the center caps are well seated. In your case with the "caliper" just make sure the rim is not bent and that you use the same location for the pins each time.
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Last edited by CBRacerX; 08-10-2009 at 12:34 PM..
Old 08-10-2009, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBRacerX View Post
I- just make sure you push it on firmly and that the center caps are well seated. In your case with the "caliper" just make sure the rim is not bent and that you use the same location for the pins each time.
I think he took care of that via the "bungy cord" attachement method
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:39 PM
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Good score, Ray Scruggs sells a booklet for $10.00 its called Home alignment for your P-car , great booklet and a real money saver, did my 930 and saved a bundle takes a while for the first time after the third time you'll have a system and it takes a few hours. I raced open wheel cars so I have the tools that you now have and once your into it - it's pretty easy, my advantage is I have the corner scales, good luck, enjoy!
Old 08-10-2009, 12:39 PM
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Just remember, a perfectly level surface is the most important tool to start with.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:41 PM
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I learned how to do alignments with those back in the early 80's!! Nice score!
Old 08-10-2009, 02:56 PM
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Excellent!
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:36 PM
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On toe, you can normally just scribe a line without having to use chalk to measure the toe.
On caster, your car needs to be settled on the turntables and pointing straight - 0 degrees on the turntables and the gauge needs to be set straight up at 90 degrees- the bubble will be centered on it.
On the left side, turn it to the right 20 degrees, set or mark the center bubble then turn the wheel to the left to the 20 degree makr on the turntable. The difference is your caster. Usually around 5 degrees on a 911.
Repeat process in reverse on right side.
Camber is measured with the wheel straight at 0 degrees on the turntables.
If I remember correctly, set your caster before camber and then recheck caster.
Set your toe last.
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:15 PM
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I too used the same equipment (about 100yrs ago) but had a 8 or 9" wood blocks under each wheel made of plywood so that you could get under to set the toe.

Lorne M.
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:53 PM
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Thanks for all the tips so far! Great folks on this forum!
Grant

Old 08-11-2009, 04:24 AM
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