Umm....can anyone tell me how ya replace the Shift Coupler Bushings??

NONO5.0 · 08-20-2009, 08:56 AM

Update to this thread: Conical screw keeps coming loose on shift rod coupler

Anywho, I ordered two new bushings from Pelican Parts (shown below)

but lookin at it....how in the WORLD do ya replace these things!?????

So, here's my issue:

I've already removed the coupler and it still has the other side in, but its tight...however, I'd LIKE to replace both of them unless its a major PITA

Definitely gotta get that one side back in though

Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated!!!

Winter · 08-20-2009, 09:03 AM

well, you've removed the coupler. Now you need to go find a BIG vice. You use the vice and the appropriate sized socket (or other metal pin) to push out the center pin. Then you insert the bushings and use the vice to press the "center pin" of the coupler back in.

Do not use a hammer. The vice has to be BIG. Do a search, you will find a lot of questions and answers on this. It's a bit of a PITA, but well worth it and the vice press method is the only way to go.

Good luck.

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Tom '75 targa

NONO5.0 · 09:28 AM

Ahhh! I see what your sayin now, ya remove the center pin of the yoke that actually goes into the bushings! Now, granted, I'm an idiot, but are you sayin put the assembly in a vice and then try to tap out the pin,(from top to bottom) or are you sayin put the assembly in a vice ALONG WITH the right size socket to push out the center pin little by little? (side to side)

(I'm sure that's a really supid question, but I just wana make sure I do it right)

Once I get it figured out, I'll post pics for the next guy who might need them

EDIT: Nevermind...common sense finally kicked in

So, I'll use a 8mm socket (small enough to go thru the assembly) on one side of the center pin and a 14mm socket on the other end of the pin (bigger than the pin itself) so when I push the vise together, it'll push the center pin into the 14 mm socket correct?

Deschodt · 10:21 AM

Something like that, yes... If you think removing them is bad, try putting the new tight ones back on again ;-)

Soap, a press, patience, all good things ! Makes me think buying a replacement unit with the bushings already "in" (wevo, stomski) is not such a bad idea ;-) It's not hard, just annoying...

Winter · 08-20-2009, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NONO5.0

So, I'll use a 8mm socket (small enough to go thru the assembly) on one side of the center pin and a 14mm socket on the other end of the pin (bigger than the pin itself) so when I push the vise together, it'll push the center pin into the 14 mm socket correct?

Yup, you're on the right track now. I doused the center pin with some liquid wrench to help it loosen up on mine. These can be fairly tight and unmoving. Take your time, because you don't want to damage the coupler housing. The center pin will come out. . . Reinstallation of it is the reverse of removal, using the vice again. And taking your time. Some have suggested that you stick the center pin in the freezer to shrink it a bit. I used a bunch of dish soap for both the bushings and the pin, seemed to work OK, but still a PITA.

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Tom '75 targa

teenerted1 · 08-20-2009, 02:48 PM

you did mark the coupler and the shafts before you removed them right? that will make reinstalling them easier and you wont explode trying to get the shifter aligned right again

Woodyhfd · 08-20-2009, 02:57 PM

Just a thought here, but you may want to put the new bushings in the freezer for a few hours to shrink them a bit before you press them in.

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

get one of these and your troubles will be over, improves shifting also!

NONO5.0 · 08-20-2009, 05:12 PM

I started a new thread on this, but I wanted to post in here too incase someone searches and finds this thread. I got the new bushings in just fine using a vise and some sockets. The install wasn't bad either, BUT now that its all together, it is VERY snug. Should it be really snug? I can move it up and down with my hand but not really easily. Before, it would just wobble in place (even before I lost the bushing) I'm guessin that its normal b/c of the new tight bushings, but just wana be sure.

Thanks again everyone!

Rusty Heap · Rusty Heap's Garage

If anyone else wants to try this for their own car, I have a shifting yoke with "good" used bushings, along with brand new still in wrapper new bushings FOR SALE out of my 1982 911SC.

yoke doesn't really need rebuilding, but one of those projects "I was going to get around to" before the car got totaled.

Or, I can rebuild the yoke, as yeah, I have a big vise. But I figured people wanted the new in wrapper bushings to do it themselfs with a doner yoke.

PM me if interested. Everything is cheap.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

New bushings give a nice tight fit, and take away the slop.

NONO5.0 · 08-20-2009, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by efhughes3

New bushings give a nice tight fit, and take away the slop.

Gotcha! Well, it DEFINITELY did that! I can't imagine how the shifter will move it with them this tight. It will be nice not to have any slop in the shifter though!

Now for the fun part of aligning the shifter

Thanks again everyone for all the help! I'm REALLY glad I went with this tranny in the swap! Lots of very knowledgable people here makes it really easy to work on these issues!

Take care!

fintstone · fintstone's Garage

What are the symptoms of bad shift coupler bushings?

carrera turbo · 11:43 PM

flintstone
the symptoms vary from car to car but one would be the stick in a bucket of rocks feel."forgot where i heard that"

the others are hard to find third or grinds from time to time and just a sloppy feel. if you remove the cover on the rear tunnel between the rear floor boards and move your shifter around you Will see how the coupler works and if its sloppy.

some people like the slotted bushings i do not i like a tight well adjusted shifter.

cheers ed

Deschodt · 04:00 AM

Most of the time, unless it's 40 years old and totally sloppy in all directions, the hole in the center of the bushings elongates to an oval shape, so the pin can slide fowd and back a couple mimilmeters, and primarily the front-to-back movement of the shifter becomes longer than it needs to be (and sloppy). Over the lenght of the tube + shifter motion, a little gap in the coupler translates into maybe 1/4 inch of slop at the shifter... Say your shifter is solidly in 3rd gear, if you can still make it move around a bit like a spoon in a jar of mayo before you hit the stops: worn out...

That lack of precision can therefore also make it harder to "find" a gear... That said, ironically, Porsche themselves recommend ovalizing the bushing on some cars such as the 912 so that the small tranny movements would not reflect on the shifter, there was a little gap on purpose. It's still slop ;-) Most new bushings are round !

below is an example of a worn out center a bushing, though this one is "on purpose" and not worn out (912), same principle..

easiest thing in the world, pop out the access plate on the end of the tunnel, and look at this bushing while moving the shifter with your freakishly long arms ;-)

NONO5.0 · 08-21-2009, 05:14 AM

Welp, I just re-installed the shift coupler with the new bushings and WOW!!

What a HUGE difference! My shift coupler has always had the slop ever since I installed it in the DeLorean and I didn't even realize this was an issue until I had to replace the bushings; so I didn't know what to expect with the new bushings. When I put it in gear, I can ACTUALLY feel it going into gear and, before I thought I might have a small issue with the tranny b/c in the past, if I tried goin from 5th back down to 4th, it would grind. Now, I can go from 5th to 4th PERFECTLY!!!

Thanks everyone! I LOVE this transmission!!!! 6 years and STILL goin strong

(knock on wood

)