Att: C1 G50 Nose Cone seal ring

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Sorry canīt find the thread anymore.

Someone was asking to replace the front cone shifter rod seal ring while the unit is in the car.

It is possible.

First get the parts: The sealring, Loctite 495 and some oil for emergencys.

Best way to work:

bleed all trany oil the best over night with the car slightly liftet in front. Two 1" wood boards under the front wheels will do it.

Open inspection hole. Loose the rubber coupler and the rubber boot. get under the car remove coupler and rubber boot.

Support trany and remove the aluminium crossmeber.

Use a big open end spanner and place it behind the overstanding washer from the seal. Use a mallet to drive out the part.
If it will not come on the first hit the use an hot air gun and heat the piece up to hot but not to hot. 100°C . retry it.

If it will still not come then use a plyer and twist the overstanding sheetmetall like you would open a fish can. You have to get the diameter a bit smaller. You have two trys maby a third then the thing has lost the outher ring and you better drop the unit.

One chance is to get a screwdriver an drive it inside the gap and hammer the ring smaller bit by bit. ( this is only if you are in alaska and the martians are coming ).

If you feel it wout come then relax and go to the next truck or machine shop to borrow a puller.
You need a double half moon unit ( Miss the english word ) They are made for pulling flush mount roller bearings from the axle. Most Porsche mechanic need them to pull the inner bearing ring from the rear axle studs.

They work like a vice and have a wedge that will fit behind the ring and when you turn the halfmoons together they will force out the ring.

If you have the tools it is allways an easyer and safer job.

Now after you have the sealring out you flush the area with some degrease ( brake cleaner ) and insert the new ring. Apply the Loctite 495 on the new sealring outher surface. Donīt do sometinh inside the cone. it can be pressed into the axial/radial rollerbearing bushing behind the seal.

Then just press it in with the hand as far you can go. important is to have some oil on the seal lip and the rod and to press it axial. Then use a big nut that will sit on the outher ring and you can slightly hammer it in or use a woodpiece and put the one end in the corner abouve the trany nose where the seatbuckets go over in the bow and then use that coner as a lever to prey in the nut with the sealring.

You also can use a medium extension and hammer press from the inspection hole.

Normaly they go in with slight pressure but if you used the prey out with the screwdrivermethode you will have troble.

Now siting flush the loctite is pressed ot and filled the gap behind the ring.

Reassemble refill and good luck.

Grüüse

BTW hope we are not in a Kindergarden and you stay allways on the cool and saefty side.

[88911coupe]

I'm working on this since it "appears" this shifter rod seal is leaking on my G50. I just noticed Roland mentioned draining the fluid first. I guess IF I can get the old seal out the tranny fluid level is high enough to flow out. I also think, maybe, the case seal right up front might be leaking as well as the connector where the throttle linkage mounts to the transmission. Seems odd that the throttle connection would need to go INSIDE the transmission.