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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
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CIS Idle issues
I have a 77 911 w/ 81sc transplant. Upon startup, I will either cosistantly idle at 2,000 rpm, without being able to adjust with the screw - OR- will idle fine at 950. Motor temp does not seem to be a factor.
Does this sound like a wiring issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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Registered
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fast idle with the screw all the way in is a classic sign that you have an air leak.
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Rex 1975 911s and 2012 Range Rover Sport HSE 1995 BMW R1100RS, 1948 Harley FL |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Quite often the air leak is @ the decel valve.
It could also be your AAR or any of the vac lines. Other possibilities incl the diz and a stuck sensor plate.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
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Agree with Rex--classic air leak. However the fact that it does idle at 950 points to an intermittent air leak, probably from one of the cold start devices or possibly the decel valve.
A bit more investigating on your part with reports back will help in tracking down the problem. Tell us everything you can about when the problem started, how long the problem has been going on and if any work has been done on the engine.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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1974 911 w/ 83 SC engine
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 602
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Quote:
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Thanks for the help. I'll do a little more specific observations and see where this goes.
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Hotwatermusic,
That is the correct operation of a CIS engine. The AAR keeps the revs up to about 2000 upon cold startup. As the engine warms up, the AAR gradually allows the revs to go down to 950. Or, are you saying that the revs NEVER go back to 950 unless you shut it down? If that is the case, then it sounds like the same problem as tres 911's and you should check for vac leaks, especially the decel valve and AAR, and then check the mixture.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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1974 911 w/ 83 SC engine
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 602
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Quote:
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Registered
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not knowing the specific names, I found a disconnected rubber vacuum hose to the dist and reinstalled. Also found another loose. This seems to have brought the idle to normal.
Thanks for the imput all! |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
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Great news! You might post a picture of the hoses you found and reconnected, if possible. It will help others who may find themselves with a similar problem.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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1974 911 w/ 83 SC engine
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 602
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Quote:
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Registered
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Doubt the sun would get it hot enough to affect the sensors. especially if your talking the difference between 95 and 75. maybe replace your coke zero... lol gotta love this tx weather...
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
Posts: 12,499
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Sounds like the AAR is sticky and with the cold it takes longer (hotter engine temp) to "unstink" it. Do not mess with the idle mixture just yet.
I would remove the AAR and clean it with some carb cleaner, let dry and reinstall. Even if it isn't your problem it wouldn't hurt to clean it. You can also try to plug the air path at the AAR when the idle is high and see if the idle drops. You can pull the hose off the AAR and then plug the AAR and hose to close off the circuit. Us a large enough rubber plug on each so it won't go anywhere and then start the engine. Do this after a couple of minutes at the higher idle. Shut engine off and pull hose then plug then start again. An internal air leak ( wihin the air circuit) can cause behavior like this. Search "annual CIS mystery" |
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1974 911 w/ 83 SC engine
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 602
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Quote:
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Registered
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Quote:
CIS Primer for the Porsche 911
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Hot water,
Here is what I'm doing to fix the AAR. 1st: it is located just in front of the middle passenger side injector. 2nd: remove both inlet and outlet hoses. 3rd: spray in some carb cleaner, let dry and repeat ( just like shampoo! ). I'm using a shop vac to speed the air and pull out debris. I can't get the thing completely removed, too tight of spot, but believe this will do the trick. Tres211 75. 911 88 Carrera |
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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tres211,
With engine cold, just remove the outside vac hose, not the inside one: Check the AAR located on the right side of the engine between 5-6 intake runner. It's the item that has a small electric plug and a large vacuum hose connected to it. Open the clamp holding the outside-hose. Pry it off with the screwdriver just enough to get it out of the way so you can see into the opening. Don’t worry about the Alu pipe; it’ll move enough. With the help of a small mirror and a light, peek inside the AAR. When COLD, you should see an opening in the slide shaped like a half-moon. When HOT, the opening is completely closed. If it isn't closed, the AAR is either kaput or doesn't get any power. You can spray some WD-40 into the valve in case it is just sticky. To check the power, carefully open the tiny clip on the plug with a very small screwdriver and pull it off. The wire clip is tricky but necessary; don't yank it off. Start the engine and check the plug for 12 V. Just ignition ON will not get power to AAR or WUR; engine has to run. (One wire is power, the other (brown) is ground) With power to the AAR, it should close after about 5 minutes engine running.
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Registered
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Thanks all!
The true solve was a power issue. Without the 12v supply, the AAR acts different to all conditions. Got the power solved, car idles perfect in all conditions!
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Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
Posts: 12,499
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The AAR heats up through heating (your 12 vdc discovery) and/or engine heat. As you found out, it eventually closes afte enough running and the engine transfer enough heat to it.
Glad your problem is fixed. Quote:
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