Rotate engine for valve adjust w/no access to lower nut? Ideas?

[Nick Triesch]

I believe there is an article on this site that says remove plugs before doing valve adjustment. What to do!

[The cap'n]

OK. I guess the instructor at the Porsche school was wrong. What did he know, being factory trained and all? Pardon me (and all the other experienced techs).

The Cap'n

[theiceman]

Originally Posted by Gunter

Yeah, never take the plugs out even if you need new ones after 50k Miles.

Every now and then, a thread appears like: Help, cannot get plug out.

Reason? Carbon build-up on the plug end. It'll move for a couple turns and then seize. It'll take some force to get it out. The danger here is that damaging the threads is quite possible because the plug is steel and the heads are ALU alloy.

If the plugs are left in for too long undisturbed, it might cause problems.

What to do?

IMHO, Nothing wrong with taking them out now and then to check condition, gap and carbon build-up.

no one is saying dont take the plugs out , merely dont take them out while doing a valve adjustment. After my valve adjustment is done and while i have all the leads off .. THEN i pop the plugs out for an inspection.

[The cap'n]

Because the seal on each plug is a crush washer, it's supposed to be a one-time use item. I haven't seen replacement washers in years, although they're probably still available somewhere. You used to be able to get them in various thicknesses, for those who indexed their plugs. Dunno if you can still get those, either.

The Cap'n

[SkunkWorks]

Off topic but for plugs, I heard that what colour they are doesn't truly depict how rich/lean the car is running?

I can't fathom how combustion and the associated colouration that comes with it would be any different to a "normal" engine...

[The cap'n]

Lead is a big factor in plug color. The absence of lead in modern fuels has made plug reading pretty much a thing of the past.

The Cap'n

[SkunkWorks]

Good thing I've a AFR wideband kit in the mail then!

Thanks cap'n!

[fred cook]

If you really want to use the crankshaft nut to turn the engine while doing a valve adjustment, just drop the muffler. With it out of the way there will be plenty of room!

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by 911Freak

Hey Pelicans

I'm doing a valve adjustment on my 1980 3.0 (930/08)

Problem is I can't get access to the nut on the main pulley to rotate the engine because this 3.0l came with A/C and thus there is little to no clearance between the engine mount bracket and the double crank-case pulley to get the 26mm socket attached?!

Bentley, 101 projects and Haynes simply state to use a 26mm socket to access this nut and rotate engine, however they offer no recommendation for an alternative

I have been trying to use the upper pulley (alternator/fan) but with the resistance from compression the belt slips

I'm sure a pelican out there knows a solution

Thanks in advance

Here are the ways to rotate the crank (engine OFF):

1. Rotate crank pulley with wrench or equivalent
2. Remote starter switch (or disable ignition circuit and use the ign. switch to crank)
3. Roll vehicle forward while in gear (parking brake OFF)

Your choice to remove spark plugs or other engine pieces with the usual caveats about debris around the plugs.

Sherwood