I seem to have the same car as you, blue 86 Euro cab, and I am about to install my new carpet kit. How did you apply the Quietcar inside, paint brush or spray?

I brushed it on after doing a thorough cleaning.

It has helped me NO PROB WITH CARPT EITHER.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264223131.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264223203.jpg

How did the Rattle Trap work for you? I noticed it is a lot thinner than the original matting/pads we have. did you put any thing on top of it for sound muffling or just the Rattle trap and carpet?

I am down to the back padding and the heavy rubber pan covering and am pondering my next step.... to strip it out or not?

This is a great thread on the topic - almost into selection overload with all the options.

This is a great thread on the topic - almost into selection overload with all the options.[/QUOTE]

No kidding!!!
I started the thread. Lots of info, but I started confused and with all the options I got more confused.
I decided to go with Second Skin.....Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner on top. ( thanks Nineball) My only concern is the weight. But I'm not tracking the car and I doubt I will feel the difference in added weight.
I want to DO IT NOW, but it's freakin 22 degrees with 6" of snow outside and only a small space heater in the garage.

good choice! i'll be doing the same setup in the spring as well. we don't have the snow here (for now) but it's still hovering around the freezing temps.

The rattle trap went on well. I used 100 sf single layer on all areas roof, sunroof included. Double in doors and on the back under the rear cover. Adhesion was great. The thickness was 80mill. Took paint well (painted roof so that it did not "shine" under liner). By cutting into little strips i was able to slip into small hollows in roof and under dash. It also cut down on air infiltration. More pics if you are interested.

Pics are always good!

I am using the quietcar as we speak...

I just applied to the driver side door last night and will be hitting the passenger side this week and the floor the week after.

I cleaned the door with a cleaning solve prior to applying the quitecar.

Now I am searching for some a carpet installation guide for the carpet I purchased.

Rattle trap
 

More pics, I PUT TWO LAYERS IN THE DOOR THE NEXT TIME I TAKE OFF THE PANELS I WILL ADD A LAYER WHERE THE PLASTIC FILM GOES JUST TO SEE IF IT MAKES A DIFFRENCE.(http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264433514.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264433552.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264433606.jpg

i don't think adding that extra layer will help much with vibration reduction and certainly not with noise blocking as the only thing that really makes that panel vibrate is the speaker. it will however improve the sound of your speakers by "sealing" the door and providing an enclosure if you will for the speaker depending on how much you do. you should notice an improvement in midbass response.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...o/100_4586.jpg

I think adding that extra layer will help with vibration reduction and also with noise blocking as anything that makes that panel vibrate will be affected. That includes passing large trucks, the speakers, etc.

Is it worth it? That is the question.

i did a layer on the bottom of the inner skin first on both doors because there was just too much stuff in the way on top. this did give me almost 50% coverage on the outer skin so i was satisfied with the results. i also added a layer of overkill to help with reflecting soundwaves inside the door:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...o/100_4578.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...o/100_4585.jpg
i then did the full layer on the inner skin on the driver's side and went for a ride. i could barely tell a minimal, if any, difference in sound reduction with my naked but trained ear. i did however have a noticable difference in the sound reproduction of my 6.5" midbass driver over the passenger side.

looking at both pics (mine and WRGREENER) i notice that his did not have the support bars in the door blocking the top half. was this some safety feature that was added to later cars? mine is an 83.

Yepper, in 72 they did not have the support bars. This made the install easy. I also took out the glass, frame, and other hardware. Cut the pieces into 4x12 strips and did a x overlay. I gave the original "foam" material a good look and decided that the new material was enough??? I did not take the backing off the floor portion just set it in a large section (just so i can monitor the moister) used a glue pot to shoot the carpet adhesive and both motor noise and road noise has been cut down tremendously.

What does all this stuff weigh? And how much of an influence does it have on performance. I only have 90 hp in my little SWB 912 and hate to weight it down too much. Thanks

i used damplifier pro. it weighs 0.6lb/sq ft. i used roughly 13sq ft total to do the entire car sans the roof (targa) so it added 7.8lbs. i easily removed more than 20lbs of asphalt the factory put on the floor.

Has anyone tried this sound barrier?
 

I talked to a guy from LA who installs stereos for a living and recommended a product called VB4 Barrier from Casade Auto Engineeering. The concept is that there must be a small air gap in order to deflect the sound. It a two ply and comes in sheets of 54in x 37in x 1/4" at $106 a sheet.
Quote:

How does VB-4 work?
The neoprene foam layer creates an "air spring" that floats or decouples the dense layer of vinyl. It is this air spring that allows for the reflection of high energy soundwaves and prevents the sound energy from passing through the dense layer. The foam layer does not absorb sound nor does it "filter" because it is far too thin to absorb high energy, low frequency sound waves. Be wary of any company that promotes a barrier material in this way."

Has anybody tried this stuff?

Flexible - loaded vinyl mass barrier for cars

that is just mlv and a ccf bonded together. most companies sell it like this but i prefer to have them separate fo ease of seams and installation. i did not like their wacky info though, which contradicts itself.

Why should I use a floating barrier and not multiple layers of a vibration damper?
A common misconception is that vibration damping sheets are designed to block road noise, an airborne sound problem. Although this technique can yield a reduction in the overall noise floor, it requires 4-6 layers of material which will increase the cost, installation time and dramatically increases the amount of weight added to the vehicle. Save yourself a lot of time, money and hassle by using a dedicated "floating" barrier material first.
VB-4 weighs 1lb ft² and is equivalent to 6 layers of a vibration damping sheet.


so first they say that "vibration control sheets" (cld) are not designed to block noise but then go on to say if you used 6 layers or more they would. then they compare the mlv/ccf to cld, which they already said is not the same thing. i don't look at compression ratings for engines when i need new tires.

On the floors of my Carrera I layed down 1/4 closed cell foam that's bonded to MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). It seems like basically the same stuff as VB-4. It made a nice reduction in road/tire noise coming into the cabin. I did not peel up the old, factory sound deadener but simply layed the stuff down on top of it.

I purchased it from Super Sound Proofing.

In addition to some similar stuff added to the rear shelf, new windshield seal and new (stock) engine mounts, I've got a pretty quiet Carrera.

What Cascade Audio Engineering is claiming is nothing new. If you look under the rear shelf and rear seats (under the carpet) of your 911, Porsche basically did the came thing all along. The sound mats are just some fiberous matting bonded to a heavy, rubber like barrier. They are crude and old technology but the matting is lifting the sound barrier off the sheet metal to accomplish the same thing. It works but today's materials may be better (but not much lighter).