![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
|
New shocks on the way. Have questions:
I've got some Koni sport adjustables on the way to me to replace my tired Boges.
1. I'm assuming I will be able to install these myself... Am I crazy, or is it a relatively straight-forward job? 2. Does my car have to be re-aligned or height adjusted after they are installed? 3. What else will these do for my ride in addition to tightening it up some? |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,841
|
Adam,
I just started a similar thread. Hopefully, we'll be able to compare notes on the shock upgrades. I am doing all the other suspension parts at the same time, however. On another note, you'll appreciate that the other current project is the resurrection of a neglected 2002. My roommate and I are attempting to make the ultimate cheapo autocross car out of this $500 BMW. Any suggestions? And, no, of course it isn't a tii! Thanks David |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
My brother has Konis in his 911 and they feel like my Bilstein Sports - firm and nice. I had Boges previously - difference is night and day. Understand that both of us are track nuts. You will most definitely need to have the car aligned after the swap. Good time to set the ride height.
|
||
![]() |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
|
Adam,
I did a posting on the installation of fronts and rears several months ago. From start to finish, all the ins and outs of doing it on an 85 model. If you can find it by doing a search under my name it would help a lot, or email me directly and I will try to find it. Be prepared for a long and difficult time with the rear shocks, esp the right one. If you want to ditch the old air filter and housing it will really help you a lot. Fronts are easy once you do it a few times! ![]() Its not real difficult if you are handy with your hands and have some tools. Need jack stands, reasonable tools and make sure that you get the wrench from Koni that you will need for the front struts. You can do it without this wrench but why? Do it right the first time with the right tools! The difference in ride with my car (w/75k on the clock) was unbelieveable! Totally different car. One thing, the Bilsteins I installed did make the car ride a bit higher, but now with some miles on it feel that its settled down again. JoeA
__________________
2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB Last edited by Joeaksa; 11-26-2001 at 06:46 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Adam,
I put Bilstein sports on all 4 corners earlier in the year. You can do the install yourself...no problem. The rears are fairly easy. Just a top nut and bottom bolt. The right side is the hardest because you have to remove the air filter box to get at the upper mount. I also had some trouble getting the lower bolts loose but I may just be a wimp. Plus the lower bolt is a 22mm (I think) so of course I didn't have a socket that big. I had more trouble with the fronts only because my car had been lowered. If your car is lowered, the front strut may not clear the fender well and will not rotate out. If that's the case, you have to turn down your torsion bars to get the strut to clear. Here's the steps for the front...post jacking, jack stands, tires, etc... 1. Remove the top shock nut (from inside the trunk) 2. From inside the wheel well, compress the shock and rotate the shock/strut assy out of the wheel well. (you may want to put some padding on the fender lip) 3. Remove the dust sleeve and rubber bumper. 4. Rotate the shock/strut back into place. 5. Loosen the strut cartridge cap. (I used a chain wrench but a pipe wrench may work as well) (Use the steering wheel lock to keep the strut from rotating) 6. Compress the shock and rotate the shock/strut out of the wheel well. 7. Remove old shock. (mine were aftermarket already but if yours are original, you'll have to get all the oil out of the strut) 8. Insert new shock insert and repeat in reverse order. I think with the bilsteins, the rubber bumper is not reinstalled. Check on the Konis to find out if you need to put back the rubber bumper. Anyone know?? As far as height....the bilstein sports raised my car up a bit. Less than a 1/4 inch if I remember. If you don't have to mess with the front torsion bars, I don't know that you'll need an alignment right away. Mine drove fine even after messing with the torsion bars. I had it aligned later after new tires. If you're planning new torsion bars or tie rod ends, I would wait on the alignment. Just my opinion. I agree with the above about the ride...you'll like the improvement. Good luck!
__________________
Don 24 Cayman GTS - GT Silver 23 Cayman GTS - Arctic Grey - Sold 97 993 Coupe - Arctic/Black - Sold 13 991 Coupe - Platinum/Black - Sold, 87 911 Coupe - Venetian Blue |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
thanks for all the replies so far. i'm definitely going to install them myself, but i'll probably have the alignment, etc., done right away after that. i think gran turismo does that stuff pretty well here in atlanta.
dave- what is the title of your thread? i can't seem to find it using the searches. that's cool about your 2002! actually, on a non-tii, you can do many more modifications that are substantial to the engines. on a tii, it gets much more involved because it requires more drastic modifications to the f.i. system pump, etc... there are lots of great parts you can throw on there to make them handle really well, too. try to get your hands on a bmp or bavarian autosport catalog. (last time i checked a couple weeks ago, pelican wasn't offering parts for the '02 series; otherwise i'd recommend them, first. joeA- i can't find your thread, either. i searched the archives using your username, and all i found was your question about the noise you were getting after the install. could you point me in the right direction? by the way, my car is lowered to euro spec, i believe. funny, i assumed the rears would be much easier than the fronts! i'll definitely try to get that wrench from koni if my shocks don't come with them, already. don- thanks for the instructions. how do i get the oil out of the strut? pump it out, or something? |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
|
Adam,
I was lucky and the person before me had to deal with the oil. I don't know the amount but I doubt that it can be a lot of oil in the strut. A bunch of paper towels might work. If not, maybe that turkey baster needs something to do now that T-day is over.
__________________
Don 24 Cayman GTS - GT Silver 23 Cayman GTS - Arctic Grey - Sold 97 993 Coupe - Arctic/Black - Sold 13 991 Coupe - Platinum/Black - Sold, 87 911 Coupe - Venetian Blue |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: South of the Mason-Dixon Line
Posts: 3,722
|
Adam..
Glad to hear you went with Koni's. If you encounter any problems or just want to chuck it all and have someone else install them. Their is a great little shop near downtown Roswell called: Perfect Performance 770/993-5777 Dave Usher Dave and his crew have replaced shocks in my Porsche and does a great job with alignment. He is reasonable and does great work. Regrads, Bob 73.5 T |
||
![]() |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
|
Adam,
Let me look for my old stuff I sent in for you. Will get back to you, am out on the road now. BTW, the rears are easy, ONCE you can get to the top nut! The right rear is a bear, and you have to remove the airbox on a DME car, no way around it! I installed a MSDS air filter after this and made it a lot easier to work in the RR corner. Left rear is not easy but better. The bottom nuts took my air hammer to get loosened, so be ready. Fronts were not that hard. I did align my car as it had never been done. Look at the front shock towers inside the trunk when you take the old shocks out. If the area is still covered with the black phenolic sealant around the top mount in front, then the car probably has never been aligned since it left Germany... mine had not. Chip all the crap away and then clean it. I painted it and got it ready for the shop and they said that it saved a lot of money in shop time when they aligned it. (See Pic) Otherwise the shop has to do this and they charge lots more for their labor than I do! JA
__________________
2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
||
![]() |
|
RETIRED
|
Adam....did you get those shocks from that link I sent ya that were advertised on the board? They were a good deal.
Most times, unless you have to pull the whole strut....an alignment is not necessary. But it is cheap insurance. I would look for a good shop and consider corner balancing as well. Depending on how you drive the car, a good balance and alignment will do wonders....
__________________
1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
mike-
i sure did. thanks again for the tip! one more question: bruce anderson's book mentions needing an adapter for the koni's when replacing the boge's in front... anyone know anything about this? |
||
![]() |
|