Axle Nut Removal Pain

[renders]

Not sure what the stub is. I have a Carrera 1984. I just unscrew the axle from both ends inside and outside. Pretty straightforward. Curious though to what exact model this would apply. Maybe some older ones.
Also if you look in the book 101 Projects there is no mention of having to remove the axle nut!

[Gunter]

Ah so................'84 still has the SC-version.
If you look at the picture on page 115 in the 101 book, you'll notice the stub axle mentioned for 1985-1989.
In your case, the '84 may still have the same axle as the SC's: no stub.
That means an easier replacement of the CV's or boots because the axle can be removed without opening the big nut.

[renders]

Isn't this forum amazing. I have learned so much here. That makes sense. Interesting. Wonder why they made it that way. Is this more reliable or what is the reason? Hopefully not marketing to allow dealers to charge more money or in our case add some level of muscle exercise to the game 8) I must say I am happy I don't have to do this. I just went through this when I replaced the wheel bearings.

[MattAlpha]

What a great topic to discuss because I discovered that I didn't need to remove the axle nut at all...awesome. Now that I need to buy a few things, I'm going to get a new set of bearings and install them since the axle nuts are off.

I've removed both of the axles and disassembled the joints completely and I found that all four dust covers were never installed the last time this was done. The other problem I found was the outboard (wheel side) CV joint on the driver's side had water in it. The torn boot that caused this project to be undertaken was on the passenger's side tranny CV joint. The corrosion inside doesn't seem that bad but I'll default to you guys to let me know if it really does need to be replaced.

Here are some pictures:

Passenger side axle looking at the CV joint with the torn boot.


Passenger side of the tranny (I thought that maybe the dust covers just got stuck and had popped off the joints. Not the case).


Passenger side CV joints disassembled.


Driver side tire side CV Joint (one that I found some water in the boot).


Joints removed, the rust is evident. I wire brushed everything and it is a bit pit in the areas that were rusted, but I think I can still use it. I'm not sure about the joint though.


The driver's side CV Joints disassembled. The tire side one is the upper joint in the picture.

So I have two separate issues right now.

I haven't called yet, but the Pelican's new part website doesn't sell the dust covers by themself, but I can buy an individual CV Joint.

Thank you for your advice in advance,
Matt

[MattAlpha]

Here are a few more pictures of the water damaged CV joint's components. I have not tried to clean up the corrosion yet. All I have done is wiped off the grease.








-Matt

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Hi Mark,
I will be doing axle swap to larger Carrera axles on my SC later this spring. I sure would like to borrow that lovely 32MM 3/4" socket and extension when I do.
Thanks for the nut size info, so now I'll need to find a 30MM socket, albeit in 1/2" drive.
By the way, have missed you at the Sunday Cars and Caffeine the last several times. Hopefully we'll have a nice day for April's event, which by the way is on the second Sunday, due to Easter.
Thanks,
Grant

Grant, now that I completed a torn boot replacement this weekend, you're welcome to borrow it. I will try to make it to the April's 2nd Sunday event and bring the socket, extension and bar. Things have been crazy busy at work and I have missed the last several in spite of plans to attend.

[Gunter]

Inspect the races for galling right in the grooves where the balls run.
The balls are usually good.
If you find galling, you have a choice of getting new CV's plus boots etc. and the cost may come to about the same as rebuild axle shafts.

Determine what type you need for your year:

923-332-037-00-M84 CV Boot w/ flange, 911 non turbo only (mid 1975-84, 1985 with 915.68 Trans)
Brand: Empi [More Info] $9.50

000-043-301-08-M60 CV Boot Kit (boot, flange, grease, circlip, and clamps) (4 per car, sold individually), 911 (1985 w/915.73 Trans through 1989), 911 Turbo (1985-94)
Brand: GKN Loebro [More Info] $10.00


923-332-032-00-M60 CV Joint, 911 (mid 1975-84)
Brand: GKN Loebro [More Info] $82.75

911-332-923-01-M60 CV Joint Kit w/Boot, Inner, 911/911 Turbo (1985-89)
Brand: GKN Loebro [More Info] $80.75


923-332-033-02-M60 Complete Axle w/two CV Joints & Boots 911, 100mm (Jan 1975-early 85), Requires 47mm bolts (included)
Brand: GKN Loebro [More Info] $267.75

911-332-024-15-M60 Complete Axle w/two CV Joints, Boots, and Bolts 911, 108mm (late-1985-89)
Brand: GKN Loebro [More Info] $345.25

[MattAlpha]

Gunter thank you for all of that info. Vi have the four kits and all of the hardware/grease, except for the dust covers that supposed to be installed on the end of each CV joint (they were missing when I removed the axles).

Does anyone know where I can pick 4 of them up?
Thank you,
Matt

[myamoto1]

You need new CVs - your outer races are "galled".

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by MattAlpha

Gunter thank you for all of that info. Vi have the four kits and all of the hardware/grease, except for the dust covers that supposed to be installed on the end of each CV joint (they were missing when I removed the axles).

Does anyone know where I can pick 4 of them up?
Thank you,
Matt

Matt,
When you say "dust covers", are you referring to the metal tin pieces that slip over the end of the cv joint and cover the area between the trans output flange and the cv? . If that's what you mean, they are not made for or needed for the axles you have. You have the 100mm cv joints and the smaller axle. These axles were upgraded in'85 1/2 thru '89models, and have 108MM cvs. Also the outer cv joint is no longer removable as it is friction welded to the axle. Below is link to the kit, showing tin cover for the larger cv joints. The cover tin piece is only used on the inner cv joint on these axles.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 000-043-301-08-M60

[MattAlpha]

Josh,
Thank you for confirming that for me. I'm going to look at my other three more closely now.

Grant,
Thank you for pointing that out! I have other things missing in this car and SAE bolts when it was supposed to be metric so the tin missing fit this pattern. I'm glad that I don't need to have them.

Thank you everyone,
Matt

[myamoto1]

Glad to help. I'm sure I'll get blasted for this (it'll be replaced in the near future - I promise!), but I used some JB weld as a VERY temporary fix on the galling found on one of my CVs. I had expected to replace a few and bought 2 new ones, turned out I needed 3. Had a big event and about 3 hours to switch out the CVs, so I cheated a little. I've put around 300 miles on my fix with no issues so far.

I just started a suspension refresh/upgrade, so they'll get replaced in the process.

[Gunter]

One of the advantages of half-shafts up to '85.5 (without the stub) is that one can switch the CV's in such a way that the balls get a complete new running-surface.
Example: The outer CV would go straight over to inboard without flipping on each axle and without changing rotation of the shaft.
Ignore the groove-ring on the outside of the CV.
I, and others, have done it successfully as long as there is just minor galling like in the picture.
This cannot be done after '85.5 with shafts that have the stub.

I recommend using a zip tie around the small end of the boot!

[cary]

Been meaning to add this. Look at the local VW bug performance shop. Their parts dept. should have the 30mm and 32mm sockets for sale. The one in my tool box is left from my VW days back in high school.
My .02c for today.

[MattAlpha]

Thanks Cary.

Parts should be here Friday so I should have her back togther before the work week begins.

Thanks again to everyone,
Matt