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Kevin Stewart's Avatar
 
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fwiw you will have to us a bump tie rod kit along with the spacers to get what your after, Kevin

Old 04-18-2010, 08:41 PM
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Thx everyone...those pics confirmed it all for me & I also found my 101 book from Wayne AFTER I cleaned my office for my 14 yr olds b-day party yesterday...
Turbo tie rods installed...bump steer spacers next then I will be lowering the car to euro specs...then off for an alignment...
Thx again!
Bob
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:48 AM
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I just did the turbo tie rods and bump steer spacers last week. The steering does feel tighter and better, but the REALLY noticeable improvement is while going over uneven pavement, like for example a cloverleaf with really crappy midwestern pavement multiple-patch-repairs. The car used to really bounce and jerk around in the steering/suspension. Now it's rock solid.
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:04 AM
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Thx Talewinds...did you also do any lowering and/or have you had it aligned yet??
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:18 AM
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Well, here's what I did due to a shoestring budget...
Previous owners have lowered it a little, but I'd like to get another 1" closer to the ground front and rear. Although I preset the new tie rods to match the length of the old ones the toe was WAY out of whack when I installed them. I put it all back together and set the toe somewhere in the ballpark, I then had my local tire place set the front toe correctly, that helped in a big way.
In the long run I want to lower the car a bit more and then have the Porsche specialist do a proper alignment on the car.
Bottom line, I want to monkey with my suspension some more but I only want to pay for an alignment once!
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911pcars View Post
The WM instructions neglect to mention loosening and resetting the steering shaft U-joint on it's splines to reduce any tension between the rack and the steering shaft. Raising the static location of the crossmember and thus steering rack will put this joint under stress. In addition, not loosening the u-joint may make it difficult to move the crossmember and install the rack spacers.
...

Sherwood
Sherwood - can you post (or point to) instructions on checking to see if this was done (by a PO)?

- also how do you know how far to move the U-joint?
Old 04-19-2010, 12:43 PM
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Loosening the ujoint is a matter of getting into the smugglers box next to the gas tank so you can access the stearing shaft linkage. Once in teh smugglers box loosen the ujoint so that when you push the stearing box up to put the spacers in, the ujoint will slide up the splined stearing shaft easily. Once the spacers are installed and the stearing rack is tightened down again, you tighten the ujoint. Either 101 or the Tech Info Center here on Pelican ( I cant remember) details the process out for you.
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruby911 View Post
Loosening the ujoint is a matter of getting into the smugglers box next to the gas tank so you can access the stearing shaft linkage. Once in teh smugglers box loosen the ujoint so that when you push the stearing box up to put the spacers in, the ujoint will slide up the splined stearing shaft easily. Once the spacers are installed and the stearing rack is tightened down again, you tighten the ujoint. Either 101 or the Tech Info Center here on Pelican ( I cant remember) details the process out for you.
+1

I might add that if the steering rack u-joint is pushed up too high, the end of the splined shaft might interfere with the joint and limit steering rotation. This could result in a 100' turning circle or more. Check and confirm. If this happens, shorten the end of the shaft accordingly with a grinding wheel (off the car for neatness).

Sherwood
Old 04-19-2010, 05:46 PM
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I loosened that coupling just below the u-joint in the smugglers box so that there was plenty of play and no binding. When I inserted the spacers under the steering rack I only got about 3/16"-1/4" of upward movement of the splined shaft into the u-joint coupling.
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:59 PM
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Talewinds - that sounds about right.
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1965 356C Outlaw
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Old 04-20-2010, 03:53 AM
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the spacer is a tad less than 3/8" so thats correct...just make sure you have full lock to lock travel when car is back on the ground...
I had my son hop in the car when it was on the ground and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while I looked at the u-joints just to make sure their was no binding...
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911 tweaks View Post
the spacer is a tad less than 3/8" so thats correct...just make sure you have full lock to lock travel when car is back on the ground...
I had my son hop in the car when it was on the ground and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while I looked at the u-joints just to make sure their was no binding...
That's a good point I wanted to add.
Although that splined coupling was loose, there initially seemed to be very little movement after I put the spacers in. I went to the steering wheel and turned it lock-to-lock several times, the steering feel gradually improved and in going back to the smugglers box it appeared that I had gotten more upward movement of the splined shaft.

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06' BMW 'M' Roadster (Wife's car and WAY faster than mine)
Old 04-20-2010, 07:39 AM
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