Interesting link.... "Camber will not cause pull"? Really? The before front camber readings should have caused a pull to the right. Perhaps what was meant to be said was "caster".

I know for the rears the adjustment on the camber does also affect the toe-in. To get the numbers dialed-in takes A LOT of patience!

I was confirming with him on the adjustments to get the numbers that were achievable within the constraints of the adjustments and to focus really on the equal camber numbers...which worked out in the rear, but not in the fronts. The tech demonstrated the adjustments and I saw the numbers changed on the Hunter system. Only possibility left is that it was not calibrated correctly. That is why I am thinking of worn strut or bent strut scenario.

What shop labor time is expected for front strut replacements... 3 hours?

Fender ride height from the ground to the bottom of the center of the bottom of the fender lip? It will be a challenge to find a level ground in San Francisco, but I'll bring a long beam level to confirm. I am not going to the extreme of doing corner weight balancing.

I'll take it to another shop that I know has been trained to work on Porsches and just focus on the front camber adjustment. FYI, this tech had worked on Porsches before.

Is there a general test to check for worn struts?

There is yet a new problem relating to the Sportomatic tranny so I will take it to a shop to have that looked at and possible see if the mechanic with his trained eye can spot something fishy with the front struts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274937045.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274937259.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274937411.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274938657.jpg

You need to take it to a PORSCHE repair shop.

You may have a bent strut, but you need to be SURE nothing is loose.

1. Wheel bearings. With the car jacked up, grab the top and bottom of the tire. Pull the tire and wheel back and forth, there should be NO play.

2. Ball joints. With it still jacked up, place a bar or large screw driver between the a-arm and the bottom of the strut. Prying should not cause movement.

3. Strut inserts. Remove the upper strut attachment. Remove the shock dust shield. Check for loose or bent strut inserts. Move the shock up and down to make sure it is tight and straight.

The "technicians" at most alignment shops never check for such problems.

If all of this is OK you may have a bent strut.

Thanks Gordon for the tips.