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Location: wisconsin
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Engine back in...some issues...
I want to thank folks for their help, I had the motor out of the 930 for the winter to seal up some leaks, and general clean up. Motor/trans back in the car, runs great. The car was generally not enthusiast owned, and there are loose ends I am trying to clear up. If anyone has input on any of the following, I would appreciate it:
1) Tach stopped working. Worked fine prior to engine removal. This one is probably something I miswired. The distrubutor had one wire coming off it, and it would not unclip, so I cut it with the intent of splicing it back together. Well, turns out its a coaxial wire. I spliced it back together. Perhaps the splice is letting in interpherence from the rotor? Don't know...  2) There is a single unidentified wire running next to the oxygen sensor wire, in the area of the CDI. Its a tiny gauge single black wire with a rubber boot, and I can't figure out what it attached to. I wonder if this had anything to do with the air pump (which is long gone)? Does this have anything to do with the tach??? 3) There are two wires coming of the wiring harness, by the wires that attached to the starter. They run down along the transmission, and then the PO cut them. I presume these two wires go to the reverse light switch, as there is nothing hooked up to it. The guage of the wires, though, is pretty thick...and that is throwing me off. The Bentley manual mentions wires going to the speedometer that give info to the engine management system, etc. The pics seem to suggest that these are the wires, but there is no place for them to hook into the speedometer sensor in the trans...??? 4) And the finale, which totally puzzles me. The car, when I bought it, had no Omega Spring on the trans. Car/clutch work fine. Clutch doesn't feel heavier than any other car I have. I bought the Omega spring, and went to put it on... There is NO WAY this thing belongs on here... The clutch arm doesn't have any loops/brackets, supports, where this might attach. The clutch arm look different than all of the ones I see in the manuals. It essentially dead-ends past the adjustment arm, and has a small clip on there. My first impression was that the PO must have broken the end of the arm off...but it doesn't look broken... Is it possible that the PO put on an arm from a different year? A different car??? Any input appreciated .
Last edited by bpu699; 06-01-2010 at 08:36 AM.. |
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06-01-2010, 08:06 AM
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What year is the vehicle?
The green Coax wire is an expensive wire. ($60 from our host). This wire should not be rigged/spliced. This is going to get alittle complicated for you if you are running the stock CDI as the new part is a short wire with a plug on the end and the old one is a long wire that went directly into the 6 pin harness. You can create the connector needed (right where you cut the wire) to plug into the new green wire if you go this route or if you dont want to buy a new wire you can fabricate a connector (male-female) right where you cut the wire.. hope this makes sense. There is a pic of the new wire and a fabricated wire to connect to it on my PMO ITB thread. I use MSD so my wire is green/purple, but you will get the idea... Do you have a bentley? there will be wiring diagrams in that that will allow you to easily identify all the wires in your engine bay. The year of the vehicle will help others help you with these issues.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. Last edited by brads911sc; 06-01-2010 at 08:22 AM.. |
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06-01-2010, 08:16 AM
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It's a 930, didn't they have completely different trannies (4 speeds)?
After some basic searching, it's a 88 930...I have no clue what they ran.
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Mike Bradshaw 1980 911SC sunroof coupe, silver/black Putting the sick back into sycophant! |
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06-01-2010, 08:28 AM
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If its an 88, they wouldnt have the Omega Spring... correct?
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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06-01-2010, 08:54 AM
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Thanks for the input so far guys...
Yes, its an 88 930. Brad, I thought every car post 77 had an Omega spring??? Its odd, the car shifts well without it... In regards to the wire...how did you splice it? What connectors did you use? |
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06-01-2010, 09:20 AM
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They stopped using the Omega after 86 with the intro of the G50. I forgot that this was a 930 where they did use them through 88. Sorry about that misinformation.
I didnt splice mine because I went with an MSD. I ordered a new green wire, then had Barry Hershon install the proper connector on the green/purple MSD wire. I will get the info on the connector that is used on the new green wire. Should be able to buy it and you can recreate.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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06-01-2010, 09:32 AM
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 This is the longer 928 wire, but the 911 wire has the same connector. Electrical This site (www.eagleday.com) has all the various AMP connectors that you would use to build the other end that will plug into the green wire connector. I will try to find out exactly which connector this is... I had mine done by Barry Hershon as part of a Distributor rebuild, recurve, etc.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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06-01-2010, 09:53 AM
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FYI - our host also sells the AMP connector kit ($12) but it's listed under the BMW section.
here's the part # : 1-287-013-003-M14 I had to added to my project list because it was so hard to relocate in the PP catalog.
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Jim Dowty 97 911 Coupe (Forest Green metalic, sunroof, leather) PCA RSR region Insurance chair and Board member Gruppe B #309 |
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06-01-2010, 10:48 AM
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06-01-2010, 12:28 PM
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Guys, thank your for the assistance...
Ronnie, the thread you referenced is the exact arm that is on my car (and it looks different from every other picture I have ever seen ). The top pic in that thread confuses me. I see where the omega spring contacts the clutch arm...but I don't have any opposing post on there for it to compress against?! Is there some other piece the PO removed? Its unclear from that picture...Brad, thanks for the help on the green lead. Not sure how a new lead would help. The old lead enters the wiring harness, and I have no idea where it come out... Would a new lead bypass the wiring harness??? I spliced the original lead back together. As its coaxial, I took the center lead and soldered it back. Then, took the outside coaxial wiring and twisted it together, soldering to the old line. I am not sure why this would ruin its function??? The soldered section is 1cm long, tops... Is there a more "proper way" to splice the two back together? Folks splice coaxial wire together all of the time (think satellite/dvr wiring) and it works fine. Do you guys feel that this splice is the primary problem, or is there just something else I didn't connect??? |
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06-01-2010, 04:31 PM
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The splice might be fine. You could also have issues since that is a special shielded wire. Ill let the experts chime in. I just assumed you wanted to return it to like new condition and not continue with it spliced. Hope this helps.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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06-01-2010, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Hello Brad, The other end of the Omega spring compresses against a heavy duty bracket that bolts to the transmission case - it is hard to see in either of the pics, but you can just make out some of the bracket directly beneath the arm in the 2nd pic. I might still have the part number handy for this as I replaced this bracket last year - or I can look it up for you on the Porsche PET . . . Ronnie |
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06-01-2010, 05:14 PM
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Brad, I would be happy to replace the entire wire, just not sure how to? It enters the wiring harness, and there is no way to replace just it... |
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06-02-2010, 05:24 AM
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What I would do is leave the wiring harness end alone... Buy a male connector and a female connector. Put one connector on each side of the cut you made. Just cleaner than a splice. Were you to ever replace the green wire at the distributor, order the short one for the 911 from our host and then it will be plug and play with what you have done. Just cleans it up...
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. Last edited by brads911sc; 06-02-2010 at 06:23 AM.. |
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06-02-2010, 05:54 AM
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Brad, thats exactly what I want to do... where can I get such connectors??? Are those the ones you guys alluded to for the BMW?
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06-02-2010, 06:21 AM
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The BMW ones look different to me. Hard to tell from a pic. I will go out and look at mine and see if there are markings on them.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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06-02-2010, 06:24 AM
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What I need to do is just splice the 2 loose ends on the wire. I am hoping not to remove the connector on the distributor, as I couldn't get it off in the first place...
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06-02-2010, 06:34 AM
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No. You dont need to touch the wire at the distributor or the wiring harness. You are merely cleaning up the connection at the cut.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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06-02-2010, 06:49 AM
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you have to pull the distrib to replace the green wire part. the female 2 wire AMP connector from the BMW section is the correct part as I just did this fix on my SC. I got mine from Eagleday ($13 + shipping) before I realized I could get it from PP for $12 with free shipping.
splicing will also work if you don't care about having a way to quickly disconnect the distrib. from the CDI
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Jim Dowty 97 911 Coupe (Forest Green metalic, sunroof, leather) PCA RSR region Insurance chair and Board member Gruppe B #309 |
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06-02-2010, 07:00 AM
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Ok...did more reading and searching on here...
According to threads on here, if the green wire is cracked or improperly hooked up, the motor will not run at all - no spark. My motor runs fine through out the rev range... So, does this mean my "splice" is fine... Or can this still be the culprit for the tach not working... |
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06-02-2010, 09:57 AM
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1997 Porsche 911
