Help Dissassembling Ignition Distributor

[enjefriy]

Hi All,

Was in the process of cleaning my ignition distributor on my 911sc 1982, when i realized how much play i had on the distributor shaft.

I am able to lift up on the shaft and suspected that the so called phenolic washer is missing.

My problem is i dont know how to disassemble the distributor, which is a magnetic type.

I have removed the screw in the middle of the shaft and the circlip around it.
Do i simply pry the timer core out. Seems pretty hard, and i dont wanna bend it.

Also even if i have disassembled it, how can i find the replacement parts.
For now i believe i need the phenolic washer. Ps. I did a search but right now i would appreciate a more interactive response as i progress through this. I really don wanna break this thing.

[enjefriy]

also mentioned the phenolic washer, as i've read it from some other post. However i still donno where a phenolic washer is supposed to be installed.

[brads911sc]

these last 100k miles plus... if it were me, Id sent it to Barry Hershon and let him rebuild it.

[pete3799]

Use 2 screwdrivers on both sides of the timer. Rest them against the edge of the dist.
and pry up. Be sure to keep an eye out for the locater pin that's in there.
It's tiny and easily lost.

[enjefriy]

i'd have a problem sending it off.
I'd like a go at it myself if possible
Shows what height it settles at
Above shows how much lift is avail.

[enjefriy]

Is washer missing from this end.
Diagram doesn't really illustrate location of a washer.
Also i am wondering whether a washer would be needed to raise the rotor, or keep it down.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Originally Posted by brads911sc

these last 100k miles plus... if it were me, Id sent it to Barry Hershon and let him rebuild it.

Thats really stellar advice.

Your problem is that you cannot buy any replacement parts as Bosch doesn't have any right now. Barry Hershon (and a few others) have bought quite a few of these in the past and have the only supply of repair/replacement parts to properly rebuild these things.

You would need a new pin to hold the gear on (that must be removed) new phenolic washers, shims, and maybe new bushings (those must be made as Bosch ones are NLA).

[enjefriy]

Originally Posted by pete3799

Use 2 screwdrivers on both sides of the timer. Rest them against the edge of the dist.
and pry up. Be sure to keep an eye out for the locater pin that's in there.
It's tiny and easily lost.

Thanks pete3799,

I Guess what i'll do for now is open it up for cleaning and re-greasing.

[enjefriy]

Hi again,
Anyone out here has any specifications, figures etc handy for these Bosch distributors.
Mine being a 0 237 301 009.
Or what do most folks here check for. Radial, Axial wear, rotor height, etc.

[AlfonsoR]

I have an 89 911, does it have points as well, or is it electronic ignition? Car is running just a tad rough on acceleration. I ordered the Bentley and rotor and cap already. Plugs were changed by PO less than 1000 miles ago.

[enjefriy]

Hi Alfonso,
Mine is the magnetic hall effect type.
I read in some post here somewhere that i should really just check for axial play really,
as any longitudinal play is not a concern so long as the wear pattern on the helical drive gear is centered, and not other signs of run in with the cap and rotor exist.

So with me, i've dissasembled it totally just short of removing the drive gear.
Cleaned it, now reinstalling with engine oil.
All plastic bits intact, springs loaded on the centrifugal weights, and no signs of broken bits inside.

I notice however that the base of the distributor has some holes.

Would it be a bad idea to block them off with Hi Speed Tape (aluminium Tape).
My intent is to prevent ingress of moisture, as it rains buckets in my country.

Or is it a neccessity to have these hole clear.

[AlfonsoR]

Enjefriy,

Thanks for your reply.

I believe the holes are there for "breathing" purposes. If they are at the base, which I think you mean at the bottom of the housing, then moisture should not be much of an issue.

[James Brown]

there is a issue with the seal at the bottom, you need a specal tool to remove and install it to get to the spacers. Not sure you can take out the shaft by yourself.

[enjefriy]

Hi James,
To access this bottom seal, i would need to remove the drive gear by grinding and tapping the lock pin out right?

My restroration was limited, in that i removed all but the main shaft.
I removed/inspected the fly weights and plastic bits.

Since i never had probs with its operation, apart for water ingress, i stopped there.

Next what i'll do is have a go at making it water tight (atleast where rain and engine wash is concerned).

[James Brown]

Yes, tap out the pin in the gear to remove the shaft. However, only Bosch has the parts inside so if you find something, chances are you won't find replacement parts. If everything looks and feels good, I would not go any farther.

[enjefriy]

Cheers James.

I also did a comparison with a known good spare bosch distributor off from a BMW (contactless as well) and it too had the same sort of longitudinal play (up & down, as oppose to side to side play). So after clean up, re-oiling, i sealed up the holes beneath the base of the distributor.

Re-installed, ops check, reset timing, now satis.

I have a new problem now however. Once started, the car idles fine.
When i put the AC, headlights, etc, the car will cut out immediately.
It cuts out as if it was switched off. Not cuts off in a stumbly sort of way, usually associated with a fuel or ignition fault.

So now i'm removing the alternator to have it checked.

I'll check the grounding there, the alternator connections whilst in there.

I believe the problem is linked to when i got rain ingress, which was the reason i started with the distributor removal in the first place.