What's the Best Way to Remove & Install Heat Exchangers?

[Joe Bob]

I agree with above, cut the HEs off. The nuts are not easy to get to.

Use the high end penetrants, heat and TIGHTEN first then back them off. Snapping studs is an expensive fix.

[500_19B]

The dremel method sounds good. I went Len's route and used an oxy-mapp torch and got all 12 nuts off without incident. Mine looked original, so I was nervous. I spent the better part of a week giving the nut a daily soaking with PB Blaster. When removal day came, I tried a couple of nuts without head "just to see". I applied as much force as I dared without going all out and they would not budge. I broke the torch out and then they came off beautifully. You want to focus the heat on the nut and heat it up fast, to minimize heat transfer through the nut.

The studs all look to be in good shape. Although it would be nice to put fresh studs in there, I think the risks of stud removal on an installed motor do not justify it.

[efhughes3]

Originally Posted by sonett43

the best tool for the 13mm nuts is a (1 piece) universal socket, if you use a universal joint (3/8" drive) attached to a 13mm socket, it becomes too deep, so a universal socket is the key, allowed me to get to just about every nut.

Lewis

That may have worked for you. For others, it may just lead to heartbreak. One does not know, until the stud twists into 2 pieces.

[fred cook]

I used a sawzall to remove the bottom portion of the old heat exchangers. Makes it much, much easier to access the nuts holding the flanges to the head. Then its penetrating oil, heat, more heat and sometimes the use of a Dremel cut off wheel to split the old nuts. Patience and good tools are mandatory! Good luck with your project.

[tobluforu]

One other thing, after you have soaked the crap out of them for a few days, tighten just a tad before you start to loosen them. Remember, you must have a certain feel for this, don't use all the force in the world to try to break them free. If it feels like it's not going to budge, stop, apply heat, dremel or what ever and go from there. I did not break one stud on my 72 and used heat on two studs which didn't do a thing so out came the dremel. What works for some, will not work for others.

[cjmurph]

I always learn the hard way..

Do you guys use anti-sieze when re-installing studs?

[richard003@wind]

I did the same as Mr. Cook... and worked well . Apply heat and by the time you put the torch down, Its time to turn, like others have said, its a feel, dont rush them.

[tobluforu]

Originally Posted by cjmurph

I always learn the hard way..

Do you guys use anti-sieze when re-installing studs?

Yes, copius amounts but only on the nuts, not the studs and only the high heat copper stuff.

[BoxsterGT]

There's heat, and then there's an ACETELENE TORCH.

The only real way is to get them glowing red then QUICKLY use the Snappy flex socket while they still are hot. If you do it this way, its easy. Any other way you are wasting your time and will break something, taking much longer to fix. We all learn the hard way and sometimes keep doing it the hard way.

Len

[grizzfan]

Richard003@wind says:

Apply heat and by the time you put the torch down, Its time to turn, like others have said, its a feel, dont rush them.

and BoxterGT says:

There's heat, and then there's an ACETELENE TORCH.

Facinating variety of helpful information & opinions here and I'm laser-locked on using heat, but an acetelene torch, if I'm going to do this job, is probably out of the question.

Will a MAPP-gas torch, w/o oxygen be able to get the various nuts hot enough?

Tom

[500_19B]

I used to have an oxy-acetylene set up in my old place, however, where I am now I just used the small hardware store MAPP & oxygen set up. I would say this was barely enough for the job. Oxy-acetylene would be better for sure. MAPP gas alone might not be good enough. I needed a few of those orange oxygen tanks to get the job done - not necessarily the most economical approach!

[BoxsterGT]

Here's the 1/4 drive version I am referrring to..........



Len

[grizzfan]

As suggested and mentioned later by me, I ordered a couple of cans of AeroKroil that's supposed to be the ticket.

But my neighbor, who has been watching my agony with rusted nuts and bolts, just called and said he was watching the Speed Channel and they had a demonstration of "Locktite Freeze & Release Spray". It has a penetrating oil base but takes the nut down to -40F and works similarly to heat but draws more penetrating oil into microscopic cracks in the rust, etc.

Anybody had good luck with this stuff? I Googled it but can find no local distributors.

Tom

[Danny_Ocean]

Originally Posted by grizzfan

As suggested and mentioned later by me, I ordered a couple of cans of AeroKroil that's supposed to be the ticket.

But my neighbor, who has been watching my agony with rusted nuts and bolts, just called and said he was watching the Speed Channel and they had a demonstration of "Locktite Freeze & Release Spray". It has a penetrating oil base but takes the nut down to -40F and works similarly to heat but draws more penetrating oil into microscopic cracks in the rust, etc.

Anybody had good luck with this stuff? I Googled it but can find no local distributors.

Tom

I suspect it's a marketing gimmic (-45F ? ) and the car shows on Speed are sponsored by the manufacturers of the products, but...can't hurt to try. AeroKroil has worked very well for me.