What jobs are MUST DO with engine out?

[rob911]

What are the MUST DO jobs while I have an '84 3.2 carerra lump on an engine stand? I have searched the archives but after reading almost 100 threads I have a list to last me months.

I will attend to my oil leaks of course.

Guys who have head their engines out, what did you do AND what did you forget to do while you had the chance?

posted a longer entry earlier, hope to get a reply this time.

[davis911s]

Rob here is what I would do ( actually I am doing it this week)
Replace
the crakcase breater hose- they get old and crack
oil breather seal
thermostat o ring
oil cooler seals 3
check to see if valve covers are true- piece of glass
rear main seal (behind pressure plate)
pulley seal
oil pressure switch

and possibly
cam tensioner housings too

Might as well do it all since the engine is out.

Shawn

[yelcab1]

For me, this is the list.

1. All oil leaks (main seals, chain housing seals, oil thermostat housing, oil housing
2. Valve adjustment
3. Clutch (if has been 20K miles or more)
4. clean the engine shroud
5. tune up and spark plugs
6. check and tighten intake manifold and exhaust manifold
7. Check and tighten head nuts, cam tower nuts and bolts.

[Superman]

Don't forget the Oil Thermostat O-ring, like I did!

[Dave Bouzaglou]

do not forget the:
foam engine insulation pad
trans guide tube seals
inspect guide tube and actuation arm for excessive wear
inspect clutch for same- we usually start with a new one
inspect engine and trans mounts- (its funny how people overlook this important item)
inspect axles- boots and joints
inspect rear shocks
inspect heater control valves/ cables for operation and condition
inspect wiring for starter
inspect throttle rod and rubber connector at torque tube
change out trans lube
You are installing a motor with a lot more torque than the previous lump. So it behooves you to spend a little more time and money checking and replacing what may be needed.
Good Luck

[stlrj]

If it were my engine, I would pull the intakes, reseal the manifold gaskets with GMS sealer...probably the most commonly overlooked and critical areas of lost performance. (tightening is not enough!)

Cheers,

Joe Garcia
86 Carrera

[rob911]

Thanks guys, looks like I will be busy.

For sure I will attack all possible oil leaks. The tech articles here seem to cover most of what has been mentioned.

Dave Bouzaglou "inspect heater control valves/ cables for operation and condition" Good Call - mine are rusted to bits.
"

Joe Garcia - not sure I have the confidence to disturb the FI system yet, unless it all comes off as a single unit.

This is my first "big job". Once I get it all back together I may drop the engine again and do all the "tweaks" and detailing.
Guess I need to invest in some factory manuals, what I'd give to have a fiche reader.

[89911]

82 3.2? Thought the first year was 84.

[nhromyak]

Check/update your Head Temp Sensor from the one wire to two wire type (porsche tech bulletin somewhere...).

Check your transmission vent make sure it is facing (venting) forward of the car. Causes leaks if facing backward.

[Jim Sims]

Check fuel lines, especially seals and rubber sections. Jim

[jabb]

You can do the FI stuff just take some before pictures some notes and carefully label everything and you should be OK

[rob911]

Originally posted by 89911
82 3.2? Thought the first year was 84.

oops typo, of course it is an '84

[rob911]

Originally posted by Jim Sims
Check fuel lines, especially seals and rubber sections. Jim

Jim

Have thought about this one, I think mine is the one piece fuel line from tank to engine bay. I am considering getting replacement (non-OEM) high pressure fuel line form a hydraulic shop, then rre-fitting it in sections for future ease of replacement.

Any smaller "link pieces" I will replace with OEM - thanks

[BK911]

This might be a little more than you're looking for, but might come in handy someday. It's Plagiarized from an early Mr. Kunz post. Have fun!!

Hello
On 3,2 allways check following:
Temperaturesensor. If one pin socket throw out ( little time bomb )
TDC sensor and Rev sensor for dirt and distance to flywheel ( 0,7 - 0,8 mm ). On early flywheels check that little magnet for TDC if it come loose. ( very rare )
Check for oilleaks coming from the oilpressuresensors, vent tower or thermostat.
Check/replace Crank seals.
Fuellines ( get old and get cracks )
Check big hard ( bras looking ) vaccumline going from the throttle body sweping to the driver side vacuum assist booster. there is an very small rubberpiece tendency to crack direct into the step down.
Also an eye on the other smaller vacuumlines.
Retighting nuts from the manifoldrunner
Rubbermountet aircleanerhousing somtimes rubber crack.
Check ignitionwires and distributor. One drop engine oil into the axle.
Check cam oilfeed lines. If not suportet look very close where the thin line is soldered into the eye.
Clean all electric sockets and spray special electronic anti corosion on it. Wathch out the DME connectors have an rubbergasket. Fall out sometimes or stick on the wrong end.
On 915 tranys look very close to conector from the starterwire. Can corode away
Also the oilpressorsensor for the instrument gets sometimes the "wrong" conector. Still that with black round housing and click pin ?
Check Exhaust for cracks direct where the tube joins. ( Easy to weld )
Sometimes you will find an hole abouve the tube junction.
Check fuellines on the car. Engine sided rubber. Then joint near the trany cone and last under the frontaxle.
Check enginerubbermounts. Make an "swap" as the left side gets more force over the years.
Check all oil lines espicialy those short ones in front going into the oilcooler.
Check the TOB guding tube on the transmission. If sligtly asymetrical worn you can rotate. Check incoming shaft seal there. On 915 check trany oilcooler and leverage. If you had a bad syncro then renew.
Repack the half shafts and rotate them in opesite turn direction.
On G50 check the pressure hose and the unit for wetness.
If you have AC then check the carrier. If you have an hi milage ( 200 000 mls ) i would renew the cam feed line and the oil pressure sensors previous to failure. ( Oilines sometimes need an 40000 mls intervall ). If it gets on you later the labour will hit you.
Don´t throw away the old parts as what you have you will not need ( Whis I could say this about my backaccount ). Also it is very nice to have an date matching parts for those last wining touch at coming concurs ( When you both get retired )
Also if you had any problems, now it is time to detect it.
Grüsse

[KTL]

Rob,

Make sure to support those axle shafts (especially if you're not planning on repacking) or you will be replacing the boots for sure. Doesn't take long for a hanging shaft to tear a boot open.

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Addition:

Usually the throttle linkage bushings are worn and sometimes the lever has cracks.

Grüsse