How to install a cold start valve?

[Blue83Cab]

Hi All,

How hard is it to replace a cold start valve? I have been trying to find posts using the search tool and have really only found post on how to determine if the valve is faulty.

Is it easy to get access to? Someone mentioned that it is easier to drop th engine when you change it, is this true? If so, any idea on the expected cost from a decent shop?

Also, if you know of any books that highlight this process I would be very interested.

Thanks in advance for the assistance.

[TibetanT]

Actually, replacing the cold start valve is easy once the engine is out of the car.

The real problem, that I know of is it is hard to access with the engine in the car since it sits behind the CIS system near the throttle housing. With that said, if you can safely remove a lot of the components in the way, and maybe lower the engine somewhat, without fulling removing the engine and having it supported safely, it might give you enough room.

If it were me, I would remove the engine and get some other stuff done while it is out. I would be afraid that I could not get certain fuel lines reconnected properly if the engine were still in the car, and that would be a real hazard in the long run.

I am no expert, so hopefully others with this experience will chime in with their respective method of R/R of the cold start valve.

What year car/engine are we talking about here?

[TibetanT]

LOL! Never mind....I just now registered the year/make by your handle Blue83Cab.

Yeap, like me, with an '83 3.0L engine w/CIS...take the engine out of the car to be safe and sure. Just my .02 cents. Hope this helps.

[azasadny]

You can replace the cold start valve by doing a "partial engine drop" which is well documented on several threads here. The partial drop lowers the engine enough to get to the back of the engine, near the firewall, to reach the cold start valve's mounting hardware.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Blue83Cab

Hi All,

How hard is it to replace a cold start valve? I have been trying to find posts using the search tool and have really only found post on how to determine if the valve is faulty.

Is it easy to get access to? Someone mentioned that it is easier to drop th engine when you change it, is this true? If so, any idea on the expected cost from a decent shop?

Also, if you know of any books that highlight this process I would be very interested.

Thanks in advance for the assistance.

Blue,

I have successfully removed and installed CSV several times without doing any engine partial drop simply because I was able to reach it. Secret: I have skinny forearms. Of course it is a lot easier with the engine out of the car. After removing the CIS intake rubber boot, you could test and find out if you could reach the two (2) mm allen bolts holding the CSV. If not, do a partial drop like many have done to make room for access.

I have used some gizmo that might help you do the removal and test conveniently. BTW, once you dropped the 4-mm allen wrench in the backside of the motor, you'll be lucky to find it again with the engine in place. So this was my solution.......tie a nylon string to retrieve it!!!


After you have successfully removed the CSV with bruised forearms (???) you could test the CSV behind or in front of the engine. So how do you bring the CSV out in the open? I used extension wires and fuel line. See pic below.


Few months ago, the local Porsche (dealer) shop quoted me 12-hour labor for engine removal/installation of a '92 964 car which I found to be too much. Even at an 8-hour job by a shop will cost you atleast $800 minimum. A good shop would probably charge you 3 - 4 hours with a partial drop checking your CSV.

If you decide to tackle this job, I'll be more than happy to lend you these gadgets.

Tony

[labdag]

hi Tony, great write up as usual. i was able to swap out my CSV with engine in (no drops/partial). but for the heck of me I cant get the hex screw in on the right of CSV when facing rear of car. it took about an hr to remove it but still struggling with aligning that screw into the intake body.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by labdag

hi Tony, great write up as usual. i was able to swap out my CSV with engine in (no drops/partial). but for the heck of me I cant get the hex screw in on the right of CSV when facing rear of car. it took about an hr to remove it but still struggling with aligning that screw into the intake body.

Labdag,

If you have access to the CSV, there is another problem you have to overcome. And that is visual. Working blind is not natural. There are new tools in the market today which were not available 10 years ago. And that is the remote scope (endoscope) that you could attach to your phone or IPad. Plus they are not that expensive.

I am getting one too because my eyesight is not as good as when you were much younger. The Bosch ID # is so small, that I need a magnifying lens to read it. The remote scope will surely make this job much easier.

Tony

[labdag]

Tony, Excellent suggestion. You're right on the money. my eye sight is not that good either. I have a 6in face mirror (the one that magnifies a bit) ducktape to the firewall to help me see plus some LED lights. It helped with removal but another story for installation. as you suggested and makes sense, I'll order one of those endoscope. its needed for these cars. while thats being shipped i might try something else just to amuse myself. I'll try to get a string around the hose right below the CSV and string it all the way over the CIS rubber both. I'll hold it with my right hand and try to catch the screw with my left hand while pulling on the string to help align the CSV holes with intake box. it sounds good on paper but i'll see what happens.

thank you again for all the help on this and other subjects.

[boyt911sc]

I have another trick to share with you regarding installation of the mounting bolts for CSV. But have to locate the pictures. BTW, did you test the CSV before installation? How could you tell if it is good and spraying atomized fuel? You don’t want to find out later that it is defective after all the trouble you had installing it.

Tony

[labdag]

hi Tony, that string thing was all string theory.. wasnt too practical. I tested the cvs before installing, nice spray pattern when applying voltage. Continuing, a friend of mine came over with a endoscope (i order one from amazon, arriving friday) which helped a great deal. We realized that the mount holes werent aligned with the air box holes. The mount was still connected to the air hose feeding from auxiliary air valve, ect. To sort this out I loosen the end which is clamped onto the aux air valve and thats all it took, everything lined up. this was joy. I buttoned up everything and started to car. fire up right away (didnt do this in a long time)... BUT shutoff after a couple seconds. I noticed it was running lean. Guess what? after looking more carefully behind the engine I noticed a the O-Ring for the mount was sitting on the engine...LOL.. my air leak. I have to take out everything again. I'll get it done by end of week but now i'm getting good at this. The message if that there's many ways to skin a cat (or replacing the csv) and get an endoscope to help you see what your doing especially if your sight is not as good anymore.. I'm still having fun