Procedure Question on Polishing Fuchs

[arbita1]

I haven't really been able to find the answer to this in the search engine.

I'm planning to start refinishing my fuchs in a couple days or so. I've been buying the supplies I need to do this.

The lips on the wheels are already polished (although they are dull). See below:



Since the anodizing is already removed, can I simply polish them with tripoli and white rouge using buffing wheels? Or do I still need to sand? And if so, what grit should I start with? Can I start with a finer grit than normally?

Everything I found in the search deals with removing anodizing first and starting from scratch.

[silverc4s]

Matt, If you only want to polish the non-anodized lip, I would just mask the anodized area for protection, then go ahead and polish.
Are you going to do anything with the black section?

[ttweed]

Originally Posted by arbita1

Since the anodizing is already removed, can I simply polish them with tripoli and white rouge using buffing wheels? Or do I still need to sand? And if so, what grit should I start with? Can I start with a finer grit than normally?

YMMV. It depends on what condition the surface is in and what kind of finish you are striving for. If you are just looking to brighten up the already polished area, then simply buffing with compounds will do the job. If you are striving for a perfect mirror finish and there are any deep scratches in the existing surface, you may find that you need to sand to remove them in a reasonable amount of time. What grit you have to start with will depend on how deep the scratches are and how much patience you have. Once the deepest scratches are leveled, then you move to progressively finer grit paper to remove the sanding scratches, ending with 1500-2500 grit, then apply the rubbing and buffing compounds to finish.

BTDT, and have since just sent all my wheels out to a pro and saved my fingers for writing the check.

TT

[Jdub]

From your post I am not clear on what anodizing remains, if any.

If you want only to polish the lips, then start with Mother's or equiv. If you are unhappy, go to no heavier than 600 grit wet. Then try the Mother's. If unhappy, go back to 400 wet; 600 wet, then Mother's.

Key is not to introduce scratching where there isn't any. And remember, the darker the cloth with polish on it the better. Heat via vigorous energy of buffing removes the outer layer (microscopic) as a black film.

As to masking to prevent other areas from polish, if the other areas are anodized you needn't worry. If the other areas are not anodized, you will need to be judicious in application. If you are using a power tool, have a care!

Finally, I know you did not ask, but a chroming shop can strip anodizing in minutes, but you must be with them at the stripping tank and drop the wheel in for < 1 minute, check, then repeat if the anodizing is not fully stripped. Check by rubbing Mother's on the previously anodized surface - the difference is pretty obvious.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by silverc4s

Matt, If you only want to polish the non-anodized lip, I would just mask the anodized area for protection, then go ahead and polish.
Are you going to do anything with the black section?

I am repainting the black areas (with either Rustoleum 7777 satin black or Duplicolor Black).

I was going to start by scuffing down the wheels with a 3M light rust remover wheel (per the Refinishing Fuchs for Dummies thread).

Then polish the lips (trying to avoid any sanding if I can).

Then mask and paint the centers black with some intermediate sanding (1,000 grit) between coats.

I don't believe there is any anodizing left on the wheels.