Front wheel well
 

There were large dents at the rear of the front wheel well, these areas have been cut out and beaten into shape and refitted.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1354242160.jpg

Well it's been a while.. I see I have missed a few pic's from last year or two.
Front flares now fitted, also the small piece to match early indicator, flare, bumper. This went better than the rear.
Front and Rear RSR bumpers also fitted for trial.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1430795186.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1430795203.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1430795218.jpg

Nice work Brent! Where did you get the wheels modified? Elite? Arrow? Would like to tackle something similar.

Chris

Hi Chris,

Yeah I made through Elite Wheels, I built them years ago, they have done probably 3-4 sets since then now they know how :)
I had a spare set, just sold them last week!.
The hardest part is the 16" donor wheels.. if you have those then you're pretty set... what sizes do you have?
What modekl style are you wanting them to fit?

Brent

Looking good Brent, glad to see your still going on this, this car is going to look hot!

Slow progress with limited time to spend on it...
Dropped too sand blasters today for all over blast and then round to painter for epoxy everywhere and underseal. Will be great to have in one colour for a change.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446602452.jpg

Brent, are you sure you want to have the car sand blasted? Sand blasting generate a lot of heat and can warp the steel panels. Dry ice, soda or other media blast will not deform the sheet metal.

Keep on the good work.

Looking good! Slow and steady.

Hi Hugo,
Yeah I have been anti this for that reason and a few others, I was guided by my panel and paint people so as to make sure I had a guarantee for the finished product.
They are going to skip the bonnet and roof, albeit it a very light skim, because of the metal guards etc they are happy. The blaster is very experienced with cars..... time will tell tomorrow I guess :)

Good then, I just want to be certain you were aware of the potential risks.

If I had to do it again, I would probably go with dry ice blasting just because of the residue. My car is still ''losing'' soda from time to time. This stuff (sand included) goes everywhere, even places paint don't go, and you will find some for a while !

Please correct me, but I didn't think that dry ice or soda blasting did anything to rust? Or is that just heavy rust?

Yes you a right. Dry ice blasting will only remove surface or light rust. You need something more abrasive for deep rust.

Hi, I had a body, fenders, hood, including many other pieces stripped by 'Redi-Strip' Home Page Redi-Strip is from the US and has numerous franchises throughout N/Americahttp://www.redistripco.com/#!about/c3t3

Redi - Strip submerges the complete body, including any thing such as an engine block.

When picking the body etc up, I was quite amazed as it looked as it had been chromed. It was in fact just the original tin looking as if it had been polished. When back at home I first sanded everything with 120, used a paint prep and them sprayed everything with an epoxy primer. Epoxy primer drys to a hard finish and it 'sticks' to the metal like an epoxy glue would. It completely seals everything and it will remain like that for years if just sprayed and then parked.

The big plus over an etching primer is that you can do bodywork, including using any fillers. You then just have to respray the repair areas. When the body work is finished you then use whatever the paint brand's recommended repaint system is.

Over a couple of decades I've complete six ground off restorations and I'm particle to PPG. There are, as you know, numerous other quality brands such as Du Pont, Sikkins, Glasurit ect. E.G only...Ferrari, Lambo, McClaren and numerous other high end cars are painted with a PPG line. (as a matter of interest 2/3's of all cars are painted with a PPG line)

Having done what you are doing a few times, I would like to compliment you on your work. It's looking very good!

It's blasted
 

Thanks for your comments.
Dropped into the blaster today to hand over some $$$, car was finished and looks great.
Painter rang me this afternoon after receiving and he is very happy, wants to get it in epoxy within 24hrs! Exciting.

Sand Blasted pic's
 

These are the right way up :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446698081.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1446698107.jpg

Just as a matter of interest ;Redi Strip
Old steel must first be cleaned of rust, paint, filler and other dirt and contaminants. The stripping process starts by baking the part for 8 hours at 800°F. Warping does not occur because the temperature changes are very gradual. Following baking, the part is submerged in a hydrochloric acid solution. This removes any remaining residue. Next, the part takes a quick dip in a neutralizer bath to wash off the acid solution. The cleaned, chemically stripped piece is then coated with a water soluble oil to inhibit any surface corrosion until the part is e-coated.




E-Coating:


Following chemical stripping, the part proceeds into a wash to remove the water soluble oil and prepare the part for coating. After washing, the part is immersed in zinc-phosphate which is a rust inhibitor. The part is then dipped in a vat of PPG epoxy primer, which is electrostatically applied. The electrocoat bath consists of 80-90% deionized water and 10-20% primer solids. The deionized water is the carrier for the primer solids. The primer solids consist of resin and pigment. Resin in the primer provides corrosion protection, durability and toughness. Pigment in the primer provides color and gloss. During the electrostatic dip process, the thickness of the primer on the part is regulated by the amount of voltage applied to the part. Once the coating reaches the desired film thickness, the part will no longer conduct the electrical charge and the accumulation of the primer on the part is completed.

After leaving the coating vats, the part is sent to the bake oven. The bake schedule is about 45-60 minutes (or until well done), with part temperatures at approximately 375° F.:

Car looks fantastic. As for Dipping, I wish we had this option in the states. I think there may be one Comapny but I do t know who it is.

It's now fully coated in Satin Black Epoxy and undersealed.
Now for the process of putting it back together.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447544450.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447544483.jpg

Subscribed... really nice work!

Hi Brent great work, that will be a beast on your gravel roads I was out your way in 2009 doing the silver fern rally what a fantastic place and the most hospitable people you could wish to meet, I am doing a similar project which has also been dipped, it does make the task much easier should have done that when we built the car for the silver fern.keep up the good work.