A friend of mine has started his own business doing vapour blasting, I saw a picture of a gearbox he had done, looked awesome so I decided to get mine done. And a few other parts as well, front hubs, gear shift rods....
Before
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447916404.jpg
And after:
He had to give it a light media blast because it was so inpregnated and aged.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447916462.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447916491.jpg

So this is what approx 12hrs on a wire wheel looks like :eek: This is almost two cars I think.... will drop them to be Yellow Zinc plated tomorrow.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1447916617.jpg

Brent. Looks killer mate. As clean as Trans looks I wonder if it wouldn't be good to spray some clear on that alum so it doesn't start sucking dirt, grease ect from road. Factory used than yellowish chemical to give a sealed surface.

That looks amazing!

Yes I have now coated it with some special clear stuff that the Vapour Blasting guy gave me.. it's taken two days to dry and I think it's still not quite dry!.
Very happy with how it came out, it's going to make the motor look pretty average :( Will revisit that situation once I have it going and on the road though with a future upgrade :)

Yellow Zinc hardware
 

Picked up my box of hardware today... looks a lot better! Not so convinced about the spring plates... they said because the had been sand blasted they would be dull.
Have sorted them out the best I could at the moment, will become a lot easier once I fit off the suspension and Brakes in coming weeks.
Typical though, found another ice-cream container of bits to be done, will clean them up this week and get in to be plated.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448598493.jpg

Yes that is the results of sand blasting. You can sand them smooth w something like a 2" Scotchbright pad and refinish for better results. Or tumble them.

Brake lines and 23mm Master Cyclinder
 

About time I added some more pic's, have been a little focused on another projetc so limited time.
Fitted fron Alloy cross member along with new Fuel lines (Thanks Len), 23mm master cyclinder, 10mm rack spacers to assist with bump and clearance of rack boots and Reservoir bottle feed line custom.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458176820.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458176863.jpg

I purchased the brake line kit and bent the lines up, was actually easier that I thought, rear was a little harder for some reason.

Rear T-bars and indexed
 

Read a number of posts about this and did seem a little daunting.... but it really makes sense when you're doing it.
I'm going for a pretty low stance for the car, I managed to get the Left at 24.5 and Right at 24.4degrees... time will tell where I go from there. I was amazed at our many combinaions you could do to get different results... I ended go back to the left a second time to get it right. Just keeping turning the inside or outside at different soplines and you will acheive your majic number.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458177503.jpg
Have also got most items through the tunnel now, just Handrake cables and Heater cables which look easy compared to some of the other items.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458177540.jpg

Front A-arms...
 

Now this is where I got a bit stuck, these should be the easy ones :)
T-bars fitted easy, installed A-arm to vehicle, I had originally indexed these when installing the rubber bush's, 21deg front mount and 15degree rear mount. They lined up pretty good, I have tightened them all up but damm they feel stiff to move. I have read a lot about stiction or friction of the a-arm and think they should move more freely... obivously some of the other designed bush's have zero friction... but rubber not so. People also mention that the rubber adds to the torsion affect as it twists.

I'm not massive but I'm putting considerable force/effort to move the a-arm up or down.
This is perhaps the way they are for Rubber bushings when brand new?
Or... I have a co-linear alignment issue between front and rear bushing.. this would be bad :), I hope to disconnect the front mount and see if this makes a difference...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458177879.jpg

Front Struts and hubs
 

I have had the Front and rear struts serviced to spec's and I refurbed the paint in John Deere green. Just finished re-packing new bearing and seals to the hubs and installed to the strut.
I raised the front spindles 19mm? and also added a support plate as I'm fitting adjustable steering tie-rods.
These bits are screaming at me to be fitted but really want to sort out my sticky a-arms before adding to the issue.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458178454.jpg

The theory behind rubber bushings is different from other types like heim joints. Those (if teflon lined) have lots of static and some kinetic friction but no spring rate. Rubber bushings move by twisting and therefore have nearly no friction but lots of spring rate. You want to minimize friction in the suspension so this is good. The spring rate just adds to the torsion bar rate so there's no real downside other than deflection under cornering loads which is the price for isolation from harshness.

Refurbed pedal box installed
 

Had rebuilt a lot of the parts some time ago but was time to assemble and fit to car, especially with the new master cyclinder and new longer push rod to accomodate travel.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458178965.jpg

Thanks Flieger.. I hoped you may have replied :)
Ok so it sounds reasonable that it's springing rather than friction which is good.
Will have a look to see if i can make it a bit better but not concern myself too much yet, if anything this should help make it stiffer in the front intially.
As I have no baseline to set my torsion bar adjusters at would you know the approximate angle for the a-arm to be set at... aiming at between Euro and race height.
It's not a major to change front as you know but getting it close first time will assist down the track :)

Can you explain the idea of raising the front spindle 19mm and how that plays into Allignment and ride height you mention above etc?

I actually think I raised them 30mm now I think about it... I'm running 17" wheels so won't have a issue with them hitting the rims.
I don't fully understand the technical benefits but it helps to keep the factory angles etc where possible, trying to keep the A-arm just below Horizontal and the steering arms horizontal is a key in most setups. Will also reduce Bump steer, which would definitley have been an issue for me with big and wide wheels plus running lower that Euro ride heights.

I'm sure others can comment with more detail than me.

Have fitted Front brakes, I'm using 996TT front and rear calipers and rotors, had some adaptors made up to mount caliper to SC Front and rear Hubs. Also using adaptors on fronts so the 17" custom Fuchs clear the Calipers.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459751633.jpg

Front center oil cooler
 

I had this Oil cooler made for me in the size retro to the RSR Oil cooler back in the 70's, -16an fittings on cooler then joined to 30mm Hose ends from Elephant Racing.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459751763.jpg

Front oil lines
 

I purchased some of the Steel Braided line with Orange zinc Oil line as used in the RSR cars from Elelphant Racing as well has the -16 and 30mm hose ends. Had the -16AN fittings crimped on first so I could fit then cut the lines at correct length to then have the metric fittings crimped on.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459752012.jpg
I also shortened the Factory hard lines back a little to get the angles better, -45mm from one and -70mm from the other. Bit of any arse to get the nut done up but if you do the shorter one first it works ok.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459752102.jpg
To get the oval hole I drilled two 45mm holes apart from each other then joined the two holes with the angle grinder.
I have now got some rubber hose to wrap around the hole to protect the hose's.

I decided to clean up the hard lines to brass and leave, I know they will discolour etc over time but I like the look of them this way.
I used 180 grit sandpaper intially to get the bulk of it off, some people recommended scotch brite, I would have been there for weeks!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459752314.jpg
Once both done I fitted to thermostat for better locating then used a rivnut gun to install a couple of nuts so I could use Bolts. (I have not used a rivnut gun much before, they are soooooo cool!, I don't know why I have never purchased one).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459752409.jpg
I have all the rubber hoses to go around pipes, will fit these when I finally put lines on for good... this is just a interim fitment so I could mount my front cooler.